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Hello all, I am finally ditching my Vera and moving to HA using a Zooz ZST10 Z wave stick. I have around 50 Z wave devices with a good mix of battery devices, locks, sensors and switches. The plan is to include all the AC powered devices first, starting from the ones closest to my Z wave stick then moving outwards. Once that is complete I will go back and include all battery powered devices in the same fashion.
My question is there any quick way to exclude all my Z wave devices from Vera, or should I just delete all devices without excluding them and factory reset each device before pairing to HA?
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Two stores apparently have inventory of RPI 4Bs with 2GB RAM. Get them while they last!
Raspberry Pi 4 model B - 2GB - RaspberryStore interadmin12 / 62.95 EUR Raspberry Pi 4 Model B 2GB RAM Raspberry Pi 4 Model B 2GB RAMBestel de nieuwe Raspberry Pi 4 B 2GB nu snel en voordelig bij Elektronicavoorjou.nl! - Raspberry Pi Boards, Behuizingen, Heatsinks, Accessoires & meer!
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Is the Smarthome company still existent? If so, are SwitchLinc switched still available?
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Hi! I want to install a smart lock on my front door, but I don't know which one to choose. There are many different models available on the market. Do you have a reliable model to recommend?
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Hi
I’m looking to rework some code I found online so I can use it on Vera, and while I’ve managed to translate / convert a number of things, I’ve got stuck on a few things it does, around encryption/decryption etc.
All the original Lua code is here - > (https://forum.logicmachine.net/showthread.php?tid=232&pid=16580#pid16580 )
Plus there looks to be a python version too here - > (https://github.com/florianholzapfel/panasonic-viera/issues/9#issuecomment-476919658)
Here’s an extract of the code where AES 128 CBC is required?
function encrypt_soap_payload(data, key, hmac_key, iv) payload = '000000000000' n = #data payload = payload .. string.char(bit.band(bit.rshift(n, 24), 0xFF)) payload = payload .. string.char(bit.band(bit.rshift(n, 16), 0xFF)) payload = payload .. string.char(bit.band(bit.rshift(n, 8), 0xFF)) payload = payload .. string.char(bit.band(n, 0xFF)) payload = payload .. data aes_cbc, err = aes:new(key, nil, aes.cipher(128, 'cbc'), { iv = iv }, nil, 1) ciphertext = aes_cbc:encrypt(payload) sig = encdec.hmacsha256(ciphertext, hmac_key, true) encrypted_payload = encdec.base64enc(ciphertext .. sig) return encrypted_payload end function decrypt_soap_payload(data, key, hmac_key, iv) aes_cbc, err = aes:new(key, nil, aes.cipher(128, 'cbc'), { iv = iv }, nil, 0) decrypted = aes_cbc:decrypt(encdec.base64dec(data)) decrypted = string.gsub(string.sub(lmcore.strtohex(decrypted), 33), '%x%x', function(value) return string.char(tonumber(value, 16)) end) return decrypted endI can get to the point where I can create the parameters for the payload encrypt request (example below), it’s just the encryption/decryption I cant do..
data="1234" key="\\S„ßÍ}/Ìa5!" hmac_key="¹jz¹2¸F\r}òcžÎ„ 臧.ª˜¹=¤µæŸ" iv=" {¬£áæ‚2žâ3ÐÞË€ú "I’ve found this aes.lua (https://github.com/openresty/lua-resty-string/blob/master/lib/resty/aes.lua ) module online, but that requires loads of others modules too, most notably ffi.lua. Which I’d ideally like to avoid.
I also came across this aes128.lua (https://github.com/somesocks/lua-lockbox/blob/master/lockbox/cipher/aes128.lua ) but i’m not sure how that handles all the other parameters e.g specify the cbc aspect etc.
Finally there’s this aes256ecb.lua script (https://github.com/idiomic/Lua_AES/blob/master/AES.lua) , could that be converted to aes 128 cbc and then used in the above?
Any help/advice on this would be appreciated..
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I just upgraded the firmware for the inverter for my solar panels and that made it possible to enable Modbus TCP.
At a glance that would be perfect for live production data fed into my home automation environment but my lack of knowledge about the protocol and how to put the data where I want it failed me.What I have:
MSR
openLuup
Vera Secure
Ezlo Plus
Mosquitto
Homebridge
Windows Server
Ubuntu Server
Quite decent PowerShell skills
Enough Lua knowledge to write my own functions and handlers
The inverters Modbus interface definitionsWhat I want to achive:
Something that can be run by systemd och anything else monitoring the status and keeping the Modbus connection alive.
