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Hi! I want to install a smart lock on my front door, but I don't know which one to choose. There are many different models available on the market. Do you have a reliable model to recommend?
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Hi
I’m looking to rework some code I found online so I can use it on Vera, and while I’ve managed to translate / convert a number of things, I’ve got stuck on a few things it does, around encryption/decryption etc.
All the original Lua code is here - > (https://forum.logicmachine.net/showthread.php?tid=232&pid=16580#pid16580 )
Plus there looks to be a python version too here - > (https://github.com/florianholzapfel/panasonic-viera/issues/9#issuecomment-476919658)
Here’s an extract of the code where AES 128 CBC is required?
function encrypt_soap_payload(data, key, hmac_key, iv) payload = '000000000000' n = #data payload = payload .. string.char(bit.band(bit.rshift(n, 24), 0xFF)) payload = payload .. string.char(bit.band(bit.rshift(n, 16), 0xFF)) payload = payload .. string.char(bit.band(bit.rshift(n, 8), 0xFF)) payload = payload .. string.char(bit.band(n, 0xFF)) payload = payload .. data aes_cbc, err = aes:new(key, nil, aes.cipher(128, 'cbc'), { iv = iv }, nil, 1) ciphertext = aes_cbc:encrypt(payload) sig = encdec.hmacsha256(ciphertext, hmac_key, true) encrypted_payload = encdec.base64enc(ciphertext .. sig) return encrypted_payload end function decrypt_soap_payload(data, key, hmac_key, iv) aes_cbc, err = aes:new(key, nil, aes.cipher(128, 'cbc'), { iv = iv }, nil, 0) decrypted = aes_cbc:decrypt(encdec.base64dec(data)) decrypted = string.gsub(string.sub(lmcore.strtohex(decrypted), 33), '%x%x', function(value) return string.char(tonumber(value, 16)) end) return decrypted endI can get to the point where I can create the parameters for the payload encrypt request (example below), it’s just the encryption/decryption I cant do..
data="1234" key="\\S„ßÍ}/Ìa5!" hmac_key="¹jz¹2¸F\r}òcžÎ„ 臧.ª˜¹=¤µæŸ" iv=" {¬£áæ‚2žâ3ÐÞË€ú "I’ve found this aes.lua (https://github.com/openresty/lua-resty-string/blob/master/lib/resty/aes.lua ) module online, but that requires loads of others modules too, most notably ffi.lua. Which I’d ideally like to avoid.
I also came across this aes128.lua (https://github.com/somesocks/lua-lockbox/blob/master/lockbox/cipher/aes128.lua ) but i’m not sure how that handles all the other parameters e.g specify the cbc aspect etc.
Finally there’s this aes256ecb.lua script (https://github.com/idiomic/Lua_AES/blob/master/AES.lua) , could that be converted to aes 128 cbc and then used in the above?
Any help/advice on this would be appreciated..
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I just upgraded the firmware for the inverter for my solar panels and that made it possible to enable Modbus TCP.
At a glance that would be perfect for live production data fed into my home automation environment but my lack of knowledge about the protocol and how to put the data where I want it failed me.What I have:
MSR
openLuup
Vera Secure
Ezlo Plus
Mosquitto
Homebridge
Windows Server
Ubuntu Server
Quite decent PowerShell skills
Enough Lua knowledge to write my own functions and handlers
The inverters Modbus interface definitionsWhat I want to achive:
Something that can be run by systemd och anything else monitoring the status and keeping the Modbus connection alive.
Publish readings over MQTT or whatever fits my setup, the goal is to feed the data into openLuup in someway so Historian can log the data for Grafana and display current production to HomeKit (as a mqttthing light sensor, since there is no other accessory suitable at the moment).Anyone implemented Modbus TCP in similar projects or have any guidance on how to reach my goal?
Open for alternative solutions as well, all suggestions are appreciated!
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Hi to all,
I am user of vera controller. I have a dahua door intercom with relay. Relay activates with username and password authentication. I can activate the relay http://admin:a1234567@192.168.1.111/cgi-bin/accessControl.cgi?action=openDoor&channel=1&UserID=101&Type=RemoteAs you can see intercom username admin and password is a1234567 I build a scene with luup code luup.inet.wget( "http://admin:a1234567@192.168.1.111/cgi-bin/accessControl.cgi?action=openDoor&channel=1&UserID=101&Type=Remote" ) But can not activate relay. Is there any idea?
