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DIY HomeKey locks via Reactor
therealdbT

We're working on a (giant) new door for our house, and I'm exploring HomeKey locks, because I have CarKey on my cars and I love it - but unfortunately, due to Apple and their demands to have the lock and the reader all in a single hardware piece, door locks in Europe with HomeKey are few - and the few available are after market solutions, so not aesthetically WAF-approved. And then, I wondered, how cool could it be to open the garage door with the same HomeKey?

So I went down thru a rabbit hole and then found this:

GitHub - rednblkx/HomeKey-ESP32: ESP32 HomeKit Lock with support for Apple Home Key GitHub - rednblkx/HomeKey-ESP32: ESP32 HomeKit Lock with support for Apple Home Key

ESP32 HomeKit Lock with support for Apple Home Key - rednblkx/HomeKey-ESP32

I ordered a couple of things, and started tinkering. After a couple of hours, I had it implemented under Reactor via MQTT and on my desk, turning ON a light when the key is recognized. It costed about 20 bucks per entry, so not bad at all.

We only have iPhones at home, because of CarKeys and CarPlay - but we're not really using Home, so I had to buy an HomeHub in order to share the key - I got an Apple TV 4k that's basically just doing the HomeHub part. I'll eventually expose other things to Siri via Homebridge or HomeAssistant - or maybe not. HomeKey is the feature, for me.

Using Express mode, you just pass your watch/device on the reader and the key is recognized. You get the same key, but different device ID for a different watch/phone.

The logic is MQTT-based, so every time you pass a tag (MiFare is supported, but it's less secure because easily duplicable), you get a message at a given endpoint. You grab the keys via your virtual device, and check if they're valid in your own logic. I have a tag capability mapped to represent the key id, the device id, and a very easy logic to determine if the data is valid and the entry should be open. Remember, Key ID will be the same, Device ID will be unique across your devices (watches, phones) per person (the key is easily shareable in your family). See this screenshot:

e36899f0-2bf2-45b0-9c80-4e7593a0f7ba-image.png

You need to map the virtual lock in Reactor to the real status of the entry it's representing - but that's done using the lock capability of the device mapped via MQTT. See my template for it https://github.com/dbochicchio/reactor-mqtt-contrib
Setup is very easy.

Since the reader itself isn't doing anything special, it's the same security as a ZWave door lock: if they open the case, no contacts is exposed, since this is just a reader, where the security is inside your phone/watch. You have -of course - to use it to drive your real lock. Easy job for the garage, doable for the new proprietary lock for the door, with 12v input to unlock - via ZWave or whatever - and auto-lock feature.

A couple of photos of the various steps - and the final case I found for 5 bucks on Ali, to mount it securely outside (it had the original electronics and I took it apart to insert mine - I recommend a smaller ESP32 if you have better soldering skills than mine).

15b12d35-028e-4e90-8490-21e3eea82dbb-image.png

b9b9d242-211b-40bb-b8f1-6b2181c659b0-image.png

8a5975eb-479d-4937-8b16-53d058023dc1-image.png

cccfacf5-fc85-445a-89a7-70ba0db7cc9f-image.png

I'll mount it with the Garage Door outside - very handy during pool season, since this is the easiest way to the bathroom after some time chilling. It's powered by a 3,3 converter housed inside the house, eliminating the need for the bulky USB connector. The reader is completely covered, so the fact that is not really IP-6x is not a problem: it will not get splashes at all.

Feel free to ask me anything, if you want to embark into a new adventure.

Hardware
Scene Controllers -- What are you using?
toggledbitsT

A recent thread on supporting the ZRC-90 Z-Wave scene controller got me to wonder, what does everybody use and like?

I'll start... oh, and no dashboards. I want to hear from you all about dedicated scene controller devices. Dashboards and apps are great to a point, but my experience is that higher WAF is achieved with (a) a dedicated device (b) in a known location (c) with predictable functions and (d) no extra steps to operate (just walk up to it and push a button -- same effort as a light switch/dimmer). She's not wrong. It's a pain to unlock the phone, find the app, open the app, find the device, tap the device, when you can just walk across the room and push a button. Bonus points for something that can be labeled readably (low WAF for stuck-on tape/thermal labels).

