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  3. Tinkering with Tasmota sensors
Wiring Samotech SM308-S into light fitting
F
Hi Smart Home Community. I have used a Sonos inline WiFi switch to make one of my light fittings smart, but it requires a hard reset for WiFi changes, plus it isn't zigbee compatible, which means I can't use the Hue app to control it with the rest of the lights. To that end I bought a Samotech SM308-S as it is recommended as the better than the Sonos equivalent. I am however not exactly sure how to wire it in. The manual is available here Can anyone help me by clarifying which ports I need to use, and whether I should be using the live or switched live line for live etc. I will be keeping using standard switches for a while, although hope to upgrade to tap dials once I have all the fittings upgraded. Thanks
Hardware
DIY HomeKey locks via Reactor
therealdbT
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Hardware
Scene Controllers -- What are you using?
toggledbitsT
A recent thread on supporting the ZRC-90 Z-Wave scene controller got me to wonder, what does everybody use and like? I'll start... oh, and no dashboards. I want to hear from you all about dedicated scene controller devices. Dashboards and apps are great to a point, but my experience is that higher WAF is achieved with (a) a dedicated device (b) in a known location (c) with predictable functions and (d) no extra steps to operate (just walk up to it and push a button -- same effort as a light switch/dimmer). She's not wrong. It's a pain to unlock the phone, find the app, open the app, find the device, tap the device, when you can just walk across the room and push a button. Bonus points for something that can be labeled readably (low WAF for stuck-on tape/thermal labels). I have a ZRC-90 and it's great, but it was temperamental to get working on Vera, and wasn't smooth sailing when it made the move to Z-Wave JS either. A couple of include/exclude cycles were needed to get it fully working on both. Since then, I've done a battery change, and while the buttons work as reliably as ever, the device continues to report the old battery level despite having a measurably fresh battery for over a year now. But I would still recommend it. I have a Hank 4-button that is probably the best and most reliable battery-operated scene controller I have ever used. It's small and unobtrusive, so it lives on a lamp base in our living room and controls the room's mood lighting. I'm not sure they're still available. RIP. I just ran across the Minoston MR40Z on Amazon, and I may try one of those. It looks like an installed (in-wall) Decora switch, but the buttons are actually a removable remote that you can pull off the wall and take to the couch. No line power required. Kinda cool. Maybe a good Hank replacement. But, I've never heard of this manufacturer before, and the concern is always "will I be able to buy more/replacements in one/two/five years?" Among the wired controllers, the Zooz ZEN32 seems to be the most popular modern unit. I like it, but the LEDs are too small for my aging eyes to discern their color in daylight -- they are pin-head sized. Four of the five buttons are too small to label, so low WAF. When I started my Z-Wave network, I used the Leviton four-button scene/zone controllers (VRCS4 and VRCZ4), and these are still all over my house. They're glitchy first-gen Z-Wave stuff (Vizia RF+ actually, so compatible but with proprietary features that aren't usable). They're now discontinued for Z-Wave. Leviton's newer units are WiFi, so if I go that route, it's HomeKit via Home Assistant for those. During the pandemic lock-downs, I built a touch-screen scene controller using an Adafruit PyPortal. It had screens with 1 to 8 labeled, colorable soft buttons that could either perform a device function (i.e. publish to MQTT) or take you to another screen, so it was the love-child of scene controller and dashboard. Wife found it agreeable. But it was just a prototype. Memory limitation of the device was an issue because the PyPortal is really an inexpensive teaching device with a big load of Circuit Python overhead, and the graphic display needs a lot of RAM, so it was severely limited. I'm sure it could work out with the right micro and programming closer to the bare metal. Packaging and powering would also need to be addressed. And, at the end of the day, while "cute," it doesn't seem like something I would want to sell with the house if we ended up moving some day. So, I'm interested in what others are doing and using, or more specifically, what your significant others are comfortable with and willing to use.
Hardware
20 amp smart physical switch (to control Infratech heater) - preferable to be outdoor rated, but any
O
Hi all, I'm looking for a 20 amp (minimum) smart switch (physical, so as to either tap switch or remote/Alexa/HomeKit/etc) so that I can control several outdoor Infratech heaters (220V). If they're outdoor rated, even better. Thanks.
Hardware
WiFi camera with scrub playback
Z
I have Wyze cameras and they’re mostly great but would like to find an IP camera that allows scrubbing on playback. Any recommendations?
Hardware
Hubitat Elevation C-Series Controllers
LibraSunL
Welcome to our HE users! This new Q&A section is for you...
Hardware
LEDVANCE
O
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Hardware
Water Flow Meter & Shutoff
B
Hello - I'm building a new home with zwave throughout. I want to install a flow detection shutoff, and flow meter for three different areas - a pool autofiller, irrigation system, and the home usage. I'd like to be able to detect any leaks in the system, as well as see the flow/usage by each area. What would you recommend?
Hardware
chine version of homeypro to convert 433 to IR,wifi,Bluetooth,866,..?/
C
hello i am searching for a universal hub that takes my 433 remotes signals and repeats them 433mhz or converts them into bluetooth, wifi, IR, z-wave etc…basically into all the other signals. so my 433mhz remote becomes a universal remote. it should have an app to configurate, maybe a learning function as well i belive the homey pro can do that but it costs like 400$ …right? so is there a cheap “china” product that works like that for at least 433 into IR, bluetooth, wifi there are so many chinaproducts and i cant figure out which can do which trick !/ this for example https://de.trck.one/redir/clickGate.php?u=Ha2Rd3xX&m=1&p=9yUI69TI8b&t=kLf5673Z&st=&s=&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.techpunt.nl%2Fde%2Fhomey-bridge.html%3Fgclid%3DCj0KCQiA9YugBhCZARIsAACXxeJvViv59ieDen9zOXTP1jhc_OisKQxPlCZOJsPGX20nWo7UROROuJcaAix5EALw_wcB&r=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hardwareluxx.de%2Fcommunity%2Fthreads%2Fbillige-chinaversion-von-homey-pro-gesucht.1333803%2F i am working with 433mhz intertechno protokoll remotes . please help thanks, christoph