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Hi to all, I have a bricked vera secure that is replaced with new one. Old vera secure serial numbers are deleted from vera servers so I cannot use it. Vera secure's are orginally Sercomm's NA502 model devices. Recently I install openwrt to the old vera secure unit without problem. Is there any way to use it any automation system with internal z-wave. I install domoticz but I cannot setup internal z-wave unit, it only accept usb zwave radios. Is there any ideas?
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I ordered a Fibaro Dimmer 2 and Bypass device for my upstairs landing / hallway lights.
I have 2 light switches one at the bottom of the stairs and another one upstairs on the landing.
But I am struggling to make sense of my current wiring, more details / photos on the Vera forum.
Jan 27 Anyone good at electrical wiring for light switches? Anyone good at electrical wiring for light switches?Hi I ordered a Fibaro Dimmer 2 and Bypass device for my upstairs landing / hallway lights. I have 2 light switches one at the bottom of the stairs and another one upstairs on the landing. I have no neutral wires in the house behind the light switches. These are photos of the light switch...
Thanks
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Hello,
Looking to all the dev's and tinkerers on this community for ideas on how to implement a solution to my problem. Kind of a long intro, sorry.Problem statement:
I have a geothermal heat pump that has a loop that is slightly undersized. During the cold weather months in the Pacific Northwest (one or two months of the year), the loop can get below 32 degrees. If it goes on for a few days, it can generate significant frost heaving in my yard and under the flagstone deck, Actually fixing the issue is cost prohibitive.Current mitigation:
I have DS18B20 tied into Home Assistant and monitoring the temp of the fluid coming out of the loop and if it drops below 35 degrees, MSR triggers a Fibaro Implant to add a resister into the external temp circuit and fool the Venstar to think the outside temp is below 32 degrees and issue a Heat Pump lockout and switch to AUX heat. While this is working fine and the AUX heat is only coming on once or twice a day, I would like to simplify the setup so it runs on something other than HA and MSR. I think they are overkill for my issue. Also want this to be independent of anything else in the house so it can stay behind if I am not around to maintain.I only have two inputs and one output:
Inputs: Loop temp, Furnace running
Outputs: Switch relay to drop resistance to external thermostat connection on thermostat.
Logic is super simple:
If temp is below 36 degrees and furnace is running, turn on relay
If furnace stops, turn off relay.
I am sure even I can figure that out on Python.Trying to determine the best platform for a set it and forget it black box that works with as close to zero maintenance as possible.
Options I have thought of are:
Pi zero with a GPIO controlled relay ESPHome (Not very knowledgeable about that platform, but willing to explore) Arduino Anything anyone else suggestsAny ideas are appreciated.
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Greetings,
I’m researching a migration from Vera+ to Hubitat C7 and want to know if anyone has successfully connected the Hubitat to the “HA Bridge” for local Alexia calls.
The HA Bridge does not callout Hubitat natively from what I see.Thanks for your assistance.
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Hi all
Having some time off i’ve been able to invest a chunk in creating some plug-ins for Vera/OpenLuup, and will do what I can to post them in GitHub and add links on the Vera Community and here, for anyone who is interested.
But, being knew to any of this, I wanted to ask for any guidance on how and when I should share stuff ? How best do I share it ? Am I liable for anything I share? Is GitHub the best place ? What licenses should I associate with them ?
The latter is a strange one, as I don’t see how I can have any claim over the content/code itself, as I’ve learnt and leveraged so much from others..
To get the ball rolling I posted this on the ezlo/Vera site..
Jan 4 Luup Plugin - Energenie PMS LAN Switch Luup Plugin - Energenie PMS LAN SwitchHi To ensure I give back to this community, which has been educating me in all things Lua and Luup over the years (12+) I wanted to share some of the plugins I’ve built recently to see if any are of use/interest to others. The first one is for the Energenie PMS LAN Switch where I have built two...
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Hey guys,
I just registered here in the forum and honestly… I’m new to the whole topic. I‘m a web developer, so I‘ve quite a bit experience with java, js, sql and so on. But that may not help a lot in this new field.
I‘m looking forward to develop my own smart home device and I‘m looking for starting point. In General the specs are like:
The device should work with WiFi, I want to integrate it into my network I want to write an own app to control it, it may find the device in my network I want the device to be offline usable, if possible (without internet connection) I want the device to broadcast information in my network like „water is empty“, so I can use push messaging in the App it should be ready to as well work with Alexa or Apple Home Kit or Google Assistant as I Plan to develop a skill for them.Can someone provide me with some information I could start with? Like - are there microcontrollers I could go with or is it to complex and I need a raspy? Which frameworks / languages / libs could I use? I know how to do the things on the app side but not on the device side.
