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Aften some testing I watt to clear KWH how ?
Regards Bjarne
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ChatGPT samples:
Me:
Tell me about an iot program called openLuup.
It:
OpenLuup is an open source home automation system that is built on the VeraLuup platform. It is designed to be easy to install and configure, and provides users with a powerful and versatile way to control their home automation devices. OpenLuup offers a wide range of features, including support for many popular home automation devices, scheduling, scripting, and integration with other services. OpenLuup is designed to be customizable, allowing users to create their own home automation systems. It is an excellent choice for those looking to create their own home automation system without spending a lot of money.
Me:
Write an iot program using openLuup.
It:
--openLuup IoT Program-- -- Initialize Variables -- local device_id = "MyHomeDevice" local temperature_sensor_id = "MyTemperatureSensor" local temperature_threshold = 75 -- Create Devices -- luup.create_device("OpenLuup Temperature Sensor", 0, device_id, "D_GenericSensor1.xml", "I_GenericSensor1.xml", "S_TemperatureSensor1.xml", "") luup.variable_set("urn:upnp-org:serviceId:TemperatureSensor1", "CurrentTemperature", 0, device_id) -- Start Timer -- luup.call_delay("check_temperature", 10, "", false) --Function to Check Temperature-- function check_temperature() local current_temperature = luup.variable_get(temperature_sensor_id, "CurrentTemperature", 0) --Check Temperature Threshold-- if current_temperature >= temperature_threshold then --Send Alert-- luup.call_action("urn:micasaverde-com:serviceId:HomeAutomationGateway1", "SendTextMessage", {PhoneNumber="1234567890", Message="ALERT! Temperature exceeded threshold!"}, 0) end --Reset Timer-- luup.call_delay("check_temperature", 10, "", false) endMe:
Write an iot program using openLuup.
It:
Write an iot program using openLuup. -- openLuup IOT Program -- -- Variables local lampState = false local lampTime = 0 -- Functions function lampTimer() if lampTime > 0 then lampTime = lampTime - 1 if lampTime == 0 then luup.variable_set('urn:upnp-org:serviceId:SwitchPower1', 'Status', 0, lampDeviceID) lampState = false end end end -- Setup luup.call_delay('lampTimer', 60, 0) -- Main Loop while true do -- Check for motion if luup.variable_get('urn:micasaverde-com:serviceId:MotionSensor1', 'Tripped', motionSensorDeviceID) == '1' then if not lampState then luup.variable_set('urn:upnp-org:serviceId:SwitchPower1', 'Status', 1, lampDeviceID) lampState = true -- Set lamp timer to 5 minutes lampTime = 300 end end luup.sleep(1) endWhat??
luup.sleep(1)Not good - looks like I still have some semblance of a job to fulfill.
Me:
An iot program called openLuup was written by akbooer. Who is akbooer?
It: (note: answer redacted and as I understand it, also incorrect re: AltUI):
akbooer is the pseudonym of the software developer and home automation enthusiast. He is the creator of the openLuup home automation software, which is an open-source version of the Vera home automation system. He is also the creator of the AltUI graphical user interface for openLuup.
Me:
Who created of the AltUI graphical user interface for openLuup.
and
Me:
Who created of the AltUI graphical user interface for the home automation system Vera.
Names two different people - mmmm.
Regardless very impressive - give it a few more years.
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Hi,
I am a student and recently i am working on smart home project and writing a seminar paper about the way users handle and manage IoT devices. I you have 3 min, please fill below survey. Its really short.
Thank you in advance, I really appreciate everyone's help. -
Hello,
I have a kitchen light that can be controlled by two switches, using either to turn it off or on. I have been slowly changing things over to be a smart home but this is the first switch I am attempting to install.
I am in a double wide modular home (mobile) that was built in 1994.
At first I thought I would need a 3 way switch but when taking the normal switches apart I realized that was incorrect because the wiring on my switches are different than anything I could find online.
For one a 3 way smart switch requires 5 wires and there are only 2 wires going into the primary switch with 3 wires going into the secondary switch from the primary switch (at least I think the 3 wires connect the two switches together). Images will be attached of the wiring.
There are two wires (one black and one white) going into the first switch and 3 wires (black, white, and red) going out of that and into the second switch (I assume). The odd thing is the red wire going to the second switch is connected to the white wire going into the first switch and the white wire going into the second switch seems to be a bridge wire or a traveler wire. Not exactly sure. You will see what I mean in the images.
I need to know what kind of smart switch I can use in this set up with one remaining a normal switch.
Note that for some reason the images got switched around when uploading them. The image with 2 wires on one side and 3 on the other is what I think is the primary and the image with just 3 wires is the secondary.
Primary.jpg Secondary.jpg -
You lot are more likely to have a view than most I know. Our much used Logitech Harmony is (not so) slowly dying.
And Logitech have discontinued the entire line.
And no one else appears to be making something similar.
Was going for a Sofabaton X1, but no numeric keypad. Sofabaton U1, but no favourites.
Anyone got suggestions?
Needs to have those features, oh and not be only a phone app.....C
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Since one member asked at one point about the "front end" and "back end", I drew this showing the controller from the base to the tip along with what I have found to be the best options from my testing. Almost every controller will try to integrate all elements, especially commercial ones but... they all have strengths and weaknesses so if one can have a medley of the best ones...
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So, I think I'm in a bit of an unusual situation. I work at a camp & retreat center that has wifi throughout. I want to put a few switches in the office that can control outdoor lighting throughout the camp. We currently have switches in each of the buildings, but it is a particularly frustrating job to get all the lights on in the evening when it is brutally cold out or we are short staffed.
Most of our staff is not very tech savvy (my boss literally has his wife print out his emails for him each day!!!) so, I'd love to avoid having to set up any sort of raspberry pi or new phone app.
Is there type of 3-way switch that can connect to the wifi, turn on a light in another building AND turn on an indicator light in the office, without having any sort of wire running between the buildings? Hopefully looking for a simple solution without breaking the bank too.
I greatly appreciate any input that you can give. Thank you!
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I have a X10 wall switch system and I want to get rid of it. What would be the easiest transition to something more modern and easy to use with either wifi/homekit capabilities? My current X10 controls 3 zones in my bedroom. All zones are dimmable.
Zone 1 is 4 canister ceiling lights. LED bulbs
Zone 2 is 1 canister ceiling lights. Halogen Bulb
Zone 3 is 1 canister ceiling lights. Halogen Bulb
I have an old plug-in remote from Radio Shack and a wall switch with 3 buttons, each controlling one zone. (images attached)
My wall switch has one two wires from the wall. One black, one white.Is there any solution easy to install without the need of an electrician? Thanks for any feedback.
Need help backing up Raspberry Pi
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Hello
I have a 64GB SD card in my Raspberry Pi.
I read some guides online and the ones that looked easy to follow use a program call Win32 Disk Imager to make an image of the entire SD card.
I shutdown the Pi and when I insert the SD card in to my Windows 10 PC, I can see drive letter D:\ appear and its label is "boot"
Looking at this disk in Windows Disk management it looks a bit strange however as it has a massive unallocated area.
Anyway I proceeded to backup the disk D:\ using Win32 Disk Imager program.
It took a long time but it has created an .img file which is 27.4GB in file size.
I then put the SD card back in to the Pi and powered it on.
Here is a "df" output from the Pi
Looks like I am not using the full 64GB of the SD card.
When I first setup the Pi I was using a much smaller SD card and then I bought a decent Sandisk 64GB card and followed some other user guide found online to clone my original smaller card to the new card and expand etc.
So have I actually just backed up the Pi's SD card and all its contents successfully ?
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Yes, almost certainly. But when you cloned your smaller drive, you didn't expand the partition.
You should be able to extend that partition to use more space, or, format it and mount it somewhere else.
Make sense?
C
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Hi thanks for the reply.
I think my original SD card when I first got the Pi was like 8GB max.
I'm not sure which online guide I followed now to clone the SD card and move to the new SanDisk 64GB card as it was some time ago now.
If I expand the partition now then my Win32 Disk Imager backup with be even bigger at 64GB etc.
I have seen some other user guides for backing up a Pi that didn't image the entire SD card and the resulting backup file(s) were much smaller. But those guides look more difficult / involved to follow, with many more steps etc.
So now I am unsure how much space my Pi can currently use?
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@cw-kid a decent imager won't make your backup bigger, i.e. it won't back up the empty space. That being said, do you have some kind of limitation on your backup size? 64G is not exactly big on the current scale of things.
If run df -h it will give you human readable sizes
My reading of that is that it's currently 64G give or take, which is what you'd expect, but I'm not working at my best due to side effects
Do df -h and see what the numbers come up as.
C
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59GB with 5.7G used ?
So why did this Win32 Disk Imager program create a 27.4GB .img file ?
If there is better imager program I should be using? I can swap to using that.
The portable disk I stored the .img backup file on, is large enough to cope with a single .img file of 64GB in size if need be.
Thanks
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Don't forget that you're not looking at discs here. You're looking at partitions and mount points.
What I am seeing is you've got a full 64G SD allocated and mounted to various points in your file system. Most of it is in /root and most of it is unused.As to why you ended up with a 27G backup, I have no idea other than Windows is probably not terribly happy reading Linux file systems and partition info. It was never terribly well supported.
I don't really know many Windows tools these days, being a dyed in the wool BSD / Linux guy.
If you only have Windows, I used to use Acronis (many years back). The other thing you could do is use a live Linux CD and use one of the tools there. Even the terribly basic dd would be able to do it.
I would expect though that a properly functioning tool would create a 7Gish backup file. So yes, something is amiss. Can't tell if that means your backup is non-functional or not, though.
Have you got another SD card? Restore to that, shut the pi down and try and boot from the newly restored card if you need to test.
C
C
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Just to toss another alternative in here, I use Clonezilla for imaging just about everything. It's not very user-friendly; you need to know a bit, like be able to correctly and surely identify which disk (/dev/sda b c d e...) is the source and which is the target, but it's a wrapper for standard tools (partclone, mostly) that do a good job of making filesystem images that back up only the used space. It also automatically grows and shrinks filesystems to new target partitions (if they fit) on restores, etc. You just make a boot CD/DVD or USB stick and off you go. It supports pretty much all filesystem types (msdos, ext2/3/4, ntfs, and of course, raw/unknown), so there's little you can't back up with it. I keep a 1TB M.2 drive in a USB 3.1 enclosure to use as a target for the images and then copy them to my NAS for long-term storage.
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Exactly the kind of tool I'd use (although CCC on the Mac basically means you don't have to) but figured the lack of user friendliness would be a down point here
C
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In Win32DiskImager there is a option for "read only allocated partitions". It is shown in the instruction linked from this thread.
The same instruction also describes how to use Gparted in Linux to resize the .img if so required. -
@archers said in Need help backing up Raspberry Pi:
"read only allocated partitions"
I did not tick that box as you can see in my screen shot above
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@catmanv2 said in Need help backing up Raspberry Pi:
Have you got another SD card? Restore to that
No I haven't. Not the same size anyway.
I think I will buy another SanDisk 64GB SD card and make sure I can actually restore to a new card etc.
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@cw-kid said in Need help backing up Raspberry Pi:
@catmanv2 said in Need help backing up Raspberry Pi:
Have you got another SD card? Restore to that
No I haven't. Not the same size anyway.
I think I will buy another SanDisk 64GB SD card and make sure I can actually restore to a new card etc.
That's a sensible approach anyway.
As for the 'Read only allocated partitions' it seems that Windows struggles to see the Pi partition (other than /boot) as allocated....C
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I have got a USB stick with an Ubuntu desktop Live on it. I could run that up on my laptop instead.
And then maybe use a different tool to do the job.
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You could indeed!
C
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I found these instructions for Linux / Ubuntu here using the dd command. Think I will give that a try.
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Just make sure you get of and if correctC
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If you'd run
dd
on an Ubuntu laptop for images, you might consider installing and runningpartclone
instead. It's the workhouse underlying Clonezilla, and it will produce smaller backup images (it only copies used space; dd copies, all blocks used or not).To make an image of a disk (
/dev/sda2
in this example):partclone -c -o /path/to/image-output -s /dev/sda2
And to restore that image later (same target device):
partclone -r -s /path/to/image-input -O /dev/sda2
Since the images can get very large (and may even grow larger than the filesystem allows), you can compress and split the image like this:
partclone -c -s /dev/sda2 -o - | gzip -c | | split -a 2 -b 2G - /path/to/imagefile.gz.
This will compress the output and split it into 2GB files, each having a '.gz.xx' ending, where xx is a two-letter code that keeps the parts sorted. To restore it:
cat /path/to/imagefile.gz.* | gunzip -c | partclone -r -s - -O /dev/sda2
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A simple to use "cloner" is Balena Etcher - it's gotten me out of trouble many times.
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@black-cat said in Need help backing up Raspberry Pi:
A simple to use "cloner" is Balena Etcher - it's gotten me out of trouble many times.
Mac only, though, isn't it?
C
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No, I use Windows.