Hardware
Remote light switch
S
Looking for a simple solution that doesn't require running wire (replacing a switch receptacle is fine) The problem: the only light switch in my garage is not near a door. So have to walk into the garage to turn the lights on. Ideal Solution: physical remote I can stick on the wall next to the door to toggle a switch. Is there a product that is a toggle switch to replace the basic switch in the receptacle that I can also operate with a remote?
Hardware
ESP32 / ESP8266
akbooerA
Is anyone actively developing anything on these IoT chips? In particular, using NodeMCU for Lua programmability? Just got a development board to play with myself... After a fruitless search for WiFI pulse utility meter readers (can't believe I couldn't find anything suitable) and also having resolved a while ago not to include any homebrew hardware in my HA configuration, I've decided in the end to try this out, after all. Having cut my teeth on Lua, thanks to Vera, it seems promising to use it for development, rather than Arduino programming, and the hardware is SO much cheaper, smaller, and neater than a RPi or the like. Any experiences welcomed! AK
Hardware
Shelly i3 as a cheap scene controller for Openluup
therealdbT
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Hardware
Hue dimmer as replacement for MiniMote remote
akbooerA
Finally, I’ve found an adequate replacement for my beloved MiniMote four-button remotes (I’ve had nine of them for the last 10 years or so!). I should have realised this earlier, but with four buttons and approximately the same form factor, the Philips Hue remotes are viable replacements… …however, they are, of course, Zigbee and not Zwave, but this doesn’t matter in my HA environment, which has now completely ditched Zwave and Vera for all lighting and control functions, and replaced them with Hue and Shelly devices. These are all brought together with a Homebridge installation running under Docker on Synology NAS with the Apple Home app as the UI. This gives, of course, both secure remote access and voice control. The MiniMote buttons I had configured as scene triggers to do whatever I needed, most usually toggling lights. The same functionality is easily achieved within the Home app by appropriate shortcuts. I’m still using openLuup as a secondary hub which mimics all the various devices using MQTT and the ALTHUE plug-in and logs all device and sensor data using the built-in Historian and viewed through Grafana. Works for me! AK
Hardware
UZB Stick - Moving from Z-Way to Z-Wave JS
PerHP
After a long wait for an updated version of the rather crude and unfinished Z-Way integration to HASS, i'm now looking (reluctantly) in to replacing Z-Way with Z-wave JS.. Mind you this is a big existing network, not a new controller stick.. I threw up a docker for z-wave JS UI, and tried to connect it to the UZB stick.. It loads the whole network from the stick, but the driver keeps restarting? Looking at the logs, I see a lot of Dropping message because the driver is not ready to handle it yet. It seems like the stick just keeps talking like z-way was still listening? This ends up in the driver crashing repeatedly.. Any ideas to how I can get them talking? In the code snippet below, you see the driver restarting with the graphic letters, seemingly while the stick is mid-sentence, or because of ACK timeout... 2022-10-02T19:19:59.664Z CNTRLR received additional controller information: Z-Wave API version: 6 (legacy) Z-Wave chip type: ZW050x node type Controller controller role: primary controller is the SIS: true controller supports timers: false nodes in the network: 1, 5, 6, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 18, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 32, 33, 34, 36, 37, 38, 39, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 4 7, 48, 52, 55, 69, 70, 71, 73, 74, 75, 77, 78, 79, 81, 82, 83 2022-10-02T19:19:59.765Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [Manufacturer Specific] manufacturerId: metadata updated 2022-10-02T19:19:59.766Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [Manufacturer Specific] productType: metadata updated 2022-10-02T19:19:59.767Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [Manufacturer Specific] productId: metadata updated 2022-10-02T19:19:59.768Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [+] [Manufacturer Specific] manufacturerId: 277 2022-10-02T19:19:59.769Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [+] [Manufacturer Specific] productType: 1024 2022-10-02T19:19:59.770Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [+] [Manufacturer Specific] productId: 1 2022-10-02T19:19:59.770Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [Version] firmwareVersions: metadata updated 2022-10-02T19:19:59.771Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [+] [Version] firmwareVersions: 5.39 2022-10-02T19:19:59.772Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [Version] sdkVersion: metadata updated 2022-10-02T19:19:59.772Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [+] [Version] sdkVersion: "6.9.0" 2022-10-02T19:19:59.772Z CNTRLR setting serial API timeouts: ack = 1000 ms, byte = 150 ms 2022-10-02T19:19:59.792Z SERIAL » 0x01050006640f97 (7 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:19:59.792Z DRIVER » [REQ] [SetSerialApiTimeouts] payload: 0x640f 2022-10-02T19:19:59.815Z SERIAL « [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:19:59.816Z SERIAL « 0x01050106640f96 (7 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:19:59.817Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.177Z DRIVER ███████╗ ██╗ ██╗ █████╗ ██╗ ██╗ ███████╗ ██╗ ███████╗ ╚══███╔╝ ██║ ██║ ██╔══██╗ ██║ ██║ ██╔════╝ ██║ ██╔════╝ ███╔╝ ██║ █╗ ██║ ███████║ ██║ ██║ █████╗ █████╗ ██║ ███████╗ ███╔╝ ██║███╗██║ ██╔══██║ ╚██╗ ██╔╝ ██╔══╝ ╚════╝ ██ ██║ ╚════██║ ███████╗ ╚███╔███╔╝ ██║ ██║ ╚████╔╝ ███████╗ ╚█████╔╝ ███████║ ╚══════╝ ╚══╝╚══╝ ╚═╝ ╚═╝ ╚═══╝ ╚══════╝ ╚════╝ ╚══════╝ 2022-10-02T19:21:03.178Z DRIVER version 10.2.0 2022-10-02T19:21:03.179Z DRIVER 2022-10-02T19:21:03.179Z DRIVER starting driver... 2022-10-02T19:21:03.199Z DRIVER opening serial port /dev/zwave 2022-10-02T19:21:03.212Z DRIVER serial port opened 2022-10-02T19:21:03.213Z SERIAL » [NAK] (0x15) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.229Z SERIAL « 0x01090141d39601020201f3 (11 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.232Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.233Z SERIAL « 0x01090141d39601020201f3 (11 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.234Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.234Z SERIAL « 0x01090141d39601020201f3 (11 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.234Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.261Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.268Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] [unexpected] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.268Z DRIVER unexpected response, discarding... 