Discussion Forum to share and further the development of home control and automation, independent of platforms.

    SmartHome Community

    • Register
    • Login
    • Search
    • Categories
    • Recent
    • Tags
    • Popular
    • Unsolved
    (Last Updated: 30 April 2020)
    • Separate switching bulb in one ceiling light

      P

      Hello guys,

      I would like to achieve two different things with lights, but I am not sure it could be done. I am starting with smart things, and I am far from any electrician knowledge, wo any help is really appreciated.

      I have dumb switches in my hall, controlled from 3 places. I understood that installing one smart module before first switch will make them "hybrid", both smart controlled and dumb controlled.

      I would like to buy ceiling light with two bulb sockets. What I would like to achieve is I would like to have one bulb for normal daily usage (lets say cold white full brightness), and second for night time (aprox from 10pm till morning) with some red/orange - minimum brightness.

      So question are:

      Is there a way to keep both bulbs turning-on separated? So only one will be on during day, and then only second during night?

      And could that be done with pressing dumb switch? What would I need to achieve it? (maybe another module into the ceiling lights)

      Thank you in advance

      General Discussion
    • ChatGPT - finally I can now retyre in piece and quite, knowing everting is in goof hands.

      A

      ChatGPT samples:

      Me:

      Tell me about an iot program called openLuup.

      It:

      OpenLuup is an open source home automation system that is built on the VeraLuup platform. It is designed to be easy to install and configure, and provides users with a powerful and versatile way to control their home automation devices. OpenLuup offers a wide range of features, including support for many popular home automation devices, scheduling, scripting, and integration with other services. OpenLuup is designed to be customizable, allowing users to create their own home automation systems. It is an excellent choice for those looking to create their own home automation system without spending a lot of money.

      Me:

      Write an iot program using openLuup.

      It:

      --openLuup IoT Program-- -- Initialize Variables -- local device_id = "MyHomeDevice" local temperature_sensor_id = "MyTemperatureSensor" local temperature_threshold = 75 -- Create Devices -- luup.create_device("OpenLuup Temperature Sensor", 0, device_id, "D_GenericSensor1.xml", "I_GenericSensor1.xml", "S_TemperatureSensor1.xml", "") luup.variable_set("urn:upnp-org:serviceId:TemperatureSensor1", "CurrentTemperature", 0, device_id) -- Start Timer -- luup.call_delay("check_temperature", 10, "", false) --Function to Check Temperature-- function check_temperature() local current_temperature = luup.variable_get(temperature_sensor_id, "CurrentTemperature", 0) --Check Temperature Threshold-- if current_temperature >= temperature_threshold then --Send Alert-- luup.call_action("urn:micasaverde-com:serviceId:HomeAutomationGateway1", "SendTextMessage", {PhoneNumber="1234567890", Message="ALERT! Temperature exceeded threshold!"}, 0) end --Reset Timer-- luup.call_delay("check_temperature", 10, "", false) end

      Me:

      Write an iot program using openLuup.

      It:

      Write an iot program using openLuup. -- openLuup IOT Program -- -- Variables local lampState = false local lampTime = 0 -- Functions function lampTimer() if lampTime > 0 then lampTime = lampTime - 1 if lampTime == 0 then luup.variable_set('urn:upnp-org:serviceId:SwitchPower1', 'Status', 0, lampDeviceID) lampState = false end end end -- Setup luup.call_delay('lampTimer', 60, 0) -- Main Loop while true do -- Check for motion if luup.variable_get('urn:micasaverde-com:serviceId:MotionSensor1', 'Tripped', motionSensorDeviceID) == '1' then if not lampState then luup.variable_set('urn:upnp-org:serviceId:SwitchPower1', 'Status', 1, lampDeviceID) lampState = true -- Set lamp timer to 5 minutes lampTime = 300 end end luup.sleep(1) end

      What??

      luup.sleep(1)

      Not good - looks like I still have some semblance of a job to fulfill.

      Me:

      An iot program called openLuup was written by akbooer. Who is akbooer?

      It: (note: answer redacted and as I understand it, also incorrect re: AltUI):

      akbooer is the pseudonym of the software developer and home automation enthusiast. He is the creator of the openLuup home automation software, which is an open-source version of the Vera home automation system. He is also the creator of the AltUI graphical user interface for openLuup.

      Me:

      Who created of the AltUI graphical user interface for openLuup.

      and

      Me:

      Who created of the AltUI graphical user interface for the home automation system Vera.

      Names two different people - mmmm.

      Regardless very impressive - give it a few more years.

      General Discussion
    • How to reset kwh

      B

      Aften some testing I watt to clear KWH how ?

      Regards Bjarne

      General Discussion
    • Short survey

      P

      Hi,
      I am a student and recently i am working on smart home project and writing a seminar paper about the way users handle and manage IoT devices. I you have 3 min, please fill below survey. Its really short.
      Thank you in advance, I really appreciate everyone's help.

      General Discussion
    • Need help in finding the right smart switch for my kitchen lights

      M

      Hello,
      I have a kitchen light that can be controlled by two switches, using either to turn it off or on. I have been slowly changing things over to be a smart home but this is the first switch I am attempting to install.
      I am in a double wide modular home (mobile) that was built in 1994.
      At first I thought I would need a 3 way switch but when taking the normal switches apart I realized that was incorrect because the wiring on my switches are different than anything I could find online.
      For one a 3 way smart switch requires 5 wires and there are only 2 wires going into the primary switch with 3 wires going into the secondary switch from the primary switch (at least I think the 3 wires connect the two switches together). Images will be attached of the wiring.
      There are two wires (one black and one white) going into the first switch and 3 wires (black, white, and red) going out of that and into the second switch (I assume). The odd thing is the red wire going to the second switch is connected to the white wire going into the first switch and the white wire going into the second switch seems to be a bridge wire or a traveler wire. Not exactly sure. You will see what I mean in the images.
      I need to know what kind of smart switch I can use in this set up with one remaining a normal switch.
      Note that for some reason the images got switched around when uploading them. The image with 2 wires on one side and 3 on the other is what I think is the primary and the image with just 3 wires is the secondary.
      Primary.jpg Secondary.jpg

      General Discussion
    • OT: Universal Remote

      CatmanV2

      You lot are more likely to have a view than most I know. Our much used Logitech Harmony is (not so) slowly dying.

      And Logitech have discontinued the entire line.

      And no one else appears to be making something similar.

      Was going for a Sofabaton X1, but no numeric keypad. Sofabaton U1, but no favourites.

      Anyone got suggestions?
      Needs to have those features, oh and not be only a phone app.....

      C

      General Discussion
    • The Home Automation Controller Pyramid

      rafale77

      Since one member asked at one point about the "front end" and "back end", I drew this showing the controller from the base to the tip along with what I have found to be the best options from my testing. Almost every controller will try to integrate all elements, especially commercial ones but... they all have strengths and weaknesses so if one can have a medley of the best ones...

      Screen Shot 2020-05-14 at 07.11.06.png

      General Discussion
    • Thread removed - why?

      Black Cat

      I was just going to add my support for a Update Button for the bare bones version of MSR and find the thread has been removed.
      I'm wondering what was so provocative that required it's removal?
      Have we become as paranoid as an owner of another forum?

      Anyway +1 for an Update Button.

      General Discussion
    • 3-way smart switches in separate buildings.

      D

      So, I think I'm in a bit of an unusual situation. I work at a camp & retreat center that has wifi throughout. I want to put a few switches in the office that can control outdoor lighting throughout the camp. We currently have switches in each of the buildings, but it is a particularly frustrating job to get all the lights on in the evening when it is brutally cold out or we are short staffed.

      Most of our staff is not very tech savvy (my boss literally has his wife print out his emails for him each day!!!) so, I'd love to avoid having to set up any sort of raspberry pi or new phone app.

      Is there type of 3-way switch that can connect to the wifi, turn on a light in another building AND turn on an indicator light in the office, without having any sort of wire running between the buildings? Hopefully looking for a simple solution without breaking the bank too.

      I greatly appreciate any input that you can give. Thank you!

      General Discussion
    For those who registered but didn't received the confirmation email, please send an email to support@smarthome.community with the email you used

    Wall Warts AC-DC power supplies tested

    General Discussion
    3
    4
    192
    Loading More Posts
    • Oldest to Newest
    • Newest to Oldest
    • Most Votes
    Reply
    • Reply as topic
    Log in to reply
    This topic has been deleted. Only users with topic management privileges can see it.
    • rafale77
      rafale77 last edited by rafale77

      As most electronic systems, home control/automation appliances are DC powered. We power them either with batteries or what we mistakenly call "AC" pointing to the house plug AC power. My recent discovery that some of these wall warts close proximity to my zwave module can cause RF noise, and the proliferation of these constantly plugged AC-DC converters drove my curiosity to go test a large number of them with whatever equipment I have for RF emissions.
      I am using a simple 50-60Hz AC detector from the hardware store which relies on detection of RF emissions induced by AC current to detect ripple in the DC line. I will be using an RF meter for my next test which will be more sensitive but require more isolation (I have not yet received) from the environment for increased accuracy but for this first post, that's all I have.

      I was quite surprised that across a very large variety of wall warts, all of them emit noise an buzz the AC current detector when I plug the exact same USB cable into them or down the line of the wart:
      Apple iPhone 5W
      Apple iPad 10W
      Apple iPad 12W
      Apple MacBook USB-C PD 29W
      Amazon Echo Dot Gen1
      Amazon Echo Dot Gen2
      Amazon Echo
      Amazon Show Gen1
      Amazon Show Gen2
      Vera (Edge/Plus)
      Amcrest & Foscam IP Cams (I have a large variety of them)
      Philips Hue/Friends of Hue (all of them)
      Logitech Harmony
      A very large set of multi port USB chargers from Amazon branded Anker, iClever, RavPower, Vogek, Aukey. All of them get.
      Microsoft Surface Dock power brick
      Lenovo Wall Wart Designed Laptop 45W USB-C charger
      USB port from all CyberPower UPS (I have 6 models)
      USB port from the white colored APC UPS

      The only lines I have found to not ripple are:
      USB ports from the black colored APC UPS
      Power coming out of all my desktop PCs/Macs and laptops (except for that Surface Dock which I think is the same as the one for the Surface laptop). HP, Dell, Lenovo, Apple.
      Oddly the OEM Microsoft Surface Pro 4 travel charger does not ripple neither on its USB-C or its USB-A Port
      All the USB-C powered laptop chargers (except for the MacBook 29W one)
      Ubiquity Unifi line of products from non POE to POE switch including the USB C power USW Mini, POE injectors for APs.

      I am considering replacing everything I can: For ethernet networked devices, using a POE splitter; for all the others, using 45W USB PD laptop chargers off of eBay to plug into a usb-c PD hub to act as a multiport USB charger. (this came to be negligibly more expensive than a dedicated charger).
      If this measure is a gauge of quality of the AC-DC power supplies, a vast majority of them fail the test... Opinions? Are the USB power specs that loose and how about all those 12V devices?

      Edit:

      An interesting read on the topic, though my results on some of them don't quite match and another site with a database of reviews.

      A dozen USB chargers in the lab: Apple is very good, but not quite the best

      A dozen USB chargers in the lab: Apple is very good, but not quite the best

      When you buy a USB charger, how do you know if you're getting a safe, high-quality charger for your money? You can't tell from the outside...

      Index of tested and reviewed USB power supplies/chargers
      CatmanV2 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • CatmanV2
        CatmanV2 @rafale77 last edited by

        @rafale77 depressing reading. I'm tempted to test my Anker charger but....

        C

        The Ex-Vera abuser know as CatmanV2.....

        1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • akbooer
          akbooer last edited by

          Yes, if I were to build a new house it would have a regulated 12/5V distribution system. There don’t seem to be any widespread standards for plugs & sockets, though. Best practice seems to come from the marine industry. The usual car 'cigarette lighter' approach is certainly not adequate... looks worse than a wall wart!

          1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
          • rafale77
            rafale77 last edited by rafale77

            Disappointed to say that I got another one fail the test with a Lenovo 45W laptop USB-C "Wall wart" style charger.
            Generally speaking, the laptop chargers with a ground prong seem to be better quality, with the microsoft Surface travel charger being the exception. Pretty sad reality that these send enough ripple down the line to trip a $2 AC voltage sensor even without load.

            1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • First post
              Last post

            Welcome. If you’d like to participate in the discussion, rather than just read, then you can join the forum. As a member, you can interact with others here to share your experience and ask the questions you need answered.

            Powered by NodeBB | Contributors
            Hosted freely by PointPub Media Communications Inc. | Contact us