I have a ton of different Ledvance bulbs, pluggs sensors and lights.
So far everything works fine.
Bot there is one thing I want too figure out.
I can link lights with the sensor so the light turns on when I enter the room.
But I want to put a timer on it.
Like 5 min without movement and the light turns of. I just can't figure out how..
I use LVD app.
Hello - I'm building a new home with zwave throughout. I want to install a flow detection shutoff, and flow meter for three different areas - a pool autofiller, irrigation system, and the home usage. I'd like to be able to detect any leaks in the system, as well as see the flow/usage by each area. What would you recommend?
i am searching for a universal hub that takes my 433 remotes signals and repeats them 433mhz or converts them into bluetooth, wifi, IR, z-wave etc…basically into all the other signals. so my 433mhz remote becomes a universal remote.
it should have an app to configurate, maybe a learning function as well
i belive the homey pro can do that but it costs like 400$ …right?
so is there a cheap “china” product that works like that for at least 433 into IR, bluetooth, wifi
there are so many chinaproducts and i cant figure out which can do which trick !/ this for example https://de.trck.one/redir/clickGate.php?u=Ha2Rd3xX&m=1&p=9yUI69TI8b&t=kLf5673Z&st=&s=&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.techpunt.nl%2Fde%2Fhomey-bridge.html%3Fgclid%3DCj0KCQiA9YugBhCZARIsAACXxeJvViv59ieDen9zOXTP1jhc_OisKQxPlCZOJsPGX20nWo7UROROuJcaAix5EALw_wcB&r=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hardwareluxx.de%2Fcommunity%2Fthreads%2Fbillige-chinaversion-von-homey-pro-gesucht.1333803%2F
i am working with 433mhz intertechno protokoll remotes .
Looking for a simple solution that doesn't require running wire (replacing a switch receptacle is fine)
The problem: the only light switch in my garage is not near a door. So have to walk into the garage to turn the lights on.
Ideal Solution: physical remote I can stick on the wall next to the door to toggle a switch. Is there a product that is a toggle switch to replace the basic switch in the receptacle that I can also operate with a remote?
Is anyone actively developing anything on these IoT chips?
In particular, using NodeMCU for Lua programmability?
Just got a development board to play with myself...
After a fruitless search for WiFI pulse utility meter readers (can't believe I couldn't find anything suitable) and also having resolved a while ago not to include any homebrew hardware in my HA configuration, I've decided in the end to try this out, after all.
Having cut my teeth on Lua, thanks to Vera, it seems promising to use it for development, rather than Arduino programming, and the hardware is SO much cheaper, smaller, and neater than a RPi or the like.
Any experiences welcomed!
Shelly i3 is an unbelievably cheap (9,99 EUR/USD) WiFi device that’s part of the fantastic Shelly family. It supports REST API, MQTT and much more.Shelly i3 Shelly i3
Downloads Manuals App Guide User and Safety Guide Certificates & Declarations Declaration of conformity Declaration of conformity - DE What is Shel...10
It’s just L,N and 3 inputs. No relays, so it’s a scene controller with bonus point to the fact that you can use your own buttons and keep the aesthetics of your house. Bonus points for WAF. It’s very small, so it will fit in your standard wall box easily.
While I built my own Scene Controller Virtual Device and I’m using MQTT for other devices of the family, Shelly can call your HTTP endpoints on button presses and in this case is more than enough.
The buttons support different actions (press, long press, double/triple press) and you can just call a service endpoint, or update a variable:
Go get it if you need a very cheap, very reliable scene controller for your home.
Finally, I’ve found an adequate replacement for my beloved MiniMote four-button remotes (I’ve had nine of them for the last 10 years or so!). I should have realised this earlier, but with four buttons and approximately the same form factor, the Philips Hue remotes are viable replacements…
…however, they are, of course, Zigbee and not Zwave, but this doesn’t matter in my HA environment, which has now completely ditched Zwave and Vera for all lighting and control functions, and replaced them with Hue and Shelly devices. These are all brought together with a Homebridge installation running under Docker on Synology NAS with the Apple Home app as the UI. This gives, of course, both secure remote access and voice control.
The MiniMote buttons I had configured as scene triggers to do whatever I needed, most usually toggling lights. The same functionality is easily achieved within the Home app by appropriate shortcuts.
I’m still using openLuup as a secondary hub which mimics all the various devices using MQTT and the ALTHUE plug-in and logs all device and sensor data using the built-in Historian and viewed through Grafana.
Works for me!
After a long wait for an updated version of the rather crude and unfinished Z-Way integration to HASS, i'm now looking (reluctantly) in to replacing Z-Way with Z-wave JS..
Mind you this is a big existing network, not a new controller stick..
I threw up a docker for z-wave JS UI, and tried to connect it to the UZB stick.. It loads the whole network from the stick, but the driver keeps restarting?
Looking at the logs, I see a lot of Dropping message because the driver is not ready to handle it yet.
It seems like the stick just keeps talking like z-way was still listening? This ends up in the driver crashing repeatedly.. Any ideas to how I can get them talking?
In the code snippet below, you see the driver restarting with the graphic letters, seemingly while the stick is mid-sentence, or because of ACK timeout...2022-10-02T19:19:59.664Z CNTRLR received additional controller information: Z-Wave API version: 6 (legacy) Z-Wave chip type: ZW050x node type Controller controller role: primary controller is the SIS: true controller supports timers: false nodes in the network: 1, 5, 6, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 18, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 32, 33, 34, 36, 37, 38, 39, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 4 7, 48, 52, 55, 69, 70, 71, 73, 74, 75, 77, 78, 79, 81, 82, 83 2022-10-02T19:19:59.765Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [Manufacturer Specific] manufacturerId: metadata updated 2022-10-02T19:19:59.766Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [Manufacturer Specific] productType: metadata updated 2022-10-02T19:19:59.767Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [Manufacturer Specific] productId: metadata updated 2022-10-02T19:19:59.768Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [+] [Manufacturer Specific] manufacturerId: 277 2022-10-02T19:19:59.769Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [+] [Manufacturer Specific] productType: 1024 2022-10-02T19:19:59.770Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [+] [Manufacturer Specific] productId: 1 2022-10-02T19:19:59.770Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [Version] firmwareVersions: metadata updated 2022-10-02T19:19:59.771Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [+] [Version] firmwareVersions: 5.39 2022-10-02T19:19:59.772Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [Version] sdkVersion: metadata updated 2022-10-02T19:19:59.772Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [+] [Version] sdkVersion: "6.9.0" 2022-10-02T19:19:59.772Z CNTRLR setting serial API timeouts: ack = 1000 ms, byte = 150 ms 2022-10-02T19:19:59.792Z SERIAL » 0x01050006640f97 (7 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:19:59.792Z DRIVER » [REQ] [SetSerialApiTimeouts] payload: 0x640f 2022-10-02T19:19:59.815Z SERIAL « [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:19:59.816Z SERIAL « 0x01050106640f96 (7 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:19:59.817Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.177Z DRIVER ███████╗ ██╗ ██╗ █████╗ ██╗ ██╗ ███████╗ ██╗ ███████╗ ╚══███╔╝ ██║ ██║ ██╔══██╗ ██║ ██║ ██╔════╝ ██║ ██╔════╝ ███╔╝ ██║ █╗ ██║ ███████║ ██║ ██║ █████╗ █████╗ ██║ ███████╗ ███╔╝ ██║███╗██║ ██╔══██║ ╚██╗ ██╔╝ ██╔══╝ ╚════╝ ██ ██║ ╚════██║ ███████╗ ╚███╔███╔╝ ██║ ██║ ╚████╔╝ ███████╗ ╚█████╔╝ ███████║ ╚══════╝ ╚══╝╚══╝ ╚═╝ ╚═╝ ╚═══╝ ╚══════╝ ╚════╝ ╚══════╝ 2022-10-02T19:21:03.178Z DRIVER version 10.2.0 2022-10-02T19:21:03.179Z DRIVER 2022-10-02T19:21:03.179Z DRIVER starting driver... 2022-10-02T19:21:03.199Z DRIVER opening serial port /dev/zwave 2022-10-02T19:21:03.212Z DRIVER serial port opened 2022-10-02T19:21:03.213Z SERIAL » [NAK] (0x15) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.229Z SERIAL « 0x01090141d39601020201f3 (11 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.232Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.233Z SERIAL « 0x01090141d39601020201f3 (11 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.234Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.234Z SERIAL « 0x01090141d39601020201f3 (11 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.234Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.261Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.268Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] [unexpected] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.268Z DRIVER unexpected response, discarding... 2022-10-02T19:21:03.268Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.271Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] [unexpected] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.271Z DRIVER unexpected response, discarding... 2022-10-02T19:21:03.271Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.273Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] [unexpected] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.274Z DRIVER unexpected response, discarding... 2022-10-02T19:21:03.274Z DRIVER loading configuration... 2022-10-02T19:21:03.298Z CONFIG Using external configuration dir /usr/src/app/store/.config-db 2022-10-02T19:21:03.298Z CONFIG version 10.2.0 2022-10-02T19:21:04.284Z DRIVER beginning interview... 2022-10-02T19:21:04.286Z DRIVER added request handler for AddNodeToNetwork (0x4a)... 1 registered 2022-10-02T19:21:04.286Z DRIVER added request handler for RemoveNodeFromNetwork (0x4b)... 1 registered 2022-10-02T19:21:04.286Z DRIVER added request handler for ReplaceFailedNode (0x63)... 1 registered 2022-10-02T19:21:04.287Z CNTRLR querying controller IDs... 2022-10-02T19:21:04.484Z SERIAL » 0x01030020dc (5 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:04.485Z DRIVER » [REQ] [GetControllerId] 2022-10-02T19:21:04.487Z SERIAL « 0x0123000400511a9f039900b834787d066515a4b79c45bb3af55ea7f6203006010 (37 bytes) 80120c84d 2022-10-02T19:21:04.489Z SERIAL « [DISCARDED] invalid data 0x9ef4 (2 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:04.490Z DRIVER Dropping message because it contains invalid data 2022-10-02T19:21:04.490Z SERIAL » [NAK] (0x15) 2022-10-02T19:21:05.488Z CNTRLR Failed to execute controller command after 1/3 attempts. Scheduling next try i n 100 ms. 2022-10-02T19:21:05.591Z SERIAL » 0x01030020dc (5 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:05.592Z DRIVER » [REQ] [GetControllerId] 2022-10-02T19:21:06.596Z CNTRLR Failed to execute controller command after 2/3 attempts. Scheduling next try i n 1100 ms. 2022-10-02T19:21:07.698Z SERIAL » 0x01030020dc (5 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:07.699Z DRIVER » [REQ] [GetControllerId] 2022-10-02T19:21:08.717Z DRIVER Failed to initialize the driver: ZWaveError: Timeout while waiting for an ACK from the controller (ZW0200) at Driver.sendMessage (/usr/src/app/node_modules/zwave-js/src/lib/driver/D river.ts:3980:23) at ZWaveController.identify (/usr/src/app/node_modules/zwave-js/src/lib/co ntroller/Controller.ts:713:33) at Driver.initializeControllerAndNodes (/usr/src/app/node_modules/zwave-js /src/lib/driver/Driver.ts:1207:26) at Immediate.<anonymous> (/usr/src/app/node_modules/zwave-js/src/lib/drive r/Driver.ts:1014:16) 2022-10-02T19:21:08.723Z DRIVER destroying driver instance... 2022-10-02T19:21:08.728Z DRIVER driver instance destroyed 2022-10-02T19:21:08.739Z DRIVER ███████╗ ██╗ ██╗ █████╗ ██╗ ██╗ ███████╗ ██╗ ███████╗ ╚══███╔╝ ██║ ██║ ██╔══██╗ ██║ ██║ ██╔════╝ ██║ ██╔════╝ ███╔╝ ██║ █╗ ██║ ███████║ ██║ ██║ █████╗ █████╗ ██║ ███████╗ ███╔╝ ██║███╗██║ ██╔══██║ ╚██╗ ██╔╝ ██╔══╝ ╚════╝ ██ ██║ ╚════██║ ███████╗ ╚███╔███╔╝ ██║ ██║ ╚████╔╝ ███████╗ ╚█████╔╝ ███████║ ╚══════╝ ╚══╝╚══╝ ╚═╝ ╚═╝ ╚═══╝ ╚══════╝ ╚════╝ ╚══════╝ 2022-10-02T19:21:08.740Z DRIVER version 10.2.0 2022-10-02T19:21:08.740Z DRIVER 2022-10-02T19:21:08.740Z DRIVER starting driver... 2022-10-02T19:21:08.745Z DRIVER opening serial port /dev/zwave 2022-10-02T19:21:08.751Z DRIVER serial port opened 2022-10-02T19:21:08.752Z SERIAL » [NAK] (0x15) 2022-10-02T19:21:08.754Z DRIVER loading configuration... 2022-10-02T19:21:08.755Z SERIAL « 0x01080120c84d9ef40138 (10 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:08.757Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:21:08.758Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetControllerId]
I have an old analog intercom (Golmar) that has this horrible buzz sound when someone rings my apartment from the buildings front gate. This becomes very annoying at night so I need to make this buzz silent from 10:00pm till 7:00am
I have a "Shelly Plus 1" connected to the intercom. (wire #0 and wire #3 are responsible for closing the circuit for the buzzer).
I have set Webhooks and Scenes, but my wiring does not work. Can anyone tell me what i have done wrong?
Wiring Shelly 1 plus v12.1.png Golmar intercom current wiring.png
Well with all that has been going on with Vera/eZlo, many people are abandoning the Vera hubs and moving on to other solutions, such as Hubitat (my case), HASS, HA, and many other controllers.
In the past, I had already been informed that when the migration was over, my Vera would go to the incinerator, or under the wheel of my car, and of course, I did not comply.
So I wanted to open a debate, for those who have not yet sold their Vera on eBay, are with the equipment idle, what destination could be given?
I see many saying that it has become a laboratory, I don't see much sense, since it is becoming obsolete and without a drive. But it can be a destiny. Has anyone thought about whether it is feasible to change the hub's SO so that it becomes a host for MSR, for example? Or even Home Assistance? I have no knowledge, but it seems to me that processor and memory have to do something like that, already has embedded wifi and network.
Does anyone have any idea if it is possible to give this equipment a destination other than a box?
I just started [uncloud] forum to gather in one central place all smart devices working without the cloud, since this is not information easily available on the Internet.
I thought this might interest some users of this forum and any feedback are welcome.
And let me know if you know more devices that I should add to the list!
Good afternoon. Due to the new ezlo not being available in europe yet, I wanted to change the z-wave getway that works with the reactor to add to the home assistant. What advises?
I didn't see an existing Topic for heating-ventilation-air conditioning, so here goes...
Is anyone successfully controlling a "mini split" (i.e. ductless) A/C or heat pump system at home? I will be adding such a system soon to new construction, and wondered if certain brands/models interface better via Z-Wave or WiFi than others in a HA setting.
I know a bunch of these "splits" come with handheld remotes, but having robust Home Automation control (preferably without a dedicated plug-in needed on the Vera side) would be idea.
Happy to hear suggestions. Thanks!Libra
I have a legacy Vera system that in my home and I need to add a few devices to a cottage on my property. The Vera zwave won't see devices that far away. Both the house and cottage are on the same LAN. Can I bridged an Ezlo Plus to my existing Vera plus and if so are there instructions?
Is it just me or the GE/Jasco switch or very sensible to power outage ?
Almost each time we have a power outage, I need to replace at least 1 switch to replace.
Each time, same behaviour, the blue led is flashing rapidely and nothing works.
Last power outage, I got 3 switches. 95% of our switch and dimmer are GE/Jasco.
About one month ago I got a new electrical meter in the house. The new meter is a "smart" meter equipped with a data port. It is more or less the same type of meter that is used in a number of European countries, e.g. The Netherlands, Belgium, Sweden etc.
Norway has selected a different version with a RJ45 port with another protocol.
The dataport is a serial "P1" port in the form of a RJ12 contact that sends quite a lot of data every 10 seconds:
The data will show both consumption and production if you e.g. have solar panels at home.
My initial though was to use the Tasmota P1 Smart Meter with Mqtt. I tried this and it works, but unfortunately I got some serial data errors every 5-10th message for some reason so I decided to try another solution.
I found a few other alternatives and tested one of them. The upside with this version is that it is adapted to the Swedish data fomat that differs from the Dutch a bit and that it delivers the data in Mqtt form:
The hardware is pretty simple. For the Tasmota variant and most of the other solutions you need a ESP8266, e.g. a Wemos mini and then a transistor and two resistors (image below). The version I use is even simpler since it does not need the transistor.
For a lot of the meters delivered (DSMR 5 versions if I am right) you can power the ESP from the 5V provided in the RJ12 port, very handy.
It is also possible to buy a readymade P1 meter, this one looks quite nice, although I have not tested it.
In order to get a good overview of the data from the meter I have started creating a dashboard in Grafana that gets data from Historian in OpenLuup. It is quite useful to be able to see the load over time per phase etc.
I also managed to grab the hourly prices in json format and display that in the dashboard via some lua code in a scene.
At the moment I have built no logic around this, but it opens up posibilities for sure. In Sweden the electrical tarrifs will change from daily rates to being higher when demand is higher, perhaps then this can be used.
All in all a fun DIY project that provides some useful data out of the electrical meter. 🙂
I am new to this forum. I have been building an Alexa-based smart home for a few years. Overall, works well. I have a curious problem with a smart light. I set up a Kasa smart bulb in a ceiling can fixture. It worked well for at least 2 years. Then it began turning on randomly. Eventually, it began turning off randomly.I swapped out an identical bulb from another fixture and the problem persisted. I just replaced the ceiling fixture with a new one, properly installed, and the problem remained.
I replaced the Kasa bulb with a PlusMinus bulb. I can control it correctly, but the replacement bulb behaves in the same random on/off way.
Any ideas? I am at a loss!
So, I’m searching for something to send SkyQ’s infrared remote IR from a different room. I have a Logitech Harmony box, but it’s out of sight, so I’m just using the app, but a remote is definitely better, since the tv is in the master bedroom and the skyq box is downstairs.
I’ve searched for something like an IR device capturing and sending the codes via network to the box, but I’m not finding anything. I’m not 100% sure a wireless transmitter will work, since my house is all concrete and signals from other floors are usually blocked.
Not 100% home automation, I know, but is there anything I could do? Thanks.
Water level sensor
I'm in the middle of adding a water tank, because the latest summers were very hot and we had our water restricted, sometimes for weeks and for extended hours during the day (from 7 am to 5 pm).
It should be automatic, thanks to pressure sensors, so it will integrate water when needed (and the main line is open), switch the pump, etc. But I want to add a water level sensor nonetheless, to monitor it if necessary. I will probably just double this project and automate the pool refill as well, since I'm doing it manually at the moment.
I took a look and a lot of people are using Zunos, but I'm not sure I want to spend so much on a so simple system.
Pre-built solutions are OK. Thanks!
rafale77 last edited by rafale77
Does it need to be analog or digital would suffice?
I remember years ago using an analog ultrasonic sensor for sensing liquid level from the top without having to immerse it. It would then be about sending that signal to zwave or any other wireless protocol. It was relatively cheap to do.
If a digital level would suffice then 2 immersed water sensors would do? One for full and one for empty? Then I have a couple of such zwave water sensors. Since it is water and non corrosive it would probably be ok?
Ecolink has one:
yep. my first idea was to place 2/3 sensors, but I'll probably explore the ultrasonic way. I'm open to wifi (there's good coverage) and I still have a spare Fibaro smart implant (even if I had to remove one from my weather station, because it was unreliable and I had to frequently restart it - probably for heat).
I'll explore the ESP*+ultrasonic sensor route, even if I'm not very proficient with electronics. Thanks for the suggestion!
One option would be to use MySensors. This is a cheap way of adding various Arduino sensors to OpenLuup. You set up an Ethernet gateway and then each sensor is connected to the gateway wirelessly. There is a MySensors plugin that works in OpenLuup.
This looks like an interesting project, that you perhaps can get inspiration from: Round water tank level sensor
akbooer last edited by
A pressure sensor in the bottom would be a good solution.
What is used in car fuel tanks?
rafale77 last edited by rafale77
@akbooer said in Water level sensor:
What is used in car fuel tanks?
Usually it's a float with a rod, actuating a potentiometer. (variable resistor)
Not sure about the pressure sensor as it depends on the shape of the tank (how deep the tank is) and it will be exposed to atmospheric pressure variations. The advantage of the ultrasonic one is that it is non contact and won't grow stuff in the water.
CatmanV2 last edited by
@rafale77 said in Water level sensor:
@akbooer said in Water level sensor:
What is used in car fuel tanks?
Usually it's a float with a rod, actuating a potentiometer. (variable resistor)
Two (high and low)of these(bare wire):
And two of these:
Ecolink Intelligent Technology Z-Wave Easy Install, Battery Operated, Door/Window Sensor, White & Brown (DWZWAVE2-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPIYJWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3Je6Eb7ECMY2V
And bob’s your uncle
Elcid last edited by
I like to keep thing simple so i would go with a float switch.
One other thing in the UK we do not store drinking water, the only water storage in the uk is for filling baths and toilets. Do you intend to attach this tank to your drinking water pipes/tapes?
@ArcherS thanks for the input. I have various WiFi devices around the house, so I’ll probably add another one. I’ll go with MQTT, since I have a bridge to Vera I use to bridge other devices (tasmota, Sonoff, my own).
Thanks anyone for the suggestion. Now to find some pre built device template to borrow.
@Elcid yep, it’s allowed to drink, via chemicals to be added every now and then. I successfully intercepted the alert the public water company is dispatching, so maybe I can empty/fill on demand.
I was exploring a UV based solution too, but I want to start easy. I will probably add this and automate everything in the future.
Elcid last edited by Elcid
Ok just thought i would bring up the health risks, advice i read is its best to limit the tank size for drinking so the water does not sit for long and is replaced regularly. You sound like you know what you are doing. good luck
that's correct. the water needs to be refreshed often and never stay in the tank (if you're not correcting it with chemicals - that's a small capsule intended for drinking water consumption).
since it's hot here during the summer and the water pipes are public, there's a lot of leaks and the water is never enough (to be honest, I'm living in a zone with lots of water, but we're exporting to neighbor regions as well). so, this kind of implant is very common, from houses to restaurants, etc.
these thanks are UV resistant, can handle -40/+60° C and is algae/mold proof. they're specifically intended for drinking water.
my house implants were already done when I bought it, so I had to use the current configuration, but it's becoming common to separate toilets pipe/garden pipes and use rain or a pump to get non-drink water. I guess you can make it more complex if you want, as with everything
Elcid last edited by
Best to shade tank from sun and keep it as cool as possible to, even if the tank is uv proof, the cooler the water the better.
@Elcid it’s inside the house. I think it’s mandatory for drink water.
Float valves fail. Regularly. Pressure switch has no moving parts and has been significantly more reliable for me.
So, after consulting with a friend into NodeMCU, I'm going for
- NodeMCU esp8266 (flashed with Tasmota, so MQTT)
- JSN-SR04T Waterproof Ultranosic Distance sensor
I will probably write a MQTT to openluup bridge, if time allows. I'm getting a couple from Amazon, and tons from AliExpress for further projects. I will probably consolidate my weather station and place a couple of addition temperature sensors across the house.
I'll probably order other sensors, just to experiment.
Keep us posted. I’m very interested in this.
@prophead since I'm not that good into soldering, I always choose plug&play projects
I already have a couple of Tasmota devices: one to monitor temperature in my pool and one for humidity in my open space, to trigger a dehumidifier (large windows, helpful during the winter) and they're quite plug&play, after you've flashed Tasmota.
You can poll data easily, thanks to their API (I developed my virtual devices plug-in for this) or integrate real-time change notification with MQTT, or use both. I have MQTT with a custom C# app bridging to virtual devices.
The only problem is they are Wi-Fi based, so I don't want to have too many, because I really prefer Z-Wave and its mesh topology. But they're cheap and can be integrated with every sensor on the planet, quite easily.
I'll probably build a prototype next week and I'll report back.
I am building a infinityppool to a customer and I use a Pressure-type level sensor #12086 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCe_wYQ_BC0