2022-10-02T19:21:03.268Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.271Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] [unexpected] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.271Z DRIVER unexpected response, discarding... 2022-10-02T19:21:03.271Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.273Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] [unexpected] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.274Z DRIVER unexpected response, discarding... 2022-10-02T19:21:03.274Z DRIVER loading configuration... 2022-10-02T19:21:03.298Z CONFIG Using external configuration dir /usr/src/app/store/.config-db 2022-10-02T19:21:03.298Z CONFIG version 10.2.0 2022-10-02T19:21:04.284Z DRIVER beginning interview... 2022-10-02T19:21:04.286Z DRIVER added request handler for AddNodeToNetwork (0x4a)... 1 registered 2022-10-02T19:21:04.286Z DRIVER added request handler for RemoveNodeFromNetwork (0x4b)... 1 registered 2022-10-02T19:21:04.286Z DRIVER added request handler for ReplaceFailedNode (0x63)... 1 registered 2022-10-02T19:21:04.287Z CNTRLR querying controller IDs... 2022-10-02T19:21:04.484Z SERIAL » 0x01030020dc (5 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:04.485Z DRIVER » [REQ] [GetControllerId] 2022-10-02T19:21:04.487Z SERIAL « 0x0123000400511a9f039900b834787d066515a4b79c45bb3af55ea7f6203006010 (37 bytes) 80120c84d 2022-10-02T19:21:04.489Z SERIAL « [DISCARDED] invalid data 0x9ef4 (2 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:04.490Z DRIVER Dropping message because it contains invalid data 2022-10-02T19:21:04.490Z SERIAL » [NAK] (0x15) 2022-10-02T19:21:05.488Z CNTRLR Failed to execute controller command after 1/3 attempts. Scheduling next try i n 100 ms. 2022-10-02T19:21:05.591Z SERIAL » 0x01030020dc (5 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:05.592Z DRIVER » [REQ] [GetControllerId] 2022-10-02T19:21:06.596Z CNTRLR Failed to execute controller command after 2/3 attempts. Scheduling next try i n 1100 ms. 2022-10-02T19:21:07.698Z SERIAL » 0x01030020dc (5 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:07.699Z DRIVER » [REQ] [GetControllerId] 2022-10-02T19:21:08.717Z DRIVER Failed to initialize the driver: ZWaveError: Timeout while waiting for an ACK from the controller (ZW0200) at Driver.sendMessage (/usr/src/app/node_modules/zwave-js/src/lib/driver/D river.ts:3980:23) at ZWaveController.identify (/usr/src/app/node_modules/zwave-js/src/lib/co ntroller/Controller.ts:713:33) at Driver.initializeControllerAndNodes (/usr/src/app/node_modules/zwave-js /src/lib/driver/Driver.ts:1207:26) at Immediate.<anonymous> (/usr/src/app/node_modules/zwave-js/src/lib/drive r/Driver.ts:1014:16) 2022-10-02T19:21:08.723Z DRIVER destroying driver instance... 2022-10-02T19:21:08.728Z DRIVER driver instance destroyed 2022-10-02T19:21:08.739Z DRIVER ███████╗ ██╗ ██╗ █████╗ ██╗ ██╗ ███████╗ ██╗ ███████╗ ╚══███╔╝ ██║ ██║ ██╔══██╗ ██║ ██║ ██╔════╝ ██║ ██╔════╝ ███╔╝ ██║ █╗ ██║ ███████║ ██║ ██║ █████╗ █████╗ ██║ ███████╗ ███╔╝ ██║███╗██║ ██╔══██║ ╚██╗ ██╔╝ ██╔══╝ ╚════╝ ██ ██║ ╚════██║ ███████╗ ╚███╔███╔╝ ██║ ██║ ╚████╔╝ ███████╗ ╚█████╔╝ ███████║ ╚══════╝ ╚══╝╚══╝ ╚═╝ ╚═╝ ╚═══╝ ╚══════╝ ╚════╝ ╚══════╝ 2022-10-02T19:21:08.740Z DRIVER version 10.2.0 2022-10-02T19:21:08.740Z DRIVER 2022-10-02T19:21:08.740Z DRIVER starting driver... 2022-10-02T19:21:08.745Z DRIVER opening serial port /dev/zwave 2022-10-02T19:21:08.751Z DRIVER serial port opened 2022-10-02T19:21:08.752Z SERIAL » [NAK] (0x15) 2022-10-02T19:21:08.754Z DRIVER loading configuration... 2022-10-02T19:21:08.755Z SERIAL « 0x01080120c84d9ef40138 (10 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:08.757Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:21:08.758Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetControllerId]
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Intercom Buzzer wiring with Shelly Plus 1
M
Topic thumbnail image
Hardware
Any decent destination for a Vera Plus?
wmarcolinW
Well with all that has been going on with Vera/eZlo, many people are abandoning the Vera hubs and moving on to other solutions, such as Hubitat (my case), HASS, HA, and many other controllers. In the past, I had already been informed that when the migration was over, my Vera would go to the incinerator, or under the wheel of my car, and of course, I did not comply. So I wanted to open a debate, for those who have not yet sold their Vera on eBay, are with the equipment idle, what destination could be given? I see many saying that it has become a laboratory, I don't see much sense, since it is becoming obsolete and without a drive. But it can be a destiny. Has anyone thought about whether it is feasible to change the hub's SO so that it becomes a host for MSR, for example? Or even Home Assistance? I have no knowledge, but it seems to me that processor and memory have to do something like that, already has embedded wifi and network. Does anyone have any idea if it is possible to give this equipment a destination other than a box?
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List of smart devices with no cloud requirement
M
I just started [uncloud] forum to gather in one central place all smart devices working without the cloud, since this is not information easily available on the Internet. I thought this might interest some users of this forum and any feedback are welcome. And let me know if you know more devices that I should add to the list! - Marco
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Z-wave serie 700 Europe/ Reactor/ Home Assistant
A
Good afternoon. Due to the new ezlo not being available in europe yet, I wanted to change the z-wave getway that works with the reactor to add to the home assistant. What advises? Thanks
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HVAC Control
LibraSunL
I didn't see an existing Topic for heating-ventilation-air conditioning, so here goes... Is anyone successfully controlling a "mini split" (i.e. ductless) A/C or heat pump system at home? I will be adding such a system soon to new construction, and wondered if certain brands/models interface better via Z-Wave or WiFi than others in a HA setting. I know a bunch of these "splits" come with handheld remotes, but having robust Home Automation control (preferably without a dedicated plug-in needed on the Vera side) would be idea. Happy to hear suggestions. Thanks! Libra
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Can a Ezlo Plus be bridged to a Vera Plus
L
I have a legacy Vera system that in my home and I need to add a few devices to a cottage on my property. The Vera zwave won't see devices that far away. Both the house and cottage are on the same LAN. Can I bridged an Ezlo Plus to my existing Vera plus and if so are there instructions?
Hardware