I have a ZRC-90 and it's great, but it was temperamental to get working on Vera, and wasn't smooth sailing when it made the move to Z-Wave JS either. A couple of include/exclude cycles were needed to get it fully working on both. Since then, I've done a battery change, and while the buttons work as reliably as ever, the device continues to report the old battery level despite having a measurably fresh battery for over a year now. But I would still recommend it.

I have a Hank 4-button that is probably the best and most reliable battery-operated scene controller I have ever used. It's small and unobtrusive, so it lives on a lamp base in our living room and controls the room's mood lighting. I'm not sure they're still available. RIP.

I just ran across the Minoston MR40Z on Amazon, and I may try one of those. It looks like an installed (in-wall) Decora switch, but the buttons are actually a removable remote that you can pull off the wall and take to the couch. No line power required. Kinda cool. Maybe a good Hank replacement. But, I've never heard of this manufacturer before, and the concern is always "will I be able to buy more/replacements in one/two/five years?"

Among the wired controllers, the Zooz ZEN32 seems to be the most popular modern unit. I like it, but the LEDs are too small for my aging eyes to discern their color in daylight -- they are pin-head sized. Four of the five buttons are too small to label, so low WAF.

When I started my Z-Wave network, I used the Leviton four-button scene/zone controllers (VRCS4 and VRCZ4), and these are still all over my house. They're glitchy first-gen Z-Wave stuff (Vizia RF+ actually, so compatible but with proprietary features that aren't usable). They're now discontinued for Z-Wave. Leviton's newer units are WiFi, so if I go that route, it's HomeKit via Home Assistant for those.

During the pandemic lock-downs, I built a touch-screen scene controller using an Adafruit PyPortal. It had screens with 1 to 8 labeled, colorable soft buttons that could either perform a device function (i.e. publish to MQTT) or take you to another screen, so it was the love-child of scene controller and dashboard. Wife found it agreeable. But it was just a prototype. Memory limitation of the device was an issue because the PyPortal is really an inexpensive teaching device with a big load of Circuit Python overhead, and the graphic display needs a lot of RAM, so it was severely limited. I'm sure it could work out with the right micro and programming closer to the bare metal. Packaging and powering would also need to be addressed. And, at the end of the day, while "cute," it doesn't seem like something I would want to sell with the house if we ended up moving some day.

So, I'm interested in what others are doing and using, or more specifically, what your significant others are comfortable with and willing to use.

Hardware
20 amp smart physical switch (to control Infratech heater) - preferable to be outdoor rated, but any
O

Hi all, I'm looking for a 20 amp (minimum) smart switch (physical, so as to either tap switch or remote/Alexa/HomeKit/etc) so that I can control several outdoor Infratech heaters (220V). If they're outdoor rated, even better. Thanks.

Hardware
WiFi camera with scrub playback
Z

I have Wyze cameras and they’re mostly great but would like to find an IP camera that allows scrubbing on playback.
Any recommendations?

Hardware
Hubitat Elevation C-Series Controllers
LibraSunL

Welcome to our HE users! This new Q&A section is for you...

Hardware
LEDVANCE
O

Hi.
I have a ton of different Ledvance bulbs, pluggs sensors and lights.
So far everything works fine.
Bot there is one thing I want too figure out.

I can link lights with the sensor so the light turns on when I enter the room.
But I want to put a timer on it.
Like 5 min without movement and the light turns of. I just can't figure out how..

I use LVD app.

Screenshot_20230410_215348_Chrome.jpg

Hardware
Water Flow Meter & Shutoff
B

Hello - I'm building a new home with zwave throughout. I want to install a flow detection shutoff, and flow meter for three different areas - a pool autofiller, irrigation system, and the home usage. I'd like to be able to detect any leaks in the system, as well as see the flow/usage by each area. What would you recommend?

Hardware
chine version of homeypro to convert 433 to IR,wifi,Bluetooth,866,..?/
C

hello

i am searching for a universal hub that takes my 433 remotes signals and repeats them 433mhz or converts them into bluetooth, wifi, IR, z-wave etc…basically into all the other signals. so my 433mhz remote becomes a universal remote.

it should have an app to configurate, maybe a learning function as well

i belive the homey pro can do that but it costs like 400$ …right?

