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Aften some testing I watt to clear KWH how ?
Regards Bjarne
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ChatGPT samples:
Me:
Tell me about an iot program called openLuup.
It:
OpenLuup is an open source home automation system that is built on the VeraLuup platform. It is designed to be easy to install and configure, and provides users with a powerful and versatile way to control their home automation devices. OpenLuup offers a wide range of features, including support for many popular home automation devices, scheduling, scripting, and integration with other services. OpenLuup is designed to be customizable, allowing users to create their own home automation systems. It is an excellent choice for those looking to create their own home automation system without spending a lot of money.
Me:
Write an iot program using openLuup.
It:
--openLuup IoT Program-- -- Initialize Variables -- local device_id = "MyHomeDevice" local temperature_sensor_id = "MyTemperatureSensor" local temperature_threshold = 75 -- Create Devices -- luup.create_device("OpenLuup Temperature Sensor", 0, device_id, "D_GenericSensor1.xml", "I_GenericSensor1.xml", "S_TemperatureSensor1.xml", "") luup.variable_set("urn:upnp-org:serviceId:TemperatureSensor1", "CurrentTemperature", 0, device_id) -- Start Timer -- luup.call_delay("check_temperature", 10, "", false) --Function to Check Temperature-- function check_temperature() local current_temperature = luup.variable_get(temperature_sensor_id, "CurrentTemperature", 0) --Check Temperature Threshold-- if current_temperature >= temperature_threshold then --Send Alert-- luup.call_action("urn:micasaverde-com:serviceId:HomeAutomationGateway1", "SendTextMessage", {PhoneNumber="1234567890", Message="ALERT! Temperature exceeded threshold!"}, 0) end --Reset Timer-- luup.call_delay("check_temperature", 10, "", false) endMe:
Write an iot program using openLuup.
It:
Write an iot program using openLuup. -- openLuup IOT Program -- -- Variables local lampState = false local lampTime = 0 -- Functions function lampTimer() if lampTime > 0 then lampTime = lampTime - 1 if lampTime == 0 then luup.variable_set('urn:upnp-org:serviceId:SwitchPower1', 'Status', 0, lampDeviceID) lampState = false end end end -- Setup luup.call_delay('lampTimer', 60, 0) -- Main Loop while true do -- Check for motion if luup.variable_get('urn:micasaverde-com:serviceId:MotionSensor1', 'Tripped', motionSensorDeviceID) == '1' then if not lampState then luup.variable_set('urn:upnp-org:serviceId:SwitchPower1', 'Status', 1, lampDeviceID) lampState = true -- Set lamp timer to 5 minutes lampTime = 300 end end luup.sleep(1) endWhat??
luup.sleep(1)Not good - looks like I still have some semblance of a job to fulfill.
Me:
An iot program called openLuup was written by akbooer. Who is akbooer?
It: (note: answer redacted and as I understand it, also incorrect re: AltUI):
akbooer is the pseudonym of the software developer and home automation enthusiast. He is the creator of the openLuup home automation software, which is an open-source version of the Vera home automation system. He is also the creator of the AltUI graphical user interface for openLuup.
Me:
Who created of the AltUI graphical user interface for openLuup.
and
Me:
Who created of the AltUI graphical user interface for the home automation system Vera.
Names two different people - mmmm.
Regardless very impressive - give it a few more years.
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Hi,
I am a student and recently i am working on smart home project and writing a seminar paper about the way users handle and manage IoT devices. I you have 3 min, please fill below survey. Its really short.
Thank you in advance, I really appreciate everyone's help. -
Hello,
I have a kitchen light that can be controlled by two switches, using either to turn it off or on. I have been slowly changing things over to be a smart home but this is the first switch I am attempting to install.
I am in a double wide modular home (mobile) that was built in 1994.
At first I thought I would need a 3 way switch but when taking the normal switches apart I realized that was incorrect because the wiring on my switches are different than anything I could find online.
For one a 3 way smart switch requires 5 wires and there are only 2 wires going into the primary switch with 3 wires going into the secondary switch from the primary switch (at least I think the 3 wires connect the two switches together). Images will be attached of the wiring.
There are two wires (one black and one white) going into the first switch and 3 wires (black, white, and red) going out of that and into the second switch (I assume). The odd thing is the red wire going to the second switch is connected to the white wire going into the first switch and the white wire going into the second switch seems to be a bridge wire or a traveler wire. Not exactly sure. You will see what I mean in the images.
I need to know what kind of smart switch I can use in this set up with one remaining a normal switch.
Note that for some reason the images got switched around when uploading them. The image with 2 wires on one side and 3 on the other is what I think is the primary and the image with just 3 wires is the secondary.
Primary.jpg Secondary.jpg -
You lot are more likely to have a view than most I know. Our much used Logitech Harmony is (not so) slowly dying.
And Logitech have discontinued the entire line.
And no one else appears to be making something similar.
Was going for a Sofabaton X1, but no numeric keypad. Sofabaton U1, but no favourites.
Anyone got suggestions?
Needs to have those features, oh and not be only a phone app.....C
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Since one member asked at one point about the "front end" and "back end", I drew this showing the controller from the base to the tip along with what I have found to be the best options from my testing. Almost every controller will try to integrate all elements, especially commercial ones but... they all have strengths and weaknesses so if one can have a medley of the best ones...
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I was just going to add my support for a Update Button for the bare bones version of MSR and find the thread has been removed.
I'm wondering what was so provocative that required it's removal?
Have we become as paranoid as an owner of another forum?Anyway +1 for an Update Button.
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So, I think I'm in a bit of an unusual situation. I work at a camp & retreat center that has wifi throughout. I want to put a few switches in the office that can control outdoor lighting throughout the camp. We currently have switches in each of the buildings, but it is a particularly frustrating job to get all the lights on in the evening when it is brutally cold out or we are short staffed.
Most of our staff is not very tech savvy (my boss literally has his wife print out his emails for him each day!!!) so, I'd love to avoid having to set up any sort of raspberry pi or new phone app.
Is there type of 3-way switch that can connect to the wifi, turn on a light in another building AND turn on an indicator light in the office, without having any sort of wire running between the buildings? Hopefully looking for a simple solution without breaking the bank too.
I greatly appreciate any input that you can give. Thank you!
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I have a X10 wall switch system and I want to get rid of it. What would be the easiest transition to something more modern and easy to use with either wifi/homekit capabilities? My current X10 controls 3 zones in my bedroom. All zones are dimmable.
Zone 1 is 4 canister ceiling lights. LED bulbs
Zone 2 is 1 canister ceiling lights. Halogen Bulb
Zone 3 is 1 canister ceiling lights. Halogen Bulb
I have an old plug-in remote from Radio Shack and a wall switch with 3 buttons, each controlling one zone. (images attached)
My wall switch has one two wires from the wall. One black, one white.Is there any solution easy to install without the need of an electrician? Thanks for any feedback.
Unsolved An electricians or wiring experts here?
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I ordered a Fibaro Dimmer 2 and Bypass device for my upstairs landing / hallway lights.
I have 2 light switches one at the bottom of the stairs and another one upstairs on the landing.
But I am struggling to make sense of my current wiring, more details / photos on the Vera forum.
Anyone good at electrical wiring for light switches?
Hi I ordered a Fibaro Dimmer 2 and Bypass device for my upstairs landing / hallway lights. I have 2 light switches one at the bottom of the stairs and another one upstairs on the landing. I have no neutral wires in the house behind the light switches. This is UK wiring in a 70s house. These...
Thanks
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In Sweden the most usual connection in that situation is a "stairway connection". It typically is done like this:
Maybe what you have is something like this connection?
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Not sure at all can't work out my wiring. Best I can tell so far its something like this. but I can't see or tell where some wires go to / come from.
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@cw-kid it is really difficult to say. I think your drawing looks quite similar to the one I posted, but not quite sure, it could be different. The earthing in the pattress box is unfamiliar with me, the boxes here are in plastic. But I assume it is simply an earth to the box since it is made of metal.
The colours are always tricky in old houses. They can have changed, different standards over time etc. Not to be trusted in other words. The only way to know is really to try understand what they all are and where they all go.
You may need to disconnect the cables on the two switches to fully map things out. Marking the original position of all cables, cutting the power while working etc.
I do not have any Dimmer 2, but will it not need neutral to operate? This means that you would need to get neutral to behind one of the light switches.
Another solution could be to put the Fibaro at the light instead, if it fits safely there and is allowed in your location. That could perhaps be a solution not having to get new cables drawn into the boxes.
Regarding your switches momentary should work or are even needed for being able to dim the light.
I found a sketch showing one way to connect two momentary switches to a Fibaro Dimmer (the older version I think since it says "O" for the connnection that goes to the light). Maybe it could be of use.
As always continue with care and cross-check with the Fibaro diagram, they could have changed something in the new version.
Basically if I understand the sketch correctly the two switches need to be connected in parallel over S1 and SX.
Not sure I can help more, good luck!
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Thanks, I think my diagram isn't right at all as it doesn't make much sense. I think I will try and bell out all the wires for continuity to try and work out what is what. You can wire in Fibaro Dimmer 2 modules with no neutral behind the wall switches. All my other ceiling lights don't have neutral wire either behind their wall switches and work fine with the Dimmer 2 modules. Placing the Dimmer 2 in the ceiling above the actual light might be the way to go as you suggested.
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Paging @Elcid, since he is a licensed electrician in UK and may help.
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Hey @cw-kid can i see photos of all your switches and the light fitting so i can establish the wiring method and where you can put the dimmer.
Are you going to change the switches to momentary?I have seen your photos on old forum but they are unclear. The red wire going to earthing position seems odd. Is it just a red sleeve on a bare earth wire or is it a a spare wire they just earthed for safety.
When you take more photos can you get a clear shot of the cables leaving the box an a clear shot of back of switches showing the markings on switch.
A safety note , you are using metal switches, so there should be an earth fly lead from the earth on box to the switch. removing the switch from the box now means the metal on the switch is not earthed.
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I have to say that using push switches makes multi-way wiring SO much easier, since you can do this with just two wires and all the switches in parallel.
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@akbooer I agree. My new house has them everywhere and it’s useful to use them as scene controllers as well (long press to dim, double click
to sync levels, etc)