Tinkering with Tasmota sensors

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  • A Offline
    A Offline
    ArcherS
    wrote on last edited by
    #1

    Quite a number of years ago I set up a few Arduino sensors that reported temperature to my VeraLite running UI5. I did this with MySensors, a quite nice community based platform.
    I discontinued this mostly because that the combination of a rather flaky Vera and that the Vera when rebooting lost the USB connected gateway.

    Some time ago I started to look at this again, but this time using ESP8266’s and Tasmota. I think the credit for this partially is the plugin for Shelly and Tasmota that @therealdb has written, even though I have still to use the plugin. The other reason for reentering into this area is that my electrical supplier is replacing the electrical meters for a new smart meter. Today I use a blink meter from Effergy, but the new meter will have a port for reading out data. This also led me to Tasmota, there seems to be a functioning solution for this.

    I must say that Tasmota is brilliant! Support for all kind of devices and sensors and super easy to use, also for multi-sensors, OTA update, good documentation etc. You can get parts on ebay etc quite cheap. It has also so far been very stable. You can also very easily adjust the sensors readout, e.g. TempOffset -1.5 gives an offset of -1.5 degrees.

    I have put together sensors for temperature and humidity for use in the garage, the outhouse, on the attic etc. I have tested DHT22, DS1820B, BME280 and BH1750 so far and they all work without issues. The latter two I installed in an outdoor enclosure to use as a simple weather station reporting temperature, humidity, air pressure and light level.

    I also got a MH-Z19B CO2 meter for testing to monitor the indoor CO2 levels. The initial feeling is that it does what it should.

    In general I have pretty good wifi coverage with a few Unifi access points. One of the sensors is in a building some 25 meters from the house where the wifi is not that strong, but the NodeMCU has no problem with this. Quite impressive and a good addition to Z-wave for that kind of location.

    Not owning a 3D printer I have had to resort to purchased enclosures and the old Dremel. 😊
    For the CO2 sensor I put it in an old smoke detector enclosure for now.
    I am sure that there are a lot of talent here that can do much better with a 3D printer!
    CO2meter1.jpg

    HumTemp2.jpg

    HumTemp1_.jpg

    You can get the data from the Tasmota devices into OpenLuup in a number of ways. The obvious way is via MQTT. I have still to set this up at some point in time. The second way is to use the excellent SiteSensor plugin. I tested this but had some problems with reporting stopping after a few days for some reason. I probably got something wrong in the setup. The third option, that I currently use is via adding rules to each sensor. You can quite easily add rules for reporting data to a virtual sensor in OpenLuup, e.g:

    Rule1 ON tele-AM2301#Temperature DO Var1 %value% ENDON ON tele-AM2301#Temperature DO WebSend [IP_adress:3480]/data_request?id=lu_action&DeviceNum=65&id=variableset&serviceId=urn:upnp-org:serviceId:TemperatureSensor1&Variable=CurrentTemperature&Value=%Var1% ENDON

    With TelePeriod you can change the polling interval as required.

    This method I think could be super useful for reporting back e.g. switch status from a Tasmota node much like I understand Shelly can do.

    Some resources and notes I made on the way:

    • Using Tazmotizer to flash the ESP’s is very easy

    • List of supported sensors including how to connect, commands etc

    • A good pinout reference for ESP8266 variants

    • Tasmota rules documentation

    • Most sensors are either “Generic (0)” or “Generic (18)”, check for each sensor type what to use

    • For I2C sensors e.g. BME280 one must use tasmota-sensors.bin

    • For the MH-Z19B I had to flash the ESP before attaching the sensor, this could be a good practice always

    • Use the following url for the query in SiteSensor:
      http://IP_address/cm?cmnd=Status%2010

    This became a rather long post but hopefully it can be of some use.
    //ArcherS

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    1
    • therealdbT Offline
      therealdbT Offline
      therealdb
      wrote on last edited by
      #2

      I'm struggling with good enclosure as well (I still have to find something good for my light and temperature sensor...), but overall I did what you did, plus MQTT, because I'm not that good with Tasmota's rules and I have a couple of other things running on MQTT (Shelly, OpenSprinkler, FullyKiosk) and it was fun to write an orchestrator from MQTT to luup.