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Vainly trying to get to the bottom of the 10 - 15 second delay for TTS with the Alexa plugin (still) anyone have a list of the possible Alexa hosts? Just wonder if the one I have (layla.amazon.co.uk) could just be slow.
Any thoughts?
C
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Hello. First, excuse my english, please. I bought a Vera Edge looking for some way to make a digital ambient thermostat that I could manage remotely without a phone home from the device side. I am very disappointed with that device because all the "official" help of the brand goes in the way of to sign in an account and work with their cloud. I have some computer, network and linux knowledge but all my tests with the hub and a Qubino Flush 1D Relay has been unsuccessful. I connected both and I got to make some basic functions but I see myself very far to get my target. This is my last try to get something before I log in an account in getvera.com and look if I can make some progress in my project following that way.
Can somebody tell me some place where I can learn the basic concepts of this system? Guides, books, videos... Whatever it can help me in my project.
Thank you.
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Node-Red on my Linux Debian box seems to be having issues now. It keeps saying repeatedly "Lost connection to server, reconnecting..." in the web browser.
I recently updated nodejs for MSR, I wonder if that might be related:
"Bump recommended nodejs version to 16.13.0; versions 14 and 15 will continue to be supported through March 31, 2022"
Nodejs version = v16.13.1
I have tried updating Node-Red that is now version v2.1.4
I also updated npm to version v8.2.0
I am not sure how or where to look at the log file for node red?
This is the contents of the nodered.service file in this directory:
# systemd service file to start Node-RED [Unit] Description=Node-RED graphical event wiring tool Wants=network.target Documentation=http://nodered.org/docs/hardware/raspberrypi.html [Service] Type=simple # Run as normal pi user - change to the user name you wish to run Node-RED as User=stuart Group=stuart WorkingDirectory=/home/stuart Environment="NODE_OPTIONS=--max_old_space_size=1024" # uncomment and edit next line if you need an http proxy #Environment="HTTP_PROXY=my.httpproxy.server.address" # uncomment the next line for a more verbose log output #Environment="NODE_RED_OPTIONS=-v" # uncomment next line if you need to wait for time sync before starting #ExecStartPre=/bin/bash -c '/bin/journalctl -b -u systemd-timesyncd | /bin/grep -q "systemd-timesyncd.* Synchronized to time server"' ExecStart=/usr/bin/env node-red-pi $NODE_OPTIONS $NODE_RED_OPTIONS #ExecStart=/usr/bin/env node $NODE_OPTIONS red.js $NODE_RED_OPTIONS # Use SIGINT to stop KillSignal=SIGINT # Auto restart on crash Restart=on-failure RestartSec=20 # Tag things in the log SyslogIdentifier=Node-RED #StandardOutput=syslog [Install] WantedBy=multi-user.target
/etc/systemd/system/multi-user.target.wantsThanks
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Hi @ll, last days I migrated my last zwave device from Vera to zwave js in homeassistant. Out of 150 devices 1 did not go well initially but reinterviewing did it directly. Most work was to find the ex and inclusion procedure, 3 times, click, clack, whatever. I must admit that Vera is Lighting fast!!!!! With only 3 devices left, those were my under the floor switches I had to do last.
Now I am totally gone from Vera, altui, luup, etc. There's nothing more left for me on this forum. And since it was one of my "routine sites" reading I will save a few minutes a day skipping it.
I thank you all for all the kind help, warm words and laughter about the ezlo flop :-).
I hooe you all will be safe and healthy and whish you all the best!
I will stay on the homeassistant forum.
Goodbye!
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Morning all. Hope all are well. Been a bit of a trying time here, but nothing we can't deal with....
.....apart from this!My coffee grinder went punk yesterday (wasn't even being used) and took out the main breakers. Once it was isolated I got everything back on line, except on TKB smart plug which was in the same double socket as the grinder.
OpenLuup claims it's failed. Z-wave server can't see it but it responds to the button pushes physically as I'd expect. (i.e. the socket turns on and off, and the LED flashes to indicate it's in inclusion / exclusion mode)
My plan is to see if I can exclude it then re-include it in z-wave server. If that doesn't work then I'll bin it, but if it does work can I then re-number it to match the original device ID and not have to trawl through my reactors? Any chance?