so is there a cheap “china” product that works like that for at least 433 into IR, bluetooth, wifi

there are so many chinaproducts and i cant figure out which can do which trick !/ this for example https://de.trck.one/redir/clickGate.php?u=Ha2Rd3xX&m=1&p=9yUI69TI8b&t=kLf5673Z&st=&s=&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.techpunt.nl%2Fde%2Fhomey-bridge.html%3Fgclid%3DCj0KCQiA9YugBhCZARIsAACXxeJvViv59ieDen9zOXTP1jhc_OisKQxPlCZOJsPGX20nWo7UROROuJcaAix5EALw_wcB&r=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hardwareluxx.de%2Fcommunity%2Fthreads%2Fbillige-chinaversion-von-homey-pro-gesucht.1333803%2F

i am working with 433mhz intertechno protokoll remotes .

please help

thanks, christoph

Hardware
Remote light switch
S

Looking for a simple solution that doesn't require running wire (replacing a switch receptacle is fine)

The problem: the only light switch in my garage is not near a door. So have to walk into the garage to turn the lights on.

Ideal Solution: physical remote I can stick on the wall next to the door to toggle a switch. Is there a product that is a toggle switch to replace the basic switch in the receptacle that I can also operate with a remote?

Hardware
ESP32 / ESP8266
akbooerA

Is anyone actively developing anything on these IoT chips?
In particular, using NodeMCU for Lua programmability?
Just got a development board to play with myself...

After a fruitless search for WiFI pulse utility meter readers (can't believe I couldn't find anything suitable) and also having resolved a while ago not to include any homebrew hardware in my HA configuration, I've decided in the end to try this out, after all.

Having cut my teeth on Lua, thanks to Vera, it seems promising to use it for development, rather than Arduino programming, and the hardware is SO much cheaper, smaller, and neater than a RPi or the like.

Any experiences welcomed!

AK

Hardware
Shelly i3 as a cheap scene controller for Openluup
therealdbT

Shelly i3 is an unbelievably cheap (9,99 EUR/USD) WiFi device that’s part of the fantastic Shelly family. It supports REST API, MQTT and much more.

https://shelly.cloud/knowledge-base/devices/shelly-i3/ 10

It’s just L,N and 3 inputs. No relays, so it’s a scene controller with bonus point to the fact that you can use your own buttons and keep the aesthetics of your house. Bonus points for WAF. It’s very small, so it will fit in your standard wall box easily.

While I built my own Scene Controller Virtual Device and I’m using MQTT for other devices of the family, Shelly can call your HTTP endpoints on button presses and in this case is more than enough.

The buttons support different actions (press, long press, double/triple press) and you can just call a service endpoint, or update a variable:
f3e509c0-f2a7-4f40-a099-af765e87c9fe-image.png

Go get it if you need a very cheap, very reliable scene controller for your home.

Hardware
Hue dimmer as replacement for MiniMote remote
akbooerA

Finally, I’ve found an adequate replacement for my beloved MiniMote four-button remotes (I’ve had nine of them for the last 10 years or so!). I should have realised this earlier, but with four buttons and approximately the same form factor, the Philips Hue remotes are viable replacements…

…however, they are, of course, Zigbee and not Zwave, but this doesn’t matter in my HA environment, which has now completely ditched Zwave and Vera for all lighting and control functions, and replaced them with Hue and Shelly devices. These are all brought together with a Homebridge installation running under Docker on Synology NAS with the Apple Home app as the UI. This gives, of course, both secure remote access and voice control.

The MiniMote buttons I had configured as scene triggers to do whatever I needed, most usually toggling lights. The same functionality is easily achieved within the Home app by appropriate shortcuts.

I’m still using openLuup as a secondary hub which mimics all the various devices using MQTT and the ALTHUE plug-in and logs all device and sensor data using the built-in Historian and viewed through Grafana.

Works for me!

AK

Hardware
UZB Stick - Moving from Z-Way to Z-Wave JS
PerHP

After a long wait for an updated version of the rather crude and unfinished Z-Way integration to HASS, i'm now looking (reluctantly) in to replacing Z-Way with Z-wave JS..
Mind you this is a big existing network, not a new controller stick..

I threw up a docker for z-wave JS UI, and tried to connect it to the UZB stick.. It loads the whole network from the stick, but the driver keeps restarting?

Looking at the logs, I see a lot of Dropping message because the driver is not ready to handle it yet.

It seems like the stick just keeps talking like z-way was still listening? This ends up in the driver crashing repeatedly.. Any ideas to how I can get them talking?

In the code snippet below, you see the driver restarting with the graphic letters, seemingly while the stick is mid-sentence, or because of ACK timeout...