      Do you mind if I grab some of your instructions and add them to the readme? A lot of people are asking for guidance and the rules in particular is very helpful 🙂

      --
      On a mission to automate everything.

      My MS Reactor contrib
      My Luup Plug-ins

      A 1 Reply Last reply
      1
      • therealdbT therealdb

        I'm struggling with good enclosure as well (I still have to find something good for my light and temperature sensor...), but overall I did what you did, plus MQTT, because I'm not that good with Tasmota's rules and I have a couple of other things running on MQTT (Shelly, OpenSprinkler, FullyKiosk) and it was fun to write an orchestrator from MQTT to luup.

        Do you mind if I grab some of your instructions and add them to the readme? A lot of people are asking for guidance and the rules in particular is very helpful 🙂

        A Offline
        A Offline
        ArcherS
        wrote on last edited by
        #3

        @therealdb feel free to use what ever you want to your instructions, nice to know that it will be of use for others. 🙂

        //Archers

        A 1 Reply Last reply
        1
        • A ArcherS

          @therealdb feel free to use what ever you want to your instructions, nice to know that it will be of use for others. 🙂

          //Archers

          A Offline
          A Offline
          ArcherS
          wrote on last edited by
          #4

          @therealdb I built my outdoor sensor from what I had in the garage, very much DIY in other words. 🙂
          I used an outdoor junction box, to this I hot glued a plastic dome from an old motion sensor for the light sensor. I also added a short piece of plastic pipe for the BME280 so that it is outside of the box to get better readings. To keep spiders etc out of the pipe I added an old stainless mesh dome to the end of it.
          In the box is also a 240V/5V transformer.

          The intention is to mount it on the north wall of the house outside of the sun. At the moment it is laying on the window sill.
          utesensor.jpg

          Some more small tips on rules:
          It is possible to create up to three rules for each sensor.
          It is possible to have several "Do" stamements in each rule.
          Rule<x> ON <trigger1> DO <command> ENDON ON <trigger2> DO <command> ENDON ...

          It is very easy to find out the name of each sensor for using in the rules by looking at: http://IP_address/cm?cmnd=Status%2010

          A rule is defined by pasting the rule from e.g. notepad to the Console window of the sensor.
          After that the rule needs to be enabled by Rule1 1, Rule2 1 etc.
          After enabling a rule check in the console that the rule is sending values.
          A rule is deactivated by Rule1 0 etc.
          To see the contents of a rule just type Rule1 etc.
          To delete a rule type Rule1 " etc.

          My recommendation is for people to look at the Tasmota rules documentation, it is very good.
          .
          //ArcherS

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          • therealdbT Offline
            therealdbT Offline
            therealdb
            wrote on last edited by
            #5

            I'm currently struggling to get some dome, so sensors are getting dust. It's not a huge problem, since I have them indoor at the moment, but I wish I had more leftovers to thinker with 🙂

            Thanks for the rules, I'll definitely add something to the docs in the next days.

            --
            On a mission to automate everything.

            My MS Reactor contrib
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            • A Offline
              A Offline
              ArcherS
              wrote on last edited by
              #6

              Continuing an old thread, today I finished a Tasmota IR receiver and transmitter. I built it using the guidelines in the Tasmota documentation.
              IRremote1.jpg

              IRremote2.jpg It is built from a Wemos Mini D1and some components for in total approx. €10. All soldered together and hot-glued into a 60x60mm encosure.
              I must say it works quite nicely, I have tried it with a few of the remotes in the household and it seems to pick up and decode them so far.

              Like all Tasmota devices it can be controlled via console, MQTT or web requests.
              Via web requests you send: http://DeviceIPadress/cm?cmnd= and then append the command e.g. IRsend{...} or IRHVAC{...}.
              The command needs to be url encoded via e.g. https://www.urlencoder.org/
              The exact command you get by the help of the IR receiver, just press the appropriate button on the remote and look at the response in the console.

              The idea I have with the IR unit is to be able to send some commands to the HVAC. Commands for HVAC units are a bit tricky since the remote usually send all config commands every time, but I think I got it to work as I need to.
              I could also see this as an alternative to a Broadlink unit to control a TV etc. as well, all depending on the use case.

              //ArcherS

              A therealdbT 2 Replies Last reply
              1
              • A ArcherS

                Continuing an old thread, today I finished a Tasmota IR receiver and transmitter. I built it using the guidelines in the Tasmota documentation.
                IRremote1.jpg

                IRremote2.jpg It is built from a Wemos Mini D1and some components for in total approx. €10. All soldered together and hot-glued into a 60x60mm encosure.
                I must say it works quite nicely, I have tried it with a few of the remotes in the household and it seems to pick up and decode them so far.

                Like all Tasmota devices it can be controlled via console, MQTT or web requests.
                Via web requests you send: http://DeviceIPadress/cm?cmnd= and then append the command e.g. IRsend{...} or IRHVAC{...}.
                The command needs to be url encoded via e.g. https://www.urlencoder.org/
                The exact command you get by the help of the IR receiver, just press the appropriate button on the remote and look at the response in the console.

                The idea I have with the IR unit is to be able to send some commands to the HVAC. Commands for HVAC units are a bit tricky since the remote usually send all config commands every time, but I think I got it to work as I need to.
                I could also see this as an alternative to a Broadlink unit to control a TV etc. as well, all depending on the use case.

