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Hello!
I want to trigger an event (like switching on a smart Zigbee power plug) when a regular light switch (that switches regular non-smart LED light bulbs) is flipped. Is there something I can put behind a light switch to achieve this? Or something to splice in between the switch and the light bulbs? A good option would also be Hue compatible.
Thank you!
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Hi,
Is anyone aware of any way in which Bluetooth devices can be connected and controlled via a home automation controller, such as Vera / openluup (even NodeRed, HASS) etc ?
I recall Bluetooth was an original ‘feature’ on the Veraplus but that soon died a death, and was never heard of again.
What, if anything are people doing with Bluetooth ?
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Hi,
I have a lua/luup piece of code that checks, if any motion sensors have been tripped within the last 20 mins, and if not then to let me know.
I then look at pinging TVs to see if they are on, in order to help rule out if someone’s just sitting still, and then I look at bluetooth sensors (RoomMe) and also Wi-Fi devices (UniFi) to help identify specific people’s active devices.
I know there’s no perfect solution, but I was wondering what are other people using ?
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Considering how long I’ve been using HA systems, where I was a relatively early adopter of z-wave, I’ve never really explored the Z-Wave Classes and Commands.
Don’t get me wrong I understand (well at least I think I do) the overall objective and the design of the classes and the command, but my exposure to it has always been hidden behind a software/application layer.. No bad thing your might say, but the more I got to know the Lua language , the more I wanted to know more about the Z-wave Classes and Command - and how I could interact with them a little more directly.
FYI - I’m still very much in the learning phase, and welcome any insight/advice from those more experienced than me.
For this particular ‘How To’, I’m going to start off with a link to all the recorded z-wave classes and commands, this is a great place to see the length and breadth of what z-wave supports.
https://www.silabs.com/documents/login/miscellaneous/SDS13548-List-of-defined-Z-Wave-Command-Classes.xlsxMy first objective is to see if I can request a battery report from a device.. (Make sure your device support this class)
To do that I need to look up the Commands_Class for Battery, and note down it’s associated value, which in this case is 0x80
COMMAND_CLASS_BATTERY 0x80 Management ActiveAfter that, I then need to get the value associated with the specific command I want to send, which in this case is the Battery Get one from the following list..
BATTERY_GET 0x02 controlling supporting BATTERY_REPORT 0x03 supporting controlling BATTERY_HEALTH_GET 0x04 controlling supporting BATTERY_HEALTH_REPORT 0x05 supporting controllingThose two looks up have now provided me with the following two item values …
Battery Command Class = 0x80 BATTERY_HEALTH_GET Command = 0x04Next I need to send them to my Vera/Z-wave controller , specifying the z-wave ‘node’ I want to target (make sure it is the node number (alt.I’d, NOT the Device No.) , which in this case is node 3 (device no. 64) - using a command like the following....
luup.call_action('urn:micasaverde-com:serviceId:ZWaveNetwork1','SendData',{Node='3',Data='0x80 0x04'},1)Or externally..
http://192.168.1.10/port_3480/data_request?id=action&DeviceNum=1&serviceId=urn:micasaverde-com:serviceId:ZWaveNetwork1&action=SendData&Node=3&Data=0x80-0x04Any/all feedback welcome..
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Hi
I came across this a while ago, but couldn’t get it to work at the time, however I was just checking it again, and noticed openluup was mentioned in some of the code, so I was wondering, is anyone on this forum using it ?
GitHub - steets250/vera-ring: Plugin allowing Vera controllers to connect with Ring devices. GitHub - steets250/vera-ring: Plugin allowing Vera controllers to connect with Ring devices.Plugin allowing Vera controllers to connect with Ring devices. - GitHub - steets250/vera-ring: Plugin allowing Vera controllers to connect with Ring devices.
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So I live out in a rural area and there are no good internet providers besides Hughesnet, or using a mobile hotspot. My question is can you have a home network witha hub nut no wifi? I mainly would just want a few smart light switches, maybe a RGB Phillips HUE light here and there, and maybe even a camarea to watch my driveway and send me alerts when someone is there (while I'm there obviously) because we can't see our driveway from our living room. Was just curious to see if this would be possible or not. Our Verizon mobile hotspot works great while we are able to monitor it but sometimes it randomly shuts off even when it is plugged in. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
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A while back the z-wave module on my veraplus stopped working and as it couldnt be fixed, I bought an external usb z-wave dongle UZB1 (which I plugged in and setup on ‘port’ /dev/ttyACM0 ) which made it operational again, and I’ve been using it again since.
Recently I picked up a new (well 2nd hand) VeraPlus unit and tried to do a full system/zwave network restore from the original one, but it didn’t work.
The restore looked like it worked fine, as it brought everything over, but when nothing worked, I checked the z-wave ‘port’ settings on the new unit, and it too had been set to use an external usb (/dev/ttyACM0) which it obviously doesn’t have , but when I changed it back to the onboard zwave module (/dev/ttyS0) all the z-wave devices disappeared.
To fix this, it sounds like I need to do a controller shift to get the details off the UZB1 key and onto the zwave chip on the veraplus board ?
However not having done one before I’m not sure if the process is - any ideas ?
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Alexa Remote Control Shell ScriptI will update the plug-in very soon to support the new feature.
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General discussion on all things MQTT.
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Tried to google, but didn't find a proper solution. Linux environment is chrooted Debian 10 running on Synology NAS.
I created a normal user ("homer") and when trying to su to it with a command "su - homer", it takes about 50 seconds to complete.
Any ideas how to fix this?
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Hi all
I’ve recently started to build out my own ‘Homer’ dashboard (https://github.com/bastienwirtz/homer) and I must admit I really like what it’s given me.
Thinking about future use-cases. I can see potential for this being an alternative (albeit simple ) UI for Vera/OpenLuup..
Is anyone else using Homer ?
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Hi, simple starter question. As I am fully gone to homeassistant for eveything expect a legacy part of my zwave network devices in Vera. I have currently openzwave and vera and an empty (not turned on) zwavejs network. I knwo I can "migrate" openzwave "simply" to zwavejs by just using the aeotec gen5plus zwave stick to that. With the hassle of changing all device entity names I then have zwavejs and vera run separate. Nevertheless, I would like to end up with my vera devices in zwavjes... long story short, what would be the best way to move all my vera devices to zwavjs?
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Hi all
Ran into an issue last month where my Open Luup box ran out of disk space in /var/log. It's Debian with a separate partition so everything carried on working but it had some very interesting effects on my network.Culprit was the z-way server log which was at about 5G....
So I thought I'd set up logrotate on it. Dead simple. And so it seems. Log is rotate just fine but z-way-server carries on writing to the old log. Any ideas how to fix that (apart from re-starting the server every time we rotate?).
Entry from logrotate.d is here:
catman@openluup:/etc/logrotate.d$ cat z-way-server /var/log/z-way-server.log { weekly rotate 4 compress delaycompress missingok notifempty create 644 root root }z-way-server config:
<config> <automation-dir>automation</automation-dir> <log-file>/var/log/z-way-server.log</log-file> <log-level>2</log-level> <debug-port></debug-port> </config> config.xml (END)TIA
C
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This could be interesting.
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100% sure this is an Alexa issue, but just wanted to see if anyone else has it:
Alexa, turn $device on
$device turns on
'$device is not responding. Check its power supply and network connection'Alexa, turn $device off
$device turns off.
'OK'This happens with Alexa groups as well as HA Bridge devices.....
C
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Evening, everyone. Can't think of a better qualified bunch of people to ask so: What am I going to replace my Logitech Harmony with?
Logitech have stated they are moving out of the market and I am therefore disinclined to purchase the Elite, never mind the price tag....
Requirements are:
IR control of 5 devices (one of which is somewhat esoteric so learning IR pretty much a necessity) Ability to control HiFi as well as video kit (should be covered by 1 but whatever) Pre-programmed activities for one button access Favourite channels Rechargeable (nice to have) If it needs a computer to set up: Mac compatibleAnyone got a Pronto they'd sell me?
C
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Hi
In my ongoing quest to try and retrieve as much information as I can about the amount of energy I’m using , I found out that I could use SNMP to see how much power (watts) my UPS is handling .
To do this, I installed snmpd/snmp on my Vera linked Raspberry Pi, and then ran the following command.
local command = io.popen("ssh -i /etc/dropbear/dropbear_rsa_host_key pi@192.168.102.37 'snmpwalk -Os -c public -v 1 10.10.10.103' 2>&1") local response = command:read("*a") print(response)Which returned a huge amount of information, which prompted me to ask the community here if there anything on Vera/OpenLuup that people have that can process this sort of information into a new devices and associated variables to then monitor/track going forward ?
iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.1.0 = STRING: "Eaton 5P 1150" iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.2.0 = OID: iso.3.6.1.4.1.705.1 iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.3.0 = Timeticks: (51435090) 5 days, 22:52:30.90 iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.4.0 = STRING: "Computer Room Manager" iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.5.0 = STRING: "ups239" iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.6.0 = STRING: "Computer Room" iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.7.0 = INTEGER: 72 iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.8.0 = Timeticks: (0) 0:00:00.00 iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.9.1.2.1 = OID: iso.3.6.1.6.3.1 iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.9.1.2.2 = OID: iso.3.6.1.6.3.10.3.1.1 iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.9.1.2.3 = OID: iso.3.6.1.6.3.11.3.1.1 iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.9.1.2.4 = OID: iso.3.6.1.6.3.15.2.1.1 iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.9.1.2.5 = OID: iso.3.6.1.6.3.16.2.1.1 iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.9.1.3.1 = STRING: "The MIB Module from SNMPv2 entities" iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.9.1.3.2 = STRING: "SNMP Management Architecture MIB" iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.9.1.3.3 = STRING: "Message Processing and Dispatching MIB" iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.9.1.3.4 = STRING: "USM User MIB" iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.9.1.3.5 = STRING: "VACM MIB" iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.9.1.4.1 = Timeticks: (0) 0:00:00.00 iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.9.1.4.2 = Timeticks: (0) 0:00:00.00 iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.9.1.4.3 = Timeticks: (0) 0:00:00.00 iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.9.1.4.4 = Timeticks: (0) 0:00:00.00 iso.3.6.1.2.1.1.9.1.4.5 = Timeticks: (0) 0:00:00.00 iso.3.6.1.2.1.2.1.0 = INTEGER: 2 iso.3.6.1.2.1.2.2.1.1.1 = INTEGER: 1 iso.3.6.1.2.1.2.2.1.1.2 = INTEGER: 2 iso.3.6.1.2.1.2.2.1.2.1 = STRING: "LOOPBACK" iso.3.6.1.2.1.2.2.1.2.2 = STRING: "eth0" iso.3.6.1.2.1.2.2.1.3.1 = INTEGER: 24 iso.3.6.1.2.1.2.2.1.3.2 = INTEGER: 6 iso.3.6.1.2.1.2.2.1.4.1 = INTEGER: 1500 iso.3.6.1.2.1.2.2.1.4.2 = INTEGER: 1500 etc.... -
Looks like the wasp in the Box has a new competitor, I received this information this morning and am posting it whilst looking for comment - 🙂
Detecting Chest and Abdomen expansion sounds a little to far fetched for me, but I like the idea if it really works.LifeBeing Sensor
Zigbee module & MCU SDK
bacc874e-8dc0-4c49-b24f-631b342e57e0-image.pngState-of-Art Technology
It's based on 5.8Ghz microwave motion detection technology. And the patented low impedance antenna and exclusive occupancy sensing Algorithm are used to sensor human presence by detecting expansion of chest and abdomen during human respiration. Combined, they can effectively avoid the airflow interference from air conditioning and exhaust, to achieve accurate human detection
Multi-state RecognitionIt can interact with different lights, air conditioners, background music, etc. based on the activeness of human motion. For example, lights turned fully on when it detects active human motion
Independent Flush-mounted DesignNot limited to LED lamps and can be well hidden in the existing lighting environment to avoid any damage
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When I stopped calling it a smart home and started calling it a home automation system my waf went up significantly. Go figure.
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Hi all
I’ve been on a mission for a while now to try and track down where all the energy we use is going (so I can explain the exorbitantly high electricity bill !) .
I’ve done a few posts on this subject already, see below..
https://smarthome.community/topic/534/unifi-energy-report-how-can-i-retrieve-the-value-via-http/6 https://smarthome.community/topic/584/luup-hue-energy-watts-calculator/17?_=1623603224863Plus I’ve got various energy meter plugs around the house to help me too, but when compared to my CurrentCost (whole house) energy meter, I’m still unable to account for 200+ watts when i believe everything of note are switch off (so no dishwasher, no washing machine running etc.)
Tracked items so far include.. Media Centre (TV/NAS etc.), Office Desk (Laptop/PC/Monitor etc.), Hue Lights, Fridge…
What items/devices could I be missing ? What else could i create a pseudo energy (watts) calculations for ?For example (2), I‘ve got a couple of Sonos Music players, which are always on, so I’m thinking as they are a media device that report their status, i can calculate a pause/stop watts rating vs a play rating..
Any thoughts on what the missing power hungry items are in a normal house, and/or any new pseudo watt calculator ideas?
3D Printers - What to get in your opinion?
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A digression from the joy's of building automation.
I have some modifications to make to some (many) plastic frames and thought that an insert sleeve would be the best way to proceed.
I'm making an educated guess and assume that some if not many readers will have access to a 3D Printer and can advise me of the pitfalls.
Ideally, a commercial product would have been the way to go but there is none available so it looks like it's 3D Print or abandon the project.
It's a simple requirement to print a insert sleeve that can hold a device in a frame. Basically, the sleeve is a 44.5mm * 48.9mm*20.0mm box wall thickness 0.5mm with 4 * 13.5 * 16.0mm location pads.A couple of questions:
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What printers do you use? What would be considered a good one remembering we have all been bitten by Vera at least once and I don't want to go through a similar process.
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Is it possible to over print on an existing plastic object?
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How fine can the print be, for instance I need to pad the sleeve out 5mm at most but require a 0.5mm wall thickness for the box to position the location pads. Can 0.5mm be achieved?
*Software? what's good and what to avoid?
TIA
Mike -
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Looks like no love for the 3D printers huh? I know a lot of people around me in the US who got into it but... I didn't.
Most of them got relatively cheap entry level ones and I don't think you can print over an existing object. The whole purpose is to design the piece in CAD and then get a printed object matching it.
Price pretty much dictates the resolution. I think it is part of the specs. At work, some more expensive ones can get way below 0.5mm. -
I'm surprised there is no love either, guess the time that Vera takes to maintain doesn't allow for other activities.........:)
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Elsewhere, I’m on an astronomy forum, which is absolutely stuffed with 3D printer aficionados. I take it that this arises from the need to make bespoke mechanical parts, which are otherwise astronomically expensive.
Not so much of a need, perhaps, in the HA world?
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There seems to be plenty of love in the other place.
C
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I have a Prusa MK3s . I can recimmend it because it just works everytime!
Its very easy to use and has its oen slicer Prusaslicer.
I use Fusion 360 to drar stuff, it has direct connection tonprusaslicer so no fileconvert needed.
/ Mattias
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Hmm you guys actually made me consider it since I have a quite a bit more spare time now that I ditched the vera.
This is a helpful article comparing resin vs filament:
Resin or filament 3D printing: Which is best for you?
When you are first trying to decide what you want out of 3D printing the options can be daunting. We break down the two main types of 3D printer here so you can make an informed decision
You basically need to decide what type of printing you want between large and small pieces and the level of details/accuracy needed.
I happened to be considering these two models or at least these two brands. -
Seriously considering the SUNLU S8 one at the moment as a low cost entry unit...
SUNLU 3D Printer S8 ,Free shipping from the USA or European warehouse.
Model Number: FDM Printer S8 Free shipping from the USA or European warehouse. Within the package will ship you one roll of PLA together as a free gift. CE Certification: YesBrand Name: SUNLUModeling Technology: FDMPrinting Size: 310*310*400mmOverall Size: 600*490*610mmPrint Accuracy: ±0.01mmNozzle...