TIAC
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Some of you may know that I took at shot at building an alternate geofencing solution for Vera. The core of it was system agnostic, using the OwnTracks application and AWS lambdas to track devices and keep a central data, then disseminate that to the Vera via a websocket-based plugin. It worked with other apps as well, including Tasker and GPSLogger, but of the dozen people that were testing it, most used OwnTracks.
A lot was learned in the process, not the least of which is that the success of any such solution is highly dependent on the phone and its settings. Phone manufacturers love to set things up for the longest battery life, of course, but that's usually very anti-geofencing behavior. In the case of at least one brand, it was unusable and the settings could not be modified. It was also cost-prohibitive to maintain on Amazon, as AWS grabs a dime here and a dollar there and before you know it, it added $100/month to my AWS bill, which my wife deducted from my Scotch budget. Unacceptable.
But it's quite reasonable to use OwnTracks to a local endpoint, and I could pretty easily replicate the functionality as a local application, or maybe even as an additional endpoint built into MSR's API (still separate port and process, but in the package).
So the question really is... would you do it, or would you be too concerned about the security risks associated (e.g., dynamic DNS and NAT mapping in the firewall necessary for the phone to contact the service when not on LAN)?
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Hello!
I want to trigger an event (like switching on a smart Zigbee power plug) when a regular light switch (that switches regular non-smart LED light bulbs) is flipped. Is there something I can put behind a light switch to achieve this? Or something to splice in between the switch and the light bulbs? A good option would also be Hue compatible.
Thank you!
UNSOLVED An electricians or wiring experts here?
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I ordered a Fibaro Dimmer 2 and Bypass device for my upstairs landing / hallway lights.
I have 2 light switches one at the bottom of the stairs and another one upstairs on the landing.
But I am struggling to make sense of my current wiring, more details / photos on the Vera forum.
Thanks
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@cw-kid it is really difficult to say. I think your drawing looks quite similar to the one I posted, but not quite sure, it could be different. The earthing in the pattress box is unfamiliar with me, the boxes here are in plastic. But I assume it is simply an earth to the box since it is made of metal.
The colours are always tricky in old houses. They can have changed, different standards over time etc. Not to be trusted in other words. The only way to know is really to try understand what they all are and where they all go.
You may need to disconnect the cables on the two switches to fully map things out. Marking the original position of all cables, cutting the power while working etc.I do not have any Dimmer 2, but will it not need neutral to operate? This means that you would need to get neutral to behind one of the light switches.
Another solution could be to put the Fibaro at the light instead, if it fits safely there and is allowed in your location. That could perhaps be a solution not having to get new cables drawn into the boxes.
Regarding your switches momentary should work or are even needed for being able to dim the light.
I found a sketch showing one way to connect two momentary switches to a Fibaro Dimmer (the older version I think since it says "O" for the connnection that goes to the light). Maybe it could be of use.
As always continue with care and cross-check with the Fibaro diagram, they could have changed something in the new version.Basically if I understand the sketch correctly the two switches need to be connected in parallel over S1 and SX.
Not sure I can help more, good luck!
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Thanks, I think my diagram isn't right at all as it doesn't make much sense. I think I will try and bell out all the wires for continuity to try and work out what is what. You can wire in Fibaro Dimmer 2 modules with no neutral behind the wall switches. All my other ceiling lights don't have neutral wire either behind their wall switches and work fine with the Dimmer 2 modules. Placing the Dimmer 2 in the ceiling above the actual light might be the way to go as you suggested.
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Paging @Elcid, since he is a licensed electrician in UK and may help.
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Hey @cw-kid can i see photos of all your switches and the light fitting so i can establish the wiring method and where you can put the dimmer.
Are you going to change the switches to momentary?I have seen your photos on old forum but they are unclear. The red wire going to earthing position seems odd. Is it just a red sleeve on a bare earth wire or is it a a spare wire they just earthed for safety.
When you take more photos can you get a clear shot of the cables leaving the box an a clear shot of back of switches showing the markings on switch.
A safety note , you are using metal switches, so there should be an earth fly lead from the earth on box to the switch. removing the switch from the box now means the metal on the switch is not earthed.
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I have to say that using push switches makes multi-way wiring SO much easier, since you can do this with just two wires and all the switches in parallel.
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@akbooer I agree. My new house has them everywhere and it’s useful to use them as scene controllers as well (long press to dim, double click
to sync levels, etc)