Publish readings over MQTT or whatever fits my setup, the goal is to feed the data into openLuup in someway so Historian can log the data for Grafana and display current production to HomeKit (as a mqttthing light sensor, since there is no other accessory suitable at the moment).Anyone implemented Modbus TCP in similar projects or have any guidance on how to reach my goal?
Open for alternative solutions as well, all suggestions are appreciated!
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Hi to all,
I am user of vera controller. I have a dahua door intercom with relay. Relay activates with username and password authentication. I can activate the relay http://admin:a1234567@192.168.1.111/cgi-bin/accessControl.cgi?action=openDoor&channel=1&UserID=101&Type=RemoteAs you can see intercom username admin and password is a1234567 I build a scene with luup code luup.inet.wget( "http://admin:a1234567@192.168.1.111/cgi-bin/accessControl.cgi?action=openDoor&channel=1&UserID=101&Type=Remote" ) But can not activate relay. Is there any idea?
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Hi to all, I have a bricked vera secure that is replaced with new one. Old vera secure serial numbers are deleted from vera servers so I cannot use it. Vera secure's are orginally Sercomm's NA502 model devices. Recently I install openwrt to the old vera secure unit without problem. Is there any way to use it any automation system with internal z-wave. I install domoticz but I cannot setup internal z-wave unit, it only accept usb zwave radios. Is there any ideas?
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I ordered a Fibaro Dimmer 2 and Bypass device for my upstairs landing / hallway lights.
I have 2 light switches one at the bottom of the stairs and another one upstairs on the landing.
But I am struggling to make sense of my current wiring, more details / photos on the Vera forum.
Jan 27 Anyone good at electrical wiring for light switches? Anyone good at electrical wiring for light switches?Hi I ordered a Fibaro Dimmer 2 and Bypass device for my upstairs landing / hallway lights. I have 2 light switches one at the bottom of the stairs and another one upstairs on the landing. I have no neutral wires in the house behind the light switches. These are photos of the light switch...
Thanks
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Hello,
Looking to all the dev's and tinkerers on this community for ideas on how to implement a solution to my problem. Kind of a long intro, sorry.Problem statement:
I have a geothermal heat pump that has a loop that is slightly undersized. During the cold weather months in the Pacific Northwest (one or two months of the year), the loop can get below 32 degrees. If it goes on for a few days, it can generate significant frost heaving in my yard and under the flagstone deck, Actually fixing the issue is cost prohibitive.Current mitigation:
I have DS18B20 tied into Home Assistant and monitoring the temp of the fluid coming out of the loop and if it drops below 35 degrees, MSR triggers a Fibaro Implant to add a resister into the external temp circuit and fool the Venstar to think the outside temp is below 32 degrees and issue a Heat Pump lockout and switch to AUX heat. While this is working fine and the AUX heat is only coming on once or twice a day, I would like to simplify the setup so it runs on something other than HA and MSR. I think they are overkill for my issue. Also want this to be independent of anything else in the house so it can stay behind if I am not around to maintain.I only have two inputs and one output:
Inputs: Loop temp, Furnace running
Outputs: Switch relay to drop resistance to external thermostat connection on thermostat.
Logic is super simple:
If temp is below 36 degrees and furnace is running, turn on relay
If furnace stops, turn off relay.
I am sure even I can figure that out on Python.Trying to determine the best platform for a set it and forget it black box that works with as close to zero maintenance as possible.
Options I have thought of are:
Pi zero with a GPIO controlled relay ESPHome (Not very knowledgeable about that platform, but willing to explore) Arduino Anything anyone else suggestsAny ideas are appreciated.
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Greetings,
I’m researching a migration from Vera+ to Hubitat C7 and want to know if anyone has successfully connected the Hubitat to the “HA Bridge” for local Alexia calls.
The HA Bridge does not callout Hubitat natively from what I see.Thanks for your assistance.
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Hi all
Having some time off i’ve been able to invest a chunk in creating some plug-ins for Vera/OpenLuup, and will do what I can to post them in GitHub and add links on the Vera Community and here, for anyone who is interested.
But, being knew to any of this, I wanted to ask for any guidance on how and when I should share stuff ? How best do I share it ? Am I liable for anything I share? Is GitHub the best place ? What licenses should I associate with them ?
The latter is a strange one, as I don’t see how I can have any claim over the content/code itself, as I’ve learnt and leveraged so much from others..
To get the ball rolling I posted this on the ezlo/Vera site..