                //ArcherS

                A Offline
                A Offline
                a-lurker
                wrote on last edited by
                #7

                I like the Tasmota stuff but the devices would probably become a management nightmare as time goes on, or as the number of devices is increased. However, is it worthwhile me having a look at supporting the Tasmota IR device with this plugin or maybe not?

                The Tasmota interface is a bit lacking as it follows no standard. This list

                "Protocol" or "Vendor" (select one of the following):
                RC5, RC6, NEC, SONY, PANASONIC, JVC, SAMSUNG, WHYNTER, AIWA_RC_T501, LG, MITSUBISHI, DISH, SHARP, DENON, SHERWOOD, RCMM, SANYO_LC7461, RC5X, NEC (non-strict), NIKAI, MAGIQUEST, LASERTAG, CARRIER_AC, MITSUBISHI2, HITACHI_AC1, HITACHI_AC2, GICABLE, LUTRON, PIONEER, LG2, SAMSUNG36, LEGOPF, INAX, DAIKIN152
                

                includes duplicates, as some such as LG, are based on NEC format. Formats have already been well defined here.

                Also listing out working codes like this will become untenable in the long term. It's already been done here.

                Perhaps the Virtual Pronto Remote plugin could also produce raw "Tasmota" codes, so they could be used through this Tasmota interface?

                I don't have the hardware, so can't test it. Might also have to rename the plugin as it will do output more than pronto codes.

                It would be easier to encourage the Tasmota people to allow Pronto codes to be sent, which is an extremely popular format?

                therealdbT A 2 Replies Last reply
                0
                • A a-lurker

                  I like the Tasmota stuff but the devices would probably become a management nightmare as time goes on, or as the number of devices is increased. However, is it worthwhile me having a look at supporting the Tasmota IR device with this plugin or maybe not?

                  The Tasmota interface is a bit lacking as it follows no standard. This list

                  "Protocol" or "Vendor" (select one of the following):
                  RC5, RC6, NEC, SONY, PANASONIC, JVC, SAMSUNG, WHYNTER, AIWA_RC_T501, LG, MITSUBISHI, DISH, SHARP, DENON, SHERWOOD, RCMM, SANYO_LC7461, RC5X, NEC (non-strict), NIKAI, MAGIQUEST, LASERTAG, CARRIER_AC, MITSUBISHI2, HITACHI_AC1, HITACHI_AC2, GICABLE, LUTRON, PIONEER, LG2, SAMSUNG36, LEGOPF, INAX, DAIKIN152
                  

                  includes duplicates, as some such as LG, are based on NEC format. Formats have already been well defined here.

                  Also listing out working codes like this will become untenable in the long term. It's already been done here.

                  Perhaps the Virtual Pronto Remote plugin could also produce raw "Tasmota" codes, so they could be used through this Tasmota interface?

                  I don't have the hardware, so can't test it. Might also have to rename the plugin as it will do output more than pronto codes.

                  It would be easier to encourage the Tasmota people to allow Pronto codes to be sent, which is an extremely popular format?

                  therealdbT Offline
                  therealdbT Offline
                  therealdb
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #8

                  @a-lurker said in Tinkering with Tasmota sensors:

                  I like the Tasmota stuff but the devices would probably become a management nightmare as time goes on

                  I still have a sensor stuck at v5, because it's outside near the pool panel and it's a pita to mess with it, and it's working fine. I agree it's more management, but it's doable. I usually update them every now and them, manually, but I saw a couple of programs (this applies to shelly too) to manage them and update firmware centrally.

                  I still prefer Zwave, but it's too difficult to have reliable sensors for specific cases.

                  --
                  On a mission to automate everything.

                  My MS Reactor contrib
                  My Luup Plug-ins

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • A ArcherS

                    Continuing an old thread, today I finished a Tasmota IR receiver and transmitter. I built it using the guidelines in the Tasmota documentation.
                    IRremote1.jpg

                    IRremote2.jpg It is built from a Wemos Mini D1and some components for in total approx. €10. All soldered together and hot-glued into a 60x60mm encosure.
                    I must say it works quite nicely, I have tried it with a few of the remotes in the household and it seems to pick up and decode them so far.

                    Like all Tasmota devices it can be controlled via console, MQTT or web requests.
                    Via web requests you send: http://DeviceIPadress/cm?cmnd= and then append the command e.g. IRsend{...} or IRHVAC{...}.
                    The command needs to be url encoded via e.g. https://www.urlencoder.org/
                    The exact command you get by the help of the IR receiver, just press the appropriate button on the remote and look at the response in the console.

                    The idea I have with the IR unit is to be able to send some commands to the HVAC. Commands for HVAC units are a bit tricky since the remote usually send all config commands every time, but I think I got it to work as I need to.
                    I could also see this as an alternative to a Broadlink unit to control a TV etc. as well, all depending on the use case.

                    //ArcherS

                    therealdbT Offline
                    therealdbT Offline
                    therealdb
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #9

                    @archers said in Tinkering with Tasmota sensors:

                    It is built from a Wemos Mini D1and some components for in total approx. €10. All soldered together and hot-glued into a 60x60mm encosure.

                    Great build! As I already said, I'm jealous of your enclosures. Mine are too wacky 😞

                    --
                    On a mission to automate everything.

                    My MS Reactor contrib
                    My Luup Plug-ins

                    A 1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • therealdbT therealdb

                      @archers said in Tinkering with Tasmota sensors:

                      It is built from a Wemos Mini D1and some components for in total approx. €10. All soldered together and hot-glued into a 60x60mm encosure.

