-
Aften some testing I watt to clear KWH how ?
Regards Bjarne
-
ChatGPT samples:
Me:
Tell me about an iot program called openLuup.
It:
OpenLuup is an open source home automation system that is built on the VeraLuup platform. It is designed to be easy to install and configure, and provides users with a powerful and versatile way to control their home automation devices. OpenLuup offers a wide range of features, including support for many popular home automation devices, scheduling, scripting, and integration with other services. OpenLuup is designed to be customizable, allowing users to create their own home automation systems. It is an excellent choice for those looking to create their own home automation system without spending a lot of money.
Me:
Write an iot program using openLuup.
It:
--openLuup IoT Program-- -- Initialize Variables -- local device_id = "MyHomeDevice" local temperature_sensor_id = "MyTemperatureSensor" local temperature_threshold = 75 -- Create Devices -- luup.create_device("OpenLuup Temperature Sensor", 0, device_id, "D_GenericSensor1.xml", "I_GenericSensor1.xml", "S_TemperatureSensor1.xml", "") luup.variable_set("urn:upnp-org:serviceId:TemperatureSensor1", "CurrentTemperature", 0, device_id) -- Start Timer -- luup.call_delay("check_temperature", 10, "", false) --Function to Check Temperature-- function check_temperature() local current_temperature = luup.variable_get(temperature_sensor_id, "CurrentTemperature", 0) --Check Temperature Threshold-- if current_temperature >= temperature_threshold then --Send Alert-- luup.call_action("urn:micasaverde-com:serviceId:HomeAutomationGateway1", "SendTextMessage", {PhoneNumber="1234567890", Message="ALERT! Temperature exceeded threshold!"}, 0) end --Reset Timer-- luup.call_delay("check_temperature", 10, "", false) endMe:
Write an iot program using openLuup.
It:
Write an iot program using openLuup. -- openLuup IOT Program -- -- Variables local lampState = false local lampTime = 0 -- Functions function lampTimer() if lampTime > 0 then lampTime = lampTime - 1 if lampTime == 0 then luup.variable_set('urn:upnp-org:serviceId:SwitchPower1', 'Status', 0, lampDeviceID) lampState = false end end end -- Setup luup.call_delay('lampTimer', 60, 0) -- Main Loop while true do -- Check for motion if luup.variable_get('urn:micasaverde-com:serviceId:MotionSensor1', 'Tripped', motionSensorDeviceID) == '1' then if not lampState then luup.variable_set('urn:upnp-org:serviceId:SwitchPower1', 'Status', 1, lampDeviceID) lampState = true -- Set lamp timer to 5 minutes lampTime = 300 end end luup.sleep(1) endWhat??
luup.sleep(1)Not good - looks like I still have some semblance of a job to fulfill.
Me:
An iot program called openLuup was written by akbooer. Who is akbooer?
It: (note: answer redacted and as I understand it, also incorrect re: AltUI):
akbooer is the pseudonym of the software developer and home automation enthusiast. He is the creator of the openLuup home automation software, which is an open-source version of the Vera home automation system. He is also the creator of the AltUI graphical user interface for openLuup.
Me:
Who created of the AltUI graphical user interface for openLuup.
and
Me:
Who created of the AltUI graphical user interface for the home automation system Vera.
Names two different people - mmmm.
Regardless very impressive - give it a few more years.
-
Hi,
I am a student and recently i am working on smart home project and writing a seminar paper about the way users handle and manage IoT devices. I you have 3 min, please fill below survey. Its really short.
Thank you in advance, I really appreciate everyone's help. -
Hello,
I have a kitchen light that can be controlled by two switches, using either to turn it off or on. I have been slowly changing things over to be a smart home but this is the first switch I am attempting to install.
I am in a double wide modular home (mobile) that was built in 1994.
At first I thought I would need a 3 way switch but when taking the normal switches apart I realized that was incorrect because the wiring on my switches are different than anything I could find online.
For one a 3 way smart switch requires 5 wires and there are only 2 wires going into the primary switch with 3 wires going into the secondary switch from the primary switch (at least I think the 3 wires connect the two switches together). Images will be attached of the wiring.
There are two wires (one black and one white) going into the first switch and 3 wires (black, white, and red) going out of that and into the second switch (I assume). The odd thing is the red wire going to the second switch is connected to the white wire going into the first switch and the white wire going into the second switch seems to be a bridge wire or a traveler wire. Not exactly sure. You will see what I mean in the images.
I need to know what kind of smart switch I can use in this set up with one remaining a normal switch.
Note that for some reason the images got switched around when uploading them. The image with 2 wires on one side and 3 on the other is what I think is the primary and the image with just 3 wires is the secondary.
Primary.jpg Secondary.jpg -
You lot are more likely to have a view than most I know. Our much used Logitech Harmony is (not so) slowly dying.
And Logitech have discontinued the entire line.
And no one else appears to be making something similar.
Was going for a Sofabaton X1, but no numeric keypad. Sofabaton U1, but no favourites.
Anyone got suggestions?
Needs to have those features, oh and not be only a phone app.....C
-
Since one member asked at one point about the "front end" and "back end", I drew this showing the controller from the base to the tip along with what I have found to be the best options from my testing. Almost every controller will try to integrate all elements, especially commercial ones but... they all have strengths and weaknesses so if one can have a medley of the best ones...
-
I was just going to add my support for a Update Button for the bare bones version of MSR and find the thread has been removed.
I'm wondering what was so provocative that required it's removal?
Have we become as paranoid as an owner of another forum?Anyway +1 for an Update Button.
-
So, I think I'm in a bit of an unusual situation. I work at a camp & retreat center that has wifi throughout. I want to put a few switches in the office that can control outdoor lighting throughout the camp. We currently have switches in each of the buildings, but it is a particularly frustrating job to get all the lights on in the evening when it is brutally cold out or we are short staffed.
Most of our staff is not very tech savvy (my boss literally has his wife print out his emails for him each day!!!) so, I'd love to avoid having to set up any sort of raspberry pi or new phone app.
Is there type of 3-way switch that can connect to the wifi, turn on a light in another building AND turn on an indicator light in the office, without having any sort of wire running between the buildings? Hopefully looking for a simple solution without breaking the bank too.
I greatly appreciate any input that you can give. Thank you!
-
I have a X10 wall switch system and I want to get rid of it. What would be the easiest transition to something more modern and easy to use with either wifi/homekit capabilities? My current X10 controls 3 zones in my bedroom. All zones are dimmable.
Zone 1 is 4 canister ceiling lights. LED bulbs
Zone 2 is 1 canister ceiling lights. Halogen Bulb
Zone 3 is 1 canister ceiling lights. Halogen Bulb
I have an old plug-in remote from Radio Shack and a wall switch with 3 buttons, each controlling one zone. (images attached)
My wall switch has one two wires from the wall. One black, one white.Is there any solution easy to install without the need of an electrician? Thanks for any feedback.
Z-Wave Plus (ZWP) & Z-Wave Long Range (ZLR)
-
I've only recently read that ZLR is not a mesh network, below is quoted from Dr Zwave, which I found interesting and opens up a range of questions. I had assumed that ZLR was similar to ZWP, but it isn't.
Z-Wave Long Range supports FLiRS types of devices but it doesn't support Associations. Z-Wave Long Range is a star network so all communication has to go thru the hub. Then the hub forwards the message on to the FLiRS device after Beaming to wake it up. There is no way for a Long Range end device to send a frame to another end device, it has to go thru the controller.
I found it interesting that Associations have been given the 'flick'
My question is regarding the compatibility of ZWP & ZLR in the same network.
From my understanding ZLR devices can't communicate directly with ZWP devices, this could get interesting as it seems to indicate that there is no backward compatibility.
Perhaps Z-Wave has abandoned Mesh networks and is working towards simpler systems?
Any thoughts?aka Zedrally
-
This is quite confusing.... From this announcement, it is supposed to be backward compatible.
I note the Beaverton, OR location which is beyond local to me... it is a stone throw away from where I am.But then this article clearly states exactly what you spoke about.
Then the engineer in me starts frowning. The way I read this new spec is: range is increased by the RF TX power of the device. A major no-no. why? Because it means much more cross network interference, device detectability (security anyone) and less efficient air-time. It does have a dynamic PHY power to make up for this but I would still be very uncomfortable with it and the use cases for which this would be beneficial would be very limited (to be nice... most likely none). I can imagine an edge device from my neighbor having to beam at full power, overshadowing all my devices causing all kinds of disruptions. One main benefit of the mesh concept is that each device range is very limited and therefore will not interfere with others. Certainly extending the RF range of my devices by jacking up the PHY output power is not a anything I am looking for. If it was improving the RX sensitivity I would be all in.
On the other hand the star network simplifies the routing of course and reduces the need for repeating signals and potentially free up air time but it breaks route redundancy and as I said, the power will increase interference within the network and cross networks. Not a fan... -
Associations are not possible with ZLR, it all makes sense to me now.
I was recently contacted by a manufacturer who supplies us with Z-wave Plus Dimmers, the GEN 5 has Associations, which is useful in grouping dimmers and works extremely well.
After reading the product spec's I couldn't find any information on Association Groups in the G7 and voiced my concerns to the manufacturer.
Now I know why, GEN 7 doesn't support mesh, so much for backward capabilities, EZLO's new hub is useless unless you role out a new and different Z-wave system.
I'm now wondering why I'm even bothering with Z-wave and why not just go for Zigbee and WiFi.......aka Zedrally
-
@black-cat said in Z-Wave Plus (ZWP) & Z-Wave Long Range (ZLR):
Now I know why, GEN 7 doesn't support mesh, so much for backward capabilities, EZLO's new hub is useless unless you role out a new and different Z-wave system
If that’s true I know understand why they want to use multiple controllers together. No mesh means that large properties will not be easily supported. I’ve placed my unit centrally, but some nodes are not directly reachable and the mesh is doing its job.
-
The more I think about it and the more horrified I am by this "long range" approach. I see the benefit of eliminating the whole routing and topology management but this is coming at the cost of humongous increase in noise and likely degradation in reliability due to lack of redundancy of edge device signals and difficult management of packet collisions. As I said in my previous post, it makes also the devices more detectable from longer range which makes your network easier to hack. I will write a note to the alliance... One of the key benefits of z-wave for me was its low range. Jacking up the TX power from -1dB to up to +30dB is not a feature I want to see. For those who play with their wifi network, they should also know that optimizing one's wifi is to try to lower the TX power as much as possible in order to increase bandwidth. It is to avoid the cacophony of multiple devices screaming at the controller with megaphones at the same time.
-
More on this from the hubitat forum:
Hubitat and Z-Wave Long Range
We were going to save this for a surprise but our community sleuths have put 2+2 together. As many of you may know, Z-Wave Alliance recently announced the release of Z-Wave Long Range, which will open new opportunities for the Z-Wave protocol. I am happy to announce that we designed Hubitat...
Apparently it occupies a different channel so that's how the compatibility is retained. There are some marginal cases with devices being out of range where this could be helpful but all in all, I still think it is a horrible idea for most installations. Granted it simplifies some setup from not having to keep track of mesh routing or for example being able to include from a different location than the final location where the device will be but, at least from my observations, interferences and air time are the top source of reliability and latency, especially on a large network and freeing up the controller's air time is key to improving reliability. Long range would do the opposite. It is however for now not meant to convert the entire network but only an additional option.
-
Thanks for the link, it makes interesting reading.
I'm hoping that the best option is that we can choose to use either ZLR or ZWP rather than being forced into a upgrade.