Jan 4 Luup Plugin - Energenie PMS LAN Switch Luup Plugin - Energenie PMS LAN SwitchHi To ensure I give back to this community, which has been educating me in all things Lua and Luup over the years (12+) I wanted to share some of the plugins I’ve built recently to see if any are of use/interest to others. The first one is for the Energenie PMS LAN Switch where I have built two...
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Hey guys,
I just registered here in the forum and honestly… I’m new to the whole topic. I‘m a web developer, so I‘ve quite a bit experience with java, js, sql and so on. But that may not help a lot in this new field.
I‘m looking forward to develop my own smart home device and I‘m looking for starting point. In General the specs are like:
The device should work with WiFi, I want to integrate it into my network I want to write an own app to control it, it may find the device in my network I want the device to be offline usable, if possible (without internet connection) I want the device to broadcast information in my network like „water is empty“, so I can use push messaging in the App it should be ready to as well work with Alexa or Apple Home Kit or Google Assistant as I Plan to develop a skill for them.Can someone provide me with some information I could start with? Like - are there microcontrollers I could go with or is it to complex and I need a raspy? Which frameworks / languages / libs could I use? I know how to do the things on the app side but not on the device side.
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Vainly trying to get to the bottom of the 10 - 15 second delay for TTS with the Alexa plugin (still) anyone have a list of the possible Alexa hosts? Just wonder if the one I have (layla.amazon.co.uk) could just be slow.
Any thoughts?
C
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Hello. First, excuse my english, please. I bought a Vera Edge looking for some way to make a digital ambient thermostat that I could manage remotely without a phone home from the device side. I am very disappointed with that device because all the "official" help of the brand goes in the way of to sign in an account and work with their cloud. I have some computer, network and linux knowledge but all my tests with the hub and a Qubino Flush 1D Relay has been unsuccessful. I connected both and I got to make some basic functions but I see myself very far to get my target. This is my last try to get something before I log in an account in getvera.com and look if I can make some progress in my project following that way.
Can somebody tell me some place where I can learn the basic concepts of this system? Guides, books, videos... Whatever it can help me in my project.
Thank you.
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Node-Red on my Linux Debian box seems to be having issues now. It keeps saying repeatedly "Lost connection to server, reconnecting..." in the web browser.
I recently updated nodejs for MSR, I wonder if that might be related:
"Bump recommended nodejs version to 16.13.0; versions 14 and 15 will continue to be supported through March 31, 2022"
Nodejs version = v16.13.1
I have tried updating Node-Red that is now version v2.1.4
I also updated npm to version v8.2.0
I am not sure how or where to look at the log file for node red?
This is the contents of the nodered.service file in this directory:
# systemd service file to start Node-RED [Unit] Description=Node-RED graphical event wiring tool Wants=network.target Documentation=http://nodered.org/docs/hardware/raspberrypi.html [Service] Type=simple # Run as normal pi user - change to the user name you wish to run Node-RED as User=stuart Group=stuart WorkingDirectory=/home/stuart Environment="NODE_OPTIONS=--max_old_space_size=1024" # uncomment and edit next line if you need an http proxy #Environment="HTTP_PROXY=my.httpproxy.server.address" # uncomment the next line for a more verbose log output #Environment="NODE_RED_OPTIONS=-v" # uncomment next line if you need to wait for time sync before starting #ExecStartPre=/bin/bash -c '/bin/journalctl -b -u systemd-timesyncd | /bin/grep -q "systemd-timesyncd.* Synchronized to time server"' ExecStart=/usr/bin/env node-red-pi $NODE_OPTIONS $NODE_RED_OPTIONS #ExecStart=/usr/bin/env node $NODE_OPTIONS red.js $NODE_RED_OPTIONS # Use SIGINT to stop KillSignal=SIGINT # Auto restart on crash Restart=on-failure RestartSec=20 # Tag things in the log SyslogIdentifier=Node-RED #StandardOutput=syslog [Install] WantedBy=multi-user.target
/etc/systemd/system/multi-user.target.wantsThanks
SOLVED Looking for ideas on how to implement an automation.