                      Great build! As I already said, I'm jealous of your enclosures. Mine are too wacky 😞

                      A Offline
                      A Offline
                      ArcherS
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #10

                      @therealdb Thanks!
                      I did some searching before finding good enclosures, I eventually found a few nice ones at Conrad. They have a lot of different enclosures listed, many of them are not that expensive either. I notice that they also have an Italian branch, below I listed what I used on Conrad.it.

                      • enclosure for the IR node, I also ordered a bigger 80x80mm version

                      • enclosure for my Shelly Uni

                      //ArcherS

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      1
                      • therealdbT Offline
                        therealdbT Offline
                        therealdb
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #11

                        Thanks @ArcherS! I just need the ventilated ones. They should fit temp, humidity and light sensors nicely. I’ll also build an air quality sensor soon, so it’ll be handy. I’ll place an order soon. Thanks again!

                        --
                        On a mission to automate everything.

                        My MS Reactor contrib
                        My Luup Plug-ins

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        1
                        • A a-lurker

                          I like the Tasmota stuff but the devices would probably become a management nightmare as time goes on, or as the number of devices is increased. However, is it worthwhile me having a look at supporting the Tasmota IR device with this plugin or maybe not?

                          The Tasmota interface is a bit lacking as it follows no standard. This list

                          "Protocol" or "Vendor" (select one of the following):
                          RC5, RC6, NEC, SONY, PANASONIC, JVC, SAMSUNG, WHYNTER, AIWA_RC_T501, LG, MITSUBISHI, DISH, SHARP, DENON, SHERWOOD, RCMM, SANYO_LC7461, RC5X, NEC (non-strict), NIKAI, MAGIQUEST, LASERTAG, CARRIER_AC, MITSUBISHI2, HITACHI_AC1, HITACHI_AC2, GICABLE, LUTRON, PIONEER, LG2, SAMSUNG36, LEGOPF, INAX, DAIKIN152
                          

                          includes duplicates, as some such as LG, are based on NEC format. Formats have already been well defined here.

                          Also listing out working codes like this will become untenable in the long term. It's already been done here.

                          Perhaps the Virtual Pronto Remote plugin could also produce raw "Tasmota" codes, so they could be used through this Tasmota interface?

                          I don't have the hardware, so can't test it. Might also have to rename the plugin as it will do output more than pronto codes.

                          It would be easier to encourage the Tasmota people to allow Pronto codes to be sent, which is an extremely popular format?

                          A Offline
                          A Offline
                          ArcherS
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #12

                          @a-lurker I am not that good at IR codes to be honest. A number of years ago I played around with a USB UIRT together with my UI5 VeraLite and Girder(?) on a PC. I was able to record some codes that I then could send from the Vera.

                          I agree that better Tasmota support for Pronto codes probably could be useful since it seems to be a quite popular format and available for a lot of devices. Also the hardware for the device I put together seems both quite capable and reasonable in price. One possible upside with Tasmota is that it does not suffer from the lock-in problems that I have understood that e.g. Broadlink does from time to time when the manufacturers want to keep the users in their cloud.

                          //ArcherS

                          A 1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • A ArcherS

                            @a-lurker I am not that good at IR codes to be honest. A number of years ago I played around with a USB UIRT together with my UI5 VeraLite and Girder(?) on a PC. I was able to record some codes that I then could send from the Vera.

                            I agree that better Tasmota support for Pronto codes probably could be useful since it seems to be a quite popular format and available for a lot of devices. Also the hardware for the device I put together seems both quite capable and reasonable in price. One possible upside with Tasmota is that it does not suffer from the lock-in problems that I have understood that e.g. Broadlink does from time to time when the manufacturers want to keep the users in their cloud.

                            //ArcherS

                            A Offline
                            A Offline
                            a-lurker
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #13

                            @archers said in Tinkering with Tasmota sensors:

                            One possible upside with Tasmota is that it does not suffer from the lock-in problems that I have understood that e.g. Broadlink does from time to time when the manufacturers want to keep the users in their cloud

                            Yes - it's a problem and your solution is a good Broadlink replacement for IR. Tosmota also has a very capable IR send library, including some excellent Aircon drivers. The library that's being used, can send Pronto as well, so I'm unsure why it's not made available. May be it is but just not documented. It can also do Global Caché. Would be good to ask the question on that forum.

                            void sendPronto(uint16_t data[], uint16_t len, uint16_t repeat = kNoRepeat);
                            void sendGC(uint16_t buf[], uint16_t len);
                            void sendRaw(const uint16_t buf[], const uint16_t len, const uint16_t hz);
                            
                            

                            If you post some pronto codes that you know definitely work on your AV device/s (NOT aircons) and you say what they do and what manufacturer and type of device eg TV, DVD, etc than I could have a look supporting Tasmota IR. Assuming you are in position to test the result.

                            Learned codes are OK but you need to learn every single one of interest, which is a pain. If the codes are generated you can use what's already known.

                            IR database

                            It's just a matter of identifying the correct code set and using the associated pronto codes. Hope this makes some sense.

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                            • A Offline
                              A Offline
                              ArcherS
                              wrote on last edited by ArcherS
                              #14

                              Some time ago I stumbled on some rather nice looking temperature and humidity sensors from Xiaomi and how to get them to communicate with a Tasmota ESP32 with BLE.

                              Xiaomi temp sensor.jpg

                              I ordered an ESP32 on Ebay and a three-pack of the sensors from Bangood. The sensors are quite cheap, you can find them for €4-5 in the usual sites.

                              The sensors are quite small, approx 4.5cm and run on a CR2032 battery. Time will tell how long the batteries will last. With the custom firmware you can change the reporting interval.

                              I have now been running this for little over two months and it works surprisingly well, bringing the temperature and humidity data into OpenLuup.