2022-10-02T19:19:59.664Z CNTRLR received additional controller information: Z-Wave API version: 6 (legacy) Z-Wave chip type: ZW050x node type Controller controller role: primary controller is the SIS: true controller supports timers: false nodes in the network: 1, 5, 6, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 18, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 32, 33, 34, 36, 37, 38, 39, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 4 7, 48, 52, 55, 69, 70, 71, 73, 74, 75, 77, 78, 79, 81, 82, 83 2022-10-02T19:19:59.765Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [Manufacturer Specific] manufacturerId: metadata updated 2022-10-02T19:19:59.766Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [Manufacturer Specific] productType: metadata updated 2022-10-02T19:19:59.767Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [Manufacturer Specific] productId: metadata updated 2022-10-02T19:19:59.768Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [+] [Manufacturer Specific] manufacturerId: 277 2022-10-02T19:19:59.769Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [+] [Manufacturer Specific] productType: 1024 2022-10-02T19:19:59.770Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [+] [Manufacturer Specific] productId: 1 2022-10-02T19:19:59.770Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [Version] firmwareVersions: metadata updated 2022-10-02T19:19:59.771Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [+] [Version] firmwareVersions: 5.39 2022-10-02T19:19:59.772Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [Version] sdkVersion: metadata updated 2022-10-02T19:19:59.772Z CNTRLR [Node 001] [+] [Version] sdkVersion: "6.9.0" 2022-10-02T19:19:59.772Z CNTRLR setting serial API timeouts: ack = 1000 ms, byte = 150 ms 2022-10-02T19:19:59.792Z SERIAL » 0x01050006640f97 (7 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:19:59.792Z DRIVER » [REQ] [SetSerialApiTimeouts] payload: 0x640f 2022-10-02T19:19:59.815Z SERIAL « [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:19:59.816Z SERIAL « 0x01050106640f96 (7 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:19:59.817Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.177Z DRIVER ███████╗ ██╗ ██╗ █████╗ ██╗ ██╗ ███████╗ ██╗ ███████╗ ╚══███╔╝ ██║ ██║ ██╔══██╗ ██║ ██║ ██╔════╝ ██║ ██╔════╝ ███╔╝ ██║ █╗ ██║ ███████║ ██║ ██║ █████╗ █████╗ ██║ ███████╗ ███╔╝ ██║███╗██║ ██╔══██║ ╚██╗ ██╔╝ ██╔══╝ ╚════╝ ██ ██║ ╚════██║ ███████╗ ╚███╔███╔╝ ██║ ██║ ╚████╔╝ ███████╗ ╚█████╔╝ ███████║ ╚══════╝ ╚══╝╚══╝ ╚═╝ ╚═╝ ╚═══╝ ╚══════╝ ╚════╝ ╚══════╝ 2022-10-02T19:21:03.178Z DRIVER version 10.2.0 2022-10-02T19:21:03.179Z DRIVER 2022-10-02T19:21:03.179Z DRIVER starting driver... 2022-10-02T19:21:03.199Z DRIVER opening serial port /dev/zwave 2022-10-02T19:21:03.212Z DRIVER serial port opened 2022-10-02T19:21:03.213Z SERIAL » [NAK] (0x15) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.229Z SERIAL « 0x01090141d39601020201f3 (11 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.232Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.233Z SERIAL « 0x01090141d39601020201f3 (11 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.234Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.234Z SERIAL « 0x01090141d39601020201f3 (11 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.234Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:21:03.261Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.268Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] [unexpected] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.268Z DRIVER unexpected response, discarding... 