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Hello,
I have a kitchen light that can be controlled by two switches, using either to turn it off or on. I have been slowly changing things over to be a smart home but this is the first switch I am attempting to install.
I am in a double wide modular home (mobile) that was built in 1994.
At first I thought I would need a 3 way switch but when taking the normal switches apart I realized that was incorrect because the wiring on my switches are different than anything I could find online.
For one a 3 way smart switch requires 5 wires and there are only 2 wires going into the primary switch with 3 wires going into the secondary switch from the primary switch (at least I think the 3 wires connect the two switches together). Images will be attached of the wiring.
There are two wires (one black and one white) going into the first switch and 3 wires (black, white, and red) going out of that and into the second switch (I assume). The odd thing is the red wire going to the second switch is connected to the white wire going into the first switch and the white wire going into the second switch seems to be a bridge wire or a traveler wire. Not exactly sure. You will see what I mean in the images.
I need to know what kind of smart switch I can use in this set up with one remaining a normal switch.
Note that for some reason the images got switched around when uploading them. The image with 2 wires on one side and 3 on the other is what I think is the primary and the image with just 3 wires is the secondary.
Primary.jpg Secondary.jpg -
Hi,
I am a student and recently i am working on smart home project and writing a seminar paper about the way users handle and manage IoT devices. I you have 3 min, please fill below survey. Its really short.
Thank you in advance, I really appreciate everyone's help. -
You lot are more likely to have a view than most I know. Our much used Logitech Harmony is (not so) slowly dying.
And Logitech have discontinued the entire line.
And no one else appears to be making something similar.
Was going for a Sofabaton X1, but no numeric keypad. Sofabaton U1, but no favourites.
Anyone got suggestions?
Needs to have those features, oh and not be only a phone app.....C
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Since one member asked at one point about the "front end" and "back end", I drew this showing the controller from the base to the tip along with what I have found to be the best options from my testing. Almost every controller will try to integrate all elements, especially commercial ones but... they all have strengths and weaknesses so if one can have a medley of the best ones...
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So, I think I'm in a bit of an unusual situation. I work at a camp & retreat center that has wifi throughout. I want to put a few switches in the office that can control outdoor lighting throughout the camp. We currently have switches in each of the buildings, but it is a particularly frustrating job to get all the lights on in the evening when it is brutally cold out or we are short staffed.
Most of our staff is not very tech savvy (my boss literally has his wife print out his emails for him each day!!!) so, I'd love to avoid having to set up any sort of raspberry pi or new phone app.
Is there type of 3-way switch that can connect to the wifi, turn on a light in another building AND turn on an indicator light in the office, without having any sort of wire running between the buildings? Hopefully looking for a simple solution without breaking the bank too.
I greatly appreciate any input that you can give. Thank you!
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I have a X10 wall switch system and I want to get rid of it. What would be the easiest transition to something more modern and easy to use with either wifi/homekit capabilities? My current X10 controls 3 zones in my bedroom. All zones are dimmable.
Zone 1 is 4 canister ceiling lights. LED bulbs
Zone 2 is 1 canister ceiling lights. Halogen Bulb
Zone 3 is 1 canister ceiling lights. Halogen Bulb
I have an old plug-in remote from Radio Shack and a wall switch with 3 buttons, each controlling one zone. (images attached)
My wall switch has one two wires from the wall. One black, one white.Is there any solution easy to install without the need of an electrician? Thanks for any feedback.
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Good morning all,
I'm working on weaning myself off of being totally Vera dependent. I've installed MSR on my Fedora home server, and I've been migrating luup Reactor rules over little by little. My hope is to use Vera as a bare bones z-wave hub, until I replace it either with Ezlo (not so sure about), or perhaps Hubitat. I'm just tired of zero new development in Vera, empty promises of native device integration, and cloud services that go down and leave my automation hanging.In any case, I digress. I've attempted to use Gcal3 on Vera to integrate Public calendars, such as Federal Holidays, School Calendars, etc. It use to somewhat work, but more often than not, all I get from Gcal3 is "token error code: HTTP/1.1 400 Bad Request". The developer no longer is active, and it's effectively not working anymore.
I'd like to use these public calendars as Entity Attributes or Constraints in MSR. For instance, if it's a Federal Holiday, I don't have to work, and I may want to sleep in, which means lights may not come on as early, window coverings in the bedrooms may open later in the day, etc. Similar idea with a school calendar. If "closed" is in the event, my daughter may want to sleep in, and not want the window coverings opened as early.
I'm aware that Ezlo has integration through NuCal to all sorts of web based services, including Google Calendar, but as I stated earlier, I'm undecided on going down that path. Is there anyway to do this on MSR through any of it's abilities, such as HTTP calls or MQTT ( not experienced in MQTT, so I don't know now it works really).
Has anybody already done this?
Thanks for any advice in advance.
Easy way to convert to SSD from SD card on Pi with MSR
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So have been migrating a bunch of automations to MSR from Hubitat and no I feel like I want to have an SSD instead of SD card on my Pi3.What is an Easy way to convert to SSD from SD card on Pi with MSR. What files do I need to copy to keep my rules?
/Mattias
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The instructions below seem to be the most current. The procedure copies everything, so it will automatically pick up your Reactor configuration, logs, etc.
But there are
twothree important caveats in using them:- When you get to running "SD Card Copier" (step 15 at this writing), make sure the checkbox "New Partition UUIDs" is off. This is shown in the screen shot but not mentioned in the text, and if it's checked, your copy won't boot.
- Only certain SSD adapters work. The list of known working adapters is also linked below. Be very careful about model names and numbers (e.g. the Sabrent 3.0 to SSD model EC-SSHD does not work, while the similarly-named Sabrent 3.1 to SSD model EC-SS31 does work (I use this one, no problems).
- Some of the screens shown in the firmware configuration have changed slightly, so you may need to hunt for the setting the instructions are trying to get you to... stay calm and search on... just wander the menus. The right words are still there, just moved, so you'll know when you find them.
Instructions:
Known Working Adapters:
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@toggledbits Are the instructions valid for RPi3 as well as @Matteburk is referring to being his unit? I have not checked since I only use RPi4's. I think the big gain is when you have the SSD connected to USB3.
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@matteburk if you have a Pi 3B+ then you are in luck since it will boot from USB without doing anything.
If it is a Pi 3B then you have to change a "USB boot bit", see e.g. this instruction.I took the easy route and bought a new Pi 3B+ when I moved my Z-way server to SSD from SD. They are quite cheap anyway and I guess I can get use of the Pi 3B for something else later on.
As @toggledbits says the Pi's are a bit picky on SSD adapters. I had two old 2.5" cases laying around, one worked and the other did not. The SSD migration cable that came with a Samsung SSD that I used for another PC also works.
Edit: And if you buy a new Pi 4 they should now also have USB boot out of the box. Assuming the box has not been sitting on the shelf in the store for too long of course.
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Ahh... right... I would guess not. I haven't tried on a 3.
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Thanx for all answers.... I had an old PI3 and ofcouse ordered wrong data usb cable so I had to order a new one and then I took a Pi4 also...
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@matteburk Since you live in Sweden, you could find it in your local Kjell&Co store. I use Samsung 870, 250G (62906) and SATA-USB3 adapter (61199). Works great.
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FYI I got the RPi 4 with ssd up and running and cloned sd card . Thanx to all!