I currently have an HVAC system in the attic - for heating and A/C. 120v is supplied to the unit to run the gas heating. A/C uses 240v. I have an ecobee thermostat...which sometimes goes offline....not often. When it goes offline, I need to turn the 120v power to the HVAC system off and then back on (the ecobee gets its power from the HVAC system). That resets the ecobee and all is fine. I spend the summer away from this house and if the ecobee goes offine..I have no current method to reset the HVAC 120v power remotely. My idea is to replace the current 120v plug in the attic with a smart plug...then I can remotely turn the 120v power off and the ecobee will reset and come back online. I use Wyze and Lutron Casita in the house currently and was hoping I could find an in-wall smart plug from Wyze or Lutron. Obviously, I don't need diming, etc...just the ability to turn the plug power on/off. I've seen some options...but one problem I have is the attic can reach up to 135F in the summer...many of the smart plugs I've seen are not rated for that temperature. Might any of you have any thoughts on a smart plug I might want to look at? I don't want to invest in anything that would require a new hub - so either WiFi based or Casita HUB based. I need 120v and 15amp ratings. Thanks in advance.
I am trying to run a reaction that turns on lights if a sensor has not been tripped for 2 minutes. Basically, when a garage door is open, turn on inside lights if nothing has been sensed for 2 minutes. My question has to do with the expression/variable for "Last Seen". The variable never gets updated over time since the last seen event never changes.
Screenshot 2024-09-02 191632.png
In the screenshot above, the reaction checks for any garage door as well as the variable called "GarageLastEntry". The expression for this variable is displayed below:
Screenshot 2024-09-02 191651.png
The problem that I am experiencing is that the variable never changes over time. I understand that this is because the "last seen" variable does not change over time when there is no activity. In this screenshot, the value shows 0.029... This can also be seen as the current value in the original reaction screenshot above. After 10 minutes, this value should be 10. However, when a garage door is opened, the variable does not get updated and thus the rule does not become true since .029 is less than 2.
When I go to the variable and click on the > icon, the variable then gets updated as expected as seen below:
Screenshot 2024-09-02 191711.png
So the ultimate question is, how do I use a rule that can use a variable such as "last seen"? Do I need to create another variable or reaction that multiplies this by 1 every minute? From what I read in the manual, a variable is evaluated every time it is included in a reaction. But this is not what I am seeing.
I also want to ask another question related to this variable. It seems like Reactor continuously deletes this variable and I have to keep recreating it? I have never experienced this with MSR so wanted to ask if this is a common problem or if my definition is causing this.
Any info is appreciated!!!
BACKGROUND
I have been using 4 x Yale Contactless Connected Door Locks for several years (they use either a rfid tag or code to enter)
I have also been using 1 x Yale L1 Door Lock on the main front door and this connects via Yale Software
Yale contacted me to advise the L1 Lock software was being withdrawn and I needed to install a Yale Access Module into the existing lock and a Wi-Fi Bridge to link it with the newly released software
ALL of the above was working just fine.
RECENT
Yale emailed to advise I should add a Yale Access Module to each of the 4 other locks as this would link with the updated software via the Wi-Fi Bridge.
They offered a deal of just £4 each for these Modules so I got them.
THE PROBLEM
I found that only 2 of these modules would slot easily into the locks - two of them bent the pins and one of those snapped the female part in a lock (I do have a spare lock but thats not the point).
Anyway, I began to set-up the two fitted Modules with the Wi-Fi Bridge and I eventually found (thanks Google, NOT Yale) that