2022-10-02T19:21:03.268Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.271Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] [unexpected] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.271Z DRIVER unexpected response, discarding... 2022-10-02T19:21:03.271Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.273Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetNodeProtocolInfo] [unexpected] payload: 0xd39601020201 2022-10-02T19:21:03.274Z DRIVER unexpected response, discarding... 2022-10-02T19:21:03.274Z DRIVER loading configuration... 2022-10-02T19:21:03.298Z CONFIG Using external configuration dir /usr/src/app/store/.config-db 2022-10-02T19:21:03.298Z CONFIG version 10.2.0 2022-10-02T19:21:04.284Z DRIVER beginning interview... 2022-10-02T19:21:04.286Z DRIVER added request handler for AddNodeToNetwork (0x4a)... 1 registered 2022-10-02T19:21:04.286Z DRIVER added request handler for RemoveNodeFromNetwork (0x4b)... 1 registered 2022-10-02T19:21:04.286Z DRIVER added request handler for ReplaceFailedNode (0x63)... 1 registered 2022-10-02T19:21:04.287Z CNTRLR querying controller IDs... 2022-10-02T19:21:04.484Z SERIAL » 0x01030020dc (5 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:04.485Z DRIVER » [REQ] [GetControllerId] 2022-10-02T19:21:04.487Z SERIAL « 0x0123000400511a9f039900b834787d066515a4b79c45bb3af55ea7f6203006010 (37 bytes) 80120c84d 2022-10-02T19:21:04.489Z SERIAL « [DISCARDED] invalid data 0x9ef4 (2 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:04.490Z DRIVER Dropping message because it contains invalid data 2022-10-02T19:21:04.490Z SERIAL » [NAK] (0x15) 2022-10-02T19:21:05.488Z CNTRLR Failed to execute controller command after 1/3 attempts. Scheduling next try i n 100 ms. 2022-10-02T19:21:05.591Z SERIAL » 0x01030020dc (5 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:05.592Z DRIVER » [REQ] [GetControllerId] 2022-10-02T19:21:06.596Z CNTRLR Failed to execute controller command after 2/3 attempts. Scheduling next try i n 1100 ms. 2022-10-02T19:21:07.698Z SERIAL » 0x01030020dc (5 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:07.699Z DRIVER » [REQ] [GetControllerId] 2022-10-02T19:21:08.717Z DRIVER Failed to initialize the driver: ZWaveError: Timeout while waiting for an ACK from the controller (ZW0200) at Driver.sendMessage (/usr/src/app/node_modules/zwave-js/src/lib/driver/D river.ts:3980:23) at ZWaveController.identify (/usr/src/app/node_modules/zwave-js/src/lib/co ntroller/Controller.ts:713:33) at Driver.initializeControllerAndNodes (/usr/src/app/node_modules/zwave-js /src/lib/driver/Driver.ts:1207:26) at Immediate.<anonymous> (/usr/src/app/node_modules/zwave-js/src/lib/drive r/Driver.ts:1014:16) 2022-10-02T19:21:08.723Z DRIVER destroying driver instance... 2022-10-02T19:21:08.728Z DRIVER driver instance destroyed 2022-10-02T19:21:08.739Z DRIVER ███████╗ ██╗ ██╗ █████╗ ██╗ ██╗ ███████╗ ██╗ ███████╗ ╚══███╔╝ ██║ ██║ ██╔══██╗ ██║ ██║ ██╔════╝ ██║ ██╔════╝ ███╔╝ ██║ █╗ ██║ ███████║ ██║ ██║ █████╗ █████╗ ██║ ███████╗ ███╔╝ ██║███╗██║ ██╔══██║ ╚██╗ ██╔╝ ██╔══╝ ╚════╝ ██ ██║ ╚════██║ ███████╗ ╚███╔███╔╝ ██║ ██║ ╚████╔╝ ███████╗ ╚█████╔╝ ███████║ ╚══════╝ ╚══╝╚══╝ ╚═╝ ╚═╝ ╚═══╝ ╚══════╝ ╚════╝ ╚══════╝ 2022-10-02T19:21:08.740Z DRIVER version 10.2.0 2022-10-02T19:21:08.740Z DRIVER 2022-10-02T19:21:08.740Z DRIVER starting driver... 2022-10-02T19:21:08.745Z DRIVER opening serial port /dev/zwave 2022-10-02T19:21:08.751Z DRIVER serial port opened 2022-10-02T19:21:08.752Z SERIAL » [NAK] (0x15) 2022-10-02T19:21:08.754Z DRIVER loading configuration... 2022-10-02T19:21:08.755Z SERIAL « 0x01080120c84d9ef40138 (10 bytes) 2022-10-02T19:21:08.757Z SERIAL » [ACK] (0x06) 2022-10-02T19:21:08.758Z DRIVER « [RES] [GetControllerId]
Hardware
Intercom Buzzer wiring with Shelly Plus 1
M

Hi,
I have an old analog intercom (Golmar) that has this horrible buzz sound when someone rings my apartment from the buildings front gate. This becomes very annoying at night so I need to make this buzz silent from 10:00pm till 7:00am
I have a "Shelly Plus 1" connected to the intercom. (wire #0 and wire #3 are responsible for closing the circuit for the buzzer).
I have set Webhooks and Scenes, but my wiring does not work. Can anyone tell me what i have done wrong?

Cheers!

Wiring Shelly 1 plus v12.1.png Golmar intercom current wiring.png

Hardware
Any decent destination for a Vera Plus?
wmarcolinW

Well with all that has been going on with Vera/eZlo, many people are abandoning the Vera hubs and moving on to other solutions, such as Hubitat (my case), HASS, HA, and many other controllers.

In the past, I had already been informed that when the migration was over, my Vera would go to the incinerator, or under the wheel of my car, and of course, I did not comply.

So I wanted to open a debate, for those who have not yet sold their Vera on eBay, are with the equipment idle, what destination could be given?

I see many saying that it has become a laboratory, I don't see much sense, since it is becoming obsolete and without a drive. But it can be a destiny. Has anyone thought about whether it is feasible to change the hub's SO so that it becomes a host for MSR, for example? Or even Home Assistance? I have no knowledge, but it seems to me that processor and memory have to do something like that, already has embedded wifi and network.

Does anyone have any idea if it is possible to give this equipment a destination other than a box?

Hardware
List of smart devices with no cloud requirement
M

I just started [uncloud] forum to gather in one central place all smart devices working without the cloud, since this is not information easily available on the Internet.

I thought this might interest some users of this forum and any feedback are welcome.
And let me know if you know more devices that I should add to the list!

- Marco

Hardware
Z-wave serie 700 Europe/ Reactor/ Home Assistant
A

Good afternoon. Due to the new ezlo not being available in europe yet, I wanted to change the z-wave getway that works with the reactor to add to the home assistant. What advises?
Thanks

Hardware
HVAC Control
LibraSunL

I didn't see an existing Topic for heating-ventilation-air conditioning, so here goes...

Is anyone successfully controlling a "mini split" (i.e. ductless) A/C or heat pump system at home? I will be adding such a system soon to new construction, and wondered if certain brands/models interface better via Z-Wave or WiFi than others in a HA setting.

I know a bunch of these "splits" come with handheld remotes, but having robust Home Automation control (preferably without a dedicated plug-in needed on the Vera side) would be idea.

Happy to hear suggestions. Thanks!

Libra
Hardware
Can a Ezlo Plus be bridged to a Vera Plus
L

I have a legacy Vera system that in my home and I need to add a few devices to a cottage on my property. The Vera zwave won't see devices that far away. Both the house and cottage are on the same LAN. Can I bridged an Ezlo Plus to my existing Vera plus and if so are there instructions?

Hardware
GE/Jasco Z-wave wall switch
DesTD

Hey guys...

Is it just me or the GE/Jasco switch or very sensible to power outage ?

Almost each time we have a power outage, I need to replace at least 1 switch to replace.

Each time, same behaviour, the blue led is flashing rapidely and nothing works.

Last power outage, I got 3 switches. 95% of our switch and dimmer are GE/Jasco.

Hardware

Water level sensor

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  • therealdbT Offline
    therealdbT Offline
    therealdb
    wrote on last edited by
    #1

    I'm in the middle of adding a water tank, because the latest summers were very hot and we had our water restricted, sometimes for weeks and for extended hours during the day (from 7 am to 5 pm).

    It should be automatic, thanks to pressure sensors, so it will integrate water when needed (and the main line is open), switch the pump, etc. But I want to add a water level sensor nonetheless, to monitor it if necessary. I will probably just double this project and automate the pool refill as well, since I'm doing it manually at the moment.

    I took a look and a lot of people are using Zunos, but I'm not sure I want to spend so much on a so simple system.
    Pre-built solutions are OK. Thanks!

    --
    On a mission to automate everything.

    My MS Reactor contrib
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    • rafale77R Offline
      rafale77R Offline
      rafale77
      wrote on last edited by rafale77
      #2

      Does it need to be analog or digital would suffice?
      I remember years ago using an analog ultrasonic sensor for sensing liquid level from the top without having to immerse it. It would then be about sending that signal to zwave or any other wireless protocol. It was relatively cheap to do.

      If a digital level would suffice then 2 immersed water sensors would do? One for full and one for empty? Then I have a couple of such zwave water sensors. Since it is water and non corrosive it would probably be ok?

      Ecolink has one:

      Amazon.com: Ecolink Zwave Plus Flood & Freeze Sensor, White (FLF-ZWAVE5-ECO) : Electronics
      Aeotec too:

      Aeotec Water Sensor, Z-Wave Flood & Leak Sensor - Amazon.com
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      • therealdbT Offline
        therealdbT Offline
        therealdb
        wrote on last edited by
        #3

        yep. my first idea was to place 2/3 sensors, but I'll probably explore the ultrasonic way. I'm open to wifi (there's good coverage) and I still have a spare Fibaro smart implant (even if I had to remove one from my weather station, because it was unreliable and I had to frequently restart it - probably for heat).

        I'll explore the ESP*+ultrasonic sensor route, even if I'm not very proficient with electronics. Thanks for the suggestion!

        --
        On a mission to automate everything.

        My MS Reactor contrib
        My Luup Plug-ins

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        • A Offline
          A Offline
          ArcherS
          wrote on last edited by
          #4

          One option would be to use MySensors. This is a cheap way of adding various Arduino sensors to OpenLuup. You set up an Ethernet gateway and then each sensor is connected to the gateway wirelessly. There is a MySensors plugin that works in OpenLuup.

          This looks like an interesting project, that you perhaps can get inspiration from: Round water tank level sensor

          Good luck!

          therealdbT 1 Reply Last reply
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          • akbooerA Offline
            akbooerA Offline
            akbooer
            wrote on last edited by
            #5

            A pressure sensor in the bottom would be a good solution.

            What is used in car fuel tanks?

            rafale77R 1 Reply Last reply
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            • rafale77R Offline
              rafale77R Offline
              rafale77
              replied to akbooer on last edited by rafale77
              #6

              @akbooer said in Water level sensor:

              What is used in car fuel tanks?

              Usually it's a float with a rod, actuating a potentiometer. (variable resistor)
              Not sure about the pressure sensor as it depends on the shape of the tank (how deep the tank is) and it will be exposed to atmospheric pressure variations. The advantage of the ultrasonic one is that it is non contact and won't grow stuff in the water.

              CatmanV2C 1 Reply Last reply
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              • CatmanV2C Offline
                CatmanV2C Offline
                CatmanV2
                replied to rafale77 on last edited by
                #7

                @rafale77 said in Water level sensor:

                @akbooer said in Water level sensor:

                What is used in car fuel tanks?

                Usually it's a float with a rod, actuating a potentiometer. (variable resistor)

                This

                C

                The Ex-Vera abuser know as CatmanV2.....

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                • propheadP Offline
                  propheadP Offline
                  prophead
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #8

                  Two (high and low)of these(bare wire):

                  237 CAD

                  The Parrot ATO System

                  The Parrot ATO System

                  The Parrot ATO system Intelligent, observant, long lived, colorful and always repetitive, the Parrot will be the companion you won't know how you lived without. Along with the fun new name comes the pedigree of a proven winner. How do you make improvements to the ATO with an unrivaled reputation...

                  And two of these:
                  Ecolink Intelligent Technology Z-Wave Easy Install, Battery Operated, Door/Window Sensor, White & Brown (DWZWAVE2-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPIYJWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3Je6Eb7ECMY2V

                  And bob’s your uncle
                  |-<:)

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                  • ElcidE Offline
                    ElcidE Offline
                    Elcid
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #9

                    I like to keep thing simple so i would go with a float switch.
                    One other thing in the UK we do not store drinking water, the only water storage in the uk is for filling baths and toilets. Do you intend to attach this tank to your drinking water pipes/tapes?

                    therealdbT 1 Reply Last reply
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                    • therealdbT Offline
                      therealdbT Offline
                      therealdb
                      replied to ArcherS on last edited by
                      #10

                      @ArcherS thanks for the input. I have various WiFi devices around the house, so I’ll probably add another one. I’ll go with MQTT, since I have a bridge to Vera I use to bridge other devices (tasmota, Sonoff, my own).

                      Thanks anyone for the suggestion. Now to find some pre built device template to borrow.

                      --
                      On a mission to automate everything.

                      My MS Reactor contrib
                      My Luup Plug-ins

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                      • therealdbT Offline
                        therealdbT Offline
                        therealdb
                        replied to Elcid on last edited by
                        #11

                        @Elcid yep, it’s allowed to drink, via chemicals to be added every now and then. I successfully intercepted the alert the public water company is dispatching, so maybe I can empty/fill on demand.

                        I was exploring a UV based solution too, but I want to start easy. I will probably add this and automate everything in the future.

                        --
                        On a mission to automate everything.

                        My MS Reactor contrib
                        My Luup Plug-ins

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                        • ElcidE Offline
                          ElcidE Offline
                          Elcid
                          wrote on last edited by Elcid
                          #12

                          Ok just thought i would bring up the health risks, advice i read is its best to limit the tank size for drinking so the water does not sit for long and is replaced regularly. You sound like you know what you are doing. good luck

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                          • therealdbT Offline
                            therealdbT Offline
                            therealdb
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #13

                            that's correct. the water needs to be refreshed often and never stay in the tank (if you're not correcting it with chemicals - that's a small capsule intended for drinking water consumption).
                            since it's hot here during the summer and the water pipes are public, there's a lot of leaks and the water is never enough (to be honest, I'm living in a zone with lots of water, but we're exporting to neighbor regions as well). so, this kind of implant is very common, from houses to restaurants, etc.
                            these thanks are UV resistant, can handle -40/+60° C and is algae/mold proof. they're specifically intended for drinking water.
                            my house implants were already done when I bought it, so I had to use the current configuration, but it's becoming common to separate toilets pipe/garden pipes and use rain or a pump to get non-drink water. I guess you can make it more complex if you want, as with everything 🙂

                            --
                            On a mission to automate everything.

                            My MS Reactor contrib
                            My Luup Plug-ins

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                            • ElcidE Offline
                              ElcidE Offline
                              Elcid
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #14

                              Best to shade tank from sun and keep it as cool as possible to, even if the tank is uv proof, the cooler the water the better.

                              therealdbT 1 Reply Last reply
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                              • therealdbT Offline
                                therealdbT Offline
                                therealdb
                                replied to Elcid on last edited by
                                #15

                                @Elcid it’s inside the house. I think it’s mandatory for drink water.

                                --
                                On a mission to automate everything.

                                My MS Reactor contrib
                                My Luup Plug-ins

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                                • propheadP Offline
                                  propheadP Offline
                                  prophead
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #16

                                  Float valves fail. Regularly. Pressure switch has no moving parts and has been significantly more reliable for me.

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                                  • therealdbT Offline
                                    therealdbT Offline
                                    therealdb
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #17

                                    So, after consulting with a friend into NodeMCU, I'm going for

                                    • NodeMCU esp8266 (flashed with Tasmota, so MQTT)
                                    • JSN-SR04T Waterproof Ultranosic Distance sensor
                                    HC-SR04 ultrasonic ranging sensor - Tasmota

                                    I will probably write a MQTT to openluup bridge, if time allows. I'm getting a couple from Amazon, and tons from AliExpress for further projects. I will probably consolidate my weather station and place a couple of addition temperature sensors across the house.
                                    I'll probably order other sensors, just to experiment.

                                    --
                                    On a mission to automate everything.

                                    My MS Reactor contrib
                                    My Luup Plug-ins

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                                    • propheadP Offline
                                      propheadP Offline
                                      prophead
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #18

                                      Keep us posted. I’m very interested in this.

                                      therealdbT 1 Reply Last reply
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                                      • therealdbT Offline
                                        therealdbT Offline
                                        therealdb
                                        replied to prophead on last edited by
                                        #19

                                        @prophead since I'm not that good into soldering, I always choose plug&play projects 😄
                                        I already have a couple of Tasmota devices: one to monitor temperature in my pool and one for humidity in my open space, to trigger a dehumidifier (large windows, helpful during the winter) and they're quite plug&play, after you've flashed Tasmota.

                                        You can poll data easily, thanks to their API (I developed my virtual devices plug-in for this) or integrate real-time change notification with MQTT, or use both. I have MQTT with a custom C# app bridging to virtual devices.
                                        The only problem is they are Wi-Fi based, so I don't want to have too many, because I really prefer Z-Wave and its mesh topology. But they're cheap and can be integrated with every sensor on the planet, quite easily.

                                        I'll probably build a prototype next week and I'll report back.

                                        --
                                        On a mission to automate everything.

                                        My MS Reactor contrib
                                        My Luup Plug-ins

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                                        • M Offline
                                          M Offline
                                          Matteburk
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #20

                                          I am building a infinityppool to a customer and I use a Pressure-type level sensor #12086 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCe_wYQ_BC0

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