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Hello,
Looking to all the dev's and tinkerers on this community for ideas on how to implement a solution to my problem. Kind of a long intro, sorry.Problem statement:
I have a geothermal heat pump that has a loop that is slightly undersized. During the cold weather months in the Pacific Northwest (one or two months of the year), the loop can get below 32 degrees. If it goes on for a few days, it can generate significant frost heaving in my yard and under the flagstone deck, Actually fixing the issue is cost prohibitive.Current mitigation:
I have DS18B20 tied into Home Assistant and monitoring the temp of the fluid coming out of the loop and if it drops below 35 degrees, MSR triggers a Fibaro Implant to add a resister into the external temp circuit and fool the Venstar to think the outside temp is below 32 degrees and issue a Heat Pump lockout and switch to AUX heat. While this is working fine and the AUX heat is only coming on once or twice a day, I would like to simplify the setup so it runs on something other than HA and MSR. I think they are overkill for my issue. Also want this to be independent of anything else in the house so it can stay behind if I am not around to maintain.I only have two inputs and one output:
Inputs: Loop temp, Furnace running
Outputs: Switch relay to drop resistance to external thermostat connection on thermostat.
Logic is super simple:
If temp is below 36 degrees and furnace is running, turn on relay
If furnace stops, turn off relay.
I am sure even I can figure that out on Python.Trying to determine the best platform for a set it and forget it black box that works with as close to zero maintenance as possible.
Options I have thought of are:
- Pi zero with a GPIO controlled relay
- ESPHome (Not very knowledgeable about that platform, but willing to explore)
- Arduino
- Anything anyone else suggests
Any ideas are appreciated.
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@rogero Having owned and operated a commercial data center, when things needed to be uber-reliable, we ditched the PLCs and went straight to relay logic. There's no school like the old school.
Since your heat pump is likely already making 24VAC for its controls and the thermostat, I'd go with that as a design voltage. A thermostatic switch can close and power a relay that closes the resistor into the external temp circuit. Something like this:
I've shown a Sensasys 2511L007-2132 here, which is normally open and closes below 35F, to control the relay coil. The relay is a simple SPDT type (C form), easy to find in 24VAC.
Assuming I've understood your use of the resistor correctly, in the circuit as shown, one leg of the temperaure sensor is wired to the common contact of the relay. When the relay is de-energized (temp switch open), the temperature sensor is passed through (NC contact). When the temp switch closes and the relay is energized, the resistor is put in series with the temperature sensor (resistance increases) via the NO contact.
Since it helps to know what things are doing without dragging out your meter, I recommend getting a relay with a built-in LED or mechanical indicator so you can see when it's energized (or not). Some also have test buttons to close the relay mechanically. Such a beast is this (there's also a socket for it to make wiring easy, highly recommended).
Sometimes the best smarts are the dumbest.
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This is probably doable with a thermostat as well, maybe the ones you could find for refrigerators, that kicks in every time the temperature goes below a certain level, to power a motor, and stays on unless the temperature is lower than your threshold.
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@rogero Had another though about this... since the thermostat is signaling the heat pump to use compressor or aux heat, manipulating those signal wires directly, rather than "fooling" the thermostat wire a resistor on the temperature sensor, is likely a better option.
I wrote the Venstar ColorTouch driver for Vera and Hubitat, so it's the model I'm most familiar with, so I'll base the rest of this on that model (can be modified as needed for other models if they work differently). The ColorTouch's will use W1/O/B to signal heating or cooling, Y to run the compressor, W2 to call for aux heat, and G to run the fan. As usual, R and C are 24VAC supply and return.
All we need to do is activate the W2 (aux heat) wire instead of the Y (compressor) wire when the temperature is below 35F. That can be done like this:
In this version of the circuit, if the temperature is above 35F, then if the Venstar calls for heat by its Y connection, the relay is inactive so the Y (compressor call) passes through to the heat pump. If the temp is below 35F, when the Venstar calls for heat, the relay is activated, and the Y signal from the thermostat is rerouted by the relay contacts to the W2 (call aux heat) wire to the heat pump, so even though the Venstar is calling for compressor heat, the heating unit will see a call for aux heat.
This is much simpler wiring, too. The relay can be mounted inside the heat pump enclosure next to the control board, and all of thermostat wires come in there anyway so they are easy to intercept and connections will be short and sweet. The snap disc switch can be mounted anywhere (i.e. epoxied to the loop output plumbing) on the end of a long wire pair (I didn't draw in a fuse on that circuit, but probably a good idea). Other than the override from compressor to aux, it does not interfere with the operation of the thermostat.
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Thanks Patrick and theraldb for your input. The issue I have is that the fluid in the loop stops circulating as soon as the furnace switches to AUX heat. In Patrick's system (either version) the furnace will switch back and forth between HP and AUX several times in one heating cycle. I know because I originally had a thermistor attached to the loop pipe inside the cabinet and connected to the external thermostat connections on the thermostat. So I do need a rudimentary logic engine of some sort.
The MSR logic is this:
If temp is below 36 degrees and furnace is running, turn on relay
If furnace stops, turn off relay.Once the relay trips is has to stay tripped until the heating cycle is finished. I am sure that could be accomplished with relays but I really don't want to muck around inside my heat pump. I already made a stupid mistake with the Venstar 7900 that fried the external temp measuring circuit and had to replace it. (if anyone needs a nice T7900 that doesn't have the external temp circuit but otherwise works fine, let me know)
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@rogero Here's a version that latches on once tripped and resets itself when the thermostat stops calling for heat.
In any case, this was a fun distraction. And really, this is minimal mucking. I know it looks daunting, but probably the worst you can do if you screw it up is (a) it doesn't work right, or (b) you blow the cheap 3A fuse on the 24V circuit in the unit (just replace it). If you've blown a thermostat with the resistor version, you've already done worse and more expensive than you are likely to do with this.
You can do this simple logic in an ESP32 or ESP8266 quite easily. The problem you always have with such things is getting them powered. You usually end up with a wall wart that's prone to failure. And since the micros are 3.3V volt with low current handling on the I/O pins, you need an interface to drive a relay (more parts or a board that carries both the I/O interface and relay), and you need some kind of enclosure to mount the pieces in, connectors to bring the wires to, etc. IMO, it quickly becomes more complicated than the relay alone. But for sure, you have to what's comfortable for you.
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I like that design. Actually don't even need to muck around inside the HP. Can intercept the thermostat wires where the come into the furnace closet. need to measure the pipe diameter in the HP and see about getting one of these. http://senasys.com/product/2570l211
Thanks,
Roger -
They sell that temperature switch on Amazon.
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Hi, would it not be simpler to add a second external thermostat on the return loop, which mimics ( connects to same wires) the external stats functions. So if loop goes below set point it switches to aux heat
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Depends on what you mean by simple. Since he's measuring the temperature of a water loop, it would require a temperature sensor external to the thermostat on (attached to) that plumbing, so right there, you've reduced the number of available thermostats for the job to those that support external sensors, and that remaining set is likely a bit costly. And you still have to get 24VAC power to that thermostat. Still wiring, really all the same wiring, in fact. An expensive sensor and relay with a front panel, is all a thermostat is, so on net, I think you're paying a lot for a UI you don't need.
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There are plenty of 24v thermostats with remote sensors here in UK (about £30). The OP wanted "Trying to determine the best platform for a set it and forget it black box that works with as close to zero maintenance as possible."!
So my thinking is thermostat in tandem with external sensor, A little wiring job done. You could also probably use a shelly 1 with temp sensor addon if you want feedback.
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@elcid said in Looking for ideas on how to implement an automation.:
You could also probably use a shelly 1 with temp sensor addon if you want feedback.
Now you're talking!
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Appreciate all the discussion. I like Patrick's third diagram, however, looking at discs available I haven't found any with a 5/8 inch diameter connection. Additionally, they are not super accurate according to reviews on Amazon. I might use an ESP32 board with a DS18B20 probe and a DPDT relay in place of the snap switch unless I find one available in my search.
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So, I have looked into the snap disk thermostats that are shaped to connect to a pipe and found, for the one that meets my specs, that the minimum order is 100 units. Additionally, comments in the interweb indicates that they are not all that accurate. Have been thinking about my design and have come up with this.
I plan to connect a 24VAC to 5VDC step down buck converter to the Venstar common and Venstar Y wires as shown in Patrick's second drawing. Using that to power an ESP32 board connected to a DS18B20 sensor and a relay controlled by GPIO on ESP32.
Logic on this design is pretty simple: Monitor loop temp and switch via relay to aux heat source when temp falls to trigger temp.
Remain in AUX mode until thermostat shuts off and powers off ESP32.
Next time furnace starts, relay defaults to Heat Pump mode until temp drops to threshold again.Questions for those of you with HVAC and ESP32's:
- Will the 24V AC powering the thermostat supply enough power to run the ESP32?
- Are the ESP32's able to withstand multiple power cycles without getting corrupted?
Input's to my design are welcome.
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The typical fuse on 24VAC control circuits in residential HVAC systems in North America (lot of qualifiers there, sheesh) is 3A, so you're good. I don't think the power cycling will be a problem for the ESP, but YMMV on your buck converter.
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Thanks, at 4 for $15, I can replace them cheap.