                              In short what you do is the following:

                              • Download the beta Tasmota for ESP32, flashing is a bit different from the regular Tasmota but pretty straight forward

                              • Enable bluetooth with setoption115 1

                              • The Xiaomi sensors can used both with stock firmware and flashed with a custom firmware that removes the encryption from the transmit of data, I flashed them with a Win10 laptop and it was super easy. You can even roll back the original firmware if you want.

                              The Xiaomi sensors will then be included by the ESP32 Tasmota device and can be sent to OpenLuup with rules, brought in with Sitesensor or now via MQTT.

                              73f83e12-af75-458a-b021-cd9d413260fc-image.png

                              CrilleC 1 Reply Last reply
                              2
                              • B Offline
                                B Offline
                                Buxton
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #15

                                I've been waiting for something like this. Very cool. Thx for the post

                                A 1 Reply Last reply
                                1
                                • B Buxton

                                  I've been waiting for something like this. Very cool. Thx for the post

                                  A Offline
                                  A Offline
                                  ArcherS
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #16

                                  @buxton yes it opens up new possibilities. On the Tasmota bluetooth webpage some other devices are listed, e.g. a soil humidity meter.

                                  So far it has been quite stable for more than two months.
                                  The Tasmota ESP32 is still beta, I assume it will get better over time.

                                  I will also make the ESP32 to report over Mqtt now that OpenLuup has support for it, hopefully that will make the setup even more stable.

                                  B 1 Reply Last reply
                                  2
                                  • A ArcherS

                                    @buxton yes it opens up new possibilities. On the Tasmota bluetooth webpage some other devices are listed, e.g. a soil humidity meter.

                                    So far it has been quite stable for more than two months.
                                    The Tasmota ESP32 is still beta, I assume it will get better over time.

                                    I will also make the ESP32 to report over Mqtt now that OpenLuup has support for it, hopefully that will make the setup even more stable.

                                    B Offline
                                    B Offline
                                    Buxton
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #17

                                    @archers i didn't want to use a development kit for this, as in my environment they tend to get broken. So went searching and found the Sonoff Dual R3 with an ESP32 chip. Fits nicely in a switch box and runs on mains power. Can't wait to see what kind distance I get as soil sensors are next up after temp sensors.

                                    A 1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • B Buxton

                                      @archers i didn't want to use a development kit for this, as in my environment they tend to get broken. So went searching and found the Sonoff Dual R3 with an ESP32 chip. Fits nicely in a switch box and runs on mains power. Can't wait to see what kind distance I get as soil sensors are next up after temp sensors.

                                      A Offline
                                      A Offline
                                      ArcherS
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #18

                                      @buxton yes I saw the Sonoff Dual R3, looks like a nice solution for getting an ESP32 into the house. The one downside is that some soldering is needed to get Tasmota onboard. I saw a good clip on this on youtube, should not be too complicated.

                                      The distance for me is quite ok 7-8 meters with some walls inbetween, but it probably varies depending on what walls you have etc.

                                      A 1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • A ArcherS

                                        @buxton yes I saw the Sonoff Dual R3, looks like a nice solution for getting an ESP32 into the house. The one downside is that some soldering is needed to get Tasmota onboard. I saw a good clip on this on youtube, should not be too complicated.

                                        The distance for me is quite ok 7-8 meters with some walls inbetween, but it probably varies depending on what walls you have etc.

                                        A Offline
                                        A Offline
                                        ArcherS
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #19

                                        I have now completed two more CO2 meters. I used a similar enclosure as for the IR tranceiver, but this time 80 x 80 mm. I got it from Conrad, but you can get it from e.g. Farnell also. The enclosure is available in black and grey also.

                                        CO2meter3.jpg

                                        The sensor contains a D1 Mini ESP8266, a MH-Z19B CO2 sensor and a BME280 temp/humidity/air pressure sensor. I have found the BME280 to be pretty good.
                                        The temp reading from the MH-Z19B is however completely off so a separate sensor is required.

                                        A tip is to add a switch for the power to the MH-Z19B, this is needed for switching the MH-Z19B off when (re)flashing the ESP.
                                        I think the MH-Z19B requires too much power from the PC USB when flashing.

                                        Another tip is that in Tasmota it is possible to adjust the sensor offset with TempOffset and HumOffset.

                                        There are a few options for the MH-Z19B with the Sensor15 command. I have turned off auto calibration.

                                        The plan is to push the data into OpenLuup from the sensors with Mqtt when I get this fully up and running.

                                        therealdbT S 2 Replies Last reply
                                        1
                                        • A ArcherS

                                          I have now completed two more CO2 meters. I used a similar enclosure as for the IR tranceiver, but this time 80 x 80 mm. I got it from Conrad, but you can get it from e.g. Farnell also. The enclosure is available in black and grey also.

                                          CO2meter3.jpg

                                          The sensor contains a D1 Mini ESP8266, a MH-Z19B CO2 sensor and a BME280 temp/humidity/air pressure sensor. I have found the BME280 to be pretty good.
                                          The temp reading from the MH-Z19B is however completely off so a separate sensor is required.

                                          A tip is to add a switch for the power to the MH-Z19B, this is needed for switching the MH-Z19B off when (re)flashing the ESP.
                                          I think the MH-Z19B requires too much power from the PC USB when flashing.

                                          Another tip is that in Tasmota it is possible to adjust the sensor offset with TempOffset and HumOffset.

                                          There are a few options for the MH-Z19B with the Sensor15 command. I have turned off auto calibration.

                                          The plan is to push the data into OpenLuup from the sensors with Mqtt when I get this fully up and running.

                                          therealdbT Offline
                                          therealdbT Offline
                                          therealdb
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #20

                                          @archers I'm still trying to find a PIR enclosure, to securely mount the light sensor. Did you find one specifically? Thanks!

                                          --
                                          On a mission to automate everything.

                                          My MS Reactor contrib
                                          My Luup Plug-ins

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