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ChatGPT samples:
Me:
Tell me about an iot program called openLuup.
It:
OpenLuup is an open source home automation system that is built on the VeraLuup platform. It is designed to be easy to install and configure, and provides users with a powerful and versatile way to control their home automation devices. OpenLuup offers a wide range of features, including support for many popular home automation devices, scheduling, scripting, and integration with other services. OpenLuup is designed to be customizable, allowing users to create their own home automation systems. It is an excellent choice for those looking to create their own home automation system without spending a lot of money.
Me:
Write an iot program using openLuup.
It:
--openLuup IoT Program-- -- Initialize Variables -- local device_id = "MyHomeDevice" local temperature_sensor_id = "MyTemperatureSensor" local temperature_threshold = 75 -- Create Devices -- luup.create_device("OpenLuup Temperature Sensor", 0, device_id, "D_GenericSensor1.xml", "I_GenericSensor1.xml", "S_TemperatureSensor1.xml", "") luup.variable_set("urn:upnp-org:serviceId:TemperatureSensor1", "CurrentTemperature", 0, device_id) -- Start Timer -- luup.call_delay("check_temperature", 10, "", false) --Function to Check Temperature-- function check_temperature() local current_temperature = luup.variable_get(temperature_sensor_id, "CurrentTemperature", 0) --Check Temperature Threshold-- if current_temperature >= temperature_threshold then --Send Alert-- luup.call_action("urn:micasaverde-com:serviceId:HomeAutomationGateway1", "SendTextMessage", {PhoneNumber="1234567890", Message="ALERT! Temperature exceeded threshold!"}, 0) end --Reset Timer-- luup.call_delay("check_temperature", 10, "", false) endMe:
Write an iot program using openLuup.
It:
Write an iot program using openLuup. -- openLuup IOT Program -- -- Variables local lampState = false local lampTime = 0 -- Functions function lampTimer() if lampTime > 0 then lampTime = lampTime - 1 if lampTime == 0 then luup.variable_set('urn:upnp-org:serviceId:SwitchPower1', 'Status', 0, lampDeviceID) lampState = false end end end -- Setup luup.call_delay('lampTimer', 60, 0) -- Main Loop while true do -- Check for motion if luup.variable_get('urn:micasaverde-com:serviceId:MotionSensor1', 'Tripped', motionSensorDeviceID) == '1' then if not lampState then luup.variable_set('urn:upnp-org:serviceId:SwitchPower1', 'Status', 1, lampDeviceID) lampState = true -- Set lamp timer to 5 minutes lampTime = 300 end end luup.sleep(1) endWhat??
luup.sleep(1)Not good - looks like I still have some semblance of a job to fulfill.
Me:
An iot program called openLuup was written by akbooer. Who is akbooer?
It: (note: answer redacted and as I understand it, also incorrect re: AltUI):
akbooer is the pseudonym of the software developer and home automation enthusiast. He is the creator of the openLuup home automation software, which is an open-source version of the Vera home automation system. He is also the creator of the AltUI graphical user interface for openLuup.
Me:
Who created of the AltUI graphical user interface for openLuup.
and
Me:
Who created of the AltUI graphical user interface for the home automation system Vera.
Names two different people - mmmm.
Regardless very impressive - give it a few more years.
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Hi,
I am a student and recently i am working on smart home project and writing a seminar paper about the way users handle and manage IoT devices. I you have 3 min, please fill below survey. Its really short.
Thank you in advance, I really appreciate everyone's help. -
For what it's worth, I've been putting the finishing touches on a much-updated version of my DP Apps spreadsheet -- specifically intended for HE users, at least for now -- and invite you all to take a gander http://bit.ly/hedb23 at the PDF one-page version.
Corrections and edits welcome (esp. for the HOMEKIT column, just added yesterday)! Thanks in advance, especially because I'm not a big dashboard user myself, but somehow accepted this role as "keeper of the list" as it were.
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Hello guys,
I would like to achieve two different things with lights, but I am not sure it could be done. I am starting with smart things, and I am far from any electrician knowledge, wo any help is really appreciated.
I have dumb switches in my hall, controlled from 3 places. I understood that installing one smart module before first switch will make them "hybrid", both smart controlled and dumb controlled.
I would like to buy ceiling light with two bulb sockets. What I would like to achieve is I would like to have one bulb for normal daily usage (lets say cold white full brightness), and second for night time (aprox from 10pm till morning) with some red/orange - minimum brightness.
So question are:
Is there a way to keep both bulbs turning-on separated? So only one will be on during day, and then only second during night?
And could that be done with pressing dumb switch? What would I need to achieve it? (maybe another module into the ceiling lights)
Thank you in advance
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Aften some testing I watt to clear KWH how ?
Regards Bjarne
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Hello,
I have a kitchen light that can be controlled by two switches, using either to turn it off or on. I have been slowly changing things over to be a smart home but this is the first switch I am attempting to install.
I am in a double wide modular home (mobile) that was built in 1994.
At first I thought I would need a 3 way switch but when taking the normal switches apart I realized that was incorrect because the wiring on my switches are different than anything I could find online.
For one a 3 way smart switch requires 5 wires and there are only 2 wires going into the primary switch with 3 wires going into the secondary switch from the primary switch (at least I think the 3 wires connect the two switches together). Images will be attached of the wiring.
There are two wires (one black and one white) going into the first switch and 3 wires (black, white, and red) going out of that and into the second switch (I assume). The odd thing is the red wire going to the second switch is connected to the white wire going into the first switch and the white wire going into the second switch seems to be a bridge wire or a traveler wire. Not exactly sure. You will see what I mean in the images.
I need to know what kind of smart switch I can use in this set up with one remaining a normal switch.
Note that for some reason the images got switched around when uploading them. The image with 2 wires on one side and 3 on the other is what I think is the primary and the image with just 3 wires is the secondary.
Primary.jpg Secondary.jpg -
You lot are more likely to have a view than most I know. Our much used Logitech Harmony is (not so) slowly dying.
And Logitech have discontinued the entire line.
And no one else appears to be making something similar.
Was going for a Sofabaton X1, but no numeric keypad. Sofabaton U1, but no favourites.
Anyone got suggestions?
Needs to have those features, oh and not be only a phone app.....C
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Since one member asked at one point about the "front end" and "back end", I drew this showing the controller from the base to the tip along with what I have found to be the best options from my testing. Almost every controller will try to integrate all elements, especially commercial ones but... they all have strengths and weaknesses so if one can have a medley of the best ones...
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I was just going to add my support for a Update Button for the bare bones version of MSR and find the thread has been removed.
I'm wondering what was so provocative that required it's removal?
Have we become as paranoid as an owner of another forum?Anyway +1 for an Update Button.
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So, I think I'm in a bit of an unusual situation. I work at a camp & retreat center that has wifi throughout. I want to put a few switches in the office that can control outdoor lighting throughout the camp. We currently have switches in each of the buildings, but it is a particularly frustrating job to get all the lights on in the evening when it is brutally cold out or we are short staffed.
Most of our staff is not very tech savvy (my boss literally has his wife print out his emails for him each day!!!) so, I'd love to avoid having to set up any sort of raspberry pi or new phone app.
Is there type of 3-way switch that can connect to the wifi, turn on a light in another building AND turn on an indicator light in the office, without having any sort of wire running between the buildings? Hopefully looking for a simple solution without breaking the bank too.
I greatly appreciate any input that you can give. Thank you!
I'm bored :D
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What are the projects you're working on?
Summer is over, and that (unfortunately) means more time indoor and (luckily) more time to build things.
I have almost nothing in my backlog and it's boring
I appreciate a couple of (crazy) ideas.
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For me I just removed the vera which I used as pure ser2net device for zigbee and replaced it with a conbee 2 stick. The idea is first to consolidate my 2 zigbee network and get rid of the philips hue 2 hub which would enable me to have only 1 zigbee mesh. If this is successful then I would work on bypassing home assistant for zigbee network control and bridge openLuup into deconz.
If you really want a big project, you could look at doing deep neural video processing. This is a very large topic I invested a couple of months on and enabled me to replace video movement detection with specific object detections along with facial recognition. All done locally of course. Coding is done in C or Python. I know that C is right down your alley!
A little further down the road I am thinking about replacing all my amazon echo with a local version likely based on Rhasppy when that project gets a little bit more mature and I find the time and courage to make the jump.
Other than that, everything just works... I have had no need to touch or tinker with anything...
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My once four, then three, and recently only two-Vera home system is now down to one, with Vera hosting my beloved four-button MiniMote hand Controllers, a few lights, and a couple of meter readers. About to clone this to a UZB and see how that goes. Shelly now doing some switches, lights, and timed thermostats.
I really need a replacement (WiFi) for the MiniMotes, but don’t see anything suitable. May have to make my own (3D printer anyone?)
Other than that, the Prolog-based plugin for openLuup HA logic is coming along very slowly.
Not doing anything right now, though, since we have a power outage (internet runs on UPS.)
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I invested in a 3D Printer...eventually.
Turns out there not that expensive after all. +1 to a Ender V2. Easy to put together and great youtube support.
The hardest part has been learning CAD- Autodesk, probably should say the most frustrating part, but now fairly conversant and can design complex designs.
That was my winter, now we are looking at Spring & Summer and the end of lockdown.
The EnderV2 is turning out adapters and wall brackets, quality is better than good and is merchantable. -
The problem may be that we are all caught in liminal time due to COVID.
I had thought I would get the Sonos system to issues voice commands to Alexa but I'm not sure what the point would be, except for some idle amusement.
Something else I would like to know; how to calculate the R value (insulation effectiveness) of our house (metric units only please). It seems to me that when you get a step change in the outside weather, which can be a significant step change where I live. Then the inside temperature decays exponentially to meet the new outside temperature. Depending on the R value of the house the decay will be rapid (poor insulation) or slow (good insulation). Any idea how to calculate the R value, given the outside temp step change delta and the inside temperature change that results after x time? A few points: assumes the outside weather changes abruptly. No heat sources inside the house or though windows. Convection of heat may affect results.
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Lately, I've
- built an integration with SmartBot push buttons (with retry, ack and battery and status report back to luup)
- bought a Kuando BusyLight and integrated into my routine (so, when I'm on a call, it automatically turns to red)
- built an app with integrated notifications on my home PC (dark, entryways, etc) via MQTT.
- built a couple of new wifi-based sensors (light, temp, humidity and distance)
- finished my tablet dashboard
- built a system to track electrical consumption, in preparation for solar
- built a new system to rotate my exterior color lights (milight+hue)
@rafale I'll probably do some image recognition for the cams (I did for a customer, but it was in cloud) and a couple of more sensors.
@akbooer finding a wifi remote is not easy. because wifi isn't really suited for battery operated devices.
@a-lurker summer here in South Italy wasn't bad as I was expecting. we managed to do very good, even if cases are rising again lately. I never got so much spare time for sure, since I used to travel a lot for work (and pleasure) and I'm at home, beach excluded, since my last vacation in Miami+Bahamas in February. I have voice enabled announcements via Alexa and my wife loves them. I have a good insulated house (very new), but I'm not sure it'd be easy to do.
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On a mission to automate everything. -
@therealdb said in I'm bored
:because wifi isn't really suited for battery operated devices.
Indeed so. Curiously, this was the promise of ZWave - that is was low power. Ironic, then, then many of the major failings of Zwave (certainly in the Vera world) were based around battery devices (polling, or not, etc.)
There are low power WiFi devices and (single) buttons, but truly hard to find anything more capable. Maybe that's the one things that will keep my Zwave system going (albeit on ZWay, not on Vera.)
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I would not confuse the vera failures with zwave failures. Battery operated devices operate brilliantly with zwave. Vera's problem was around the background "maintenance" they thought was going to make user configuration easier. It just made it a complete nightmare.
There are now cheap low powered wifi devices but... I would still prefer not to mix up low bandwidth network for home automation with the high bandwidth of wifi as it will (at least until full wifi6 implementation is effective) eat up wifi bandwidth. It is more of a scalability issue than anything else. Once you start having a lot of devices, the wifi band airtime will start getting congested which is why for these types of appliances, I try to avoid wifi. The amount of wifi channels is also very limited as the trend is to broaden channels to allow more per device bandwidth and to also to use more and more channels to support more devices simultaneously...
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This winter I will work on my project to get small ESP sensor connected to a RPi to warn me if the plans needs some water, in planning for several years. I will also as @therealdb work with the tablet dashboards- And integrate some electronics into my Millenium-Falcon, Tie-fighter models. (Yes, I'm still married)
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Finally fixed Mrs C's iPhone locator. Adding some more logic now we're actually going out of the house (for a while)
What I'm toying with now is some ideas for
a) Smart shower (assuming I get another job that means I need to get up and get in the shower)
b) IR control for scene setting per my old Philips Pronto and (to a lesser extent) my Harmony. The Harmony hub is the obvs choice, and given my Harmony One is on its last legs this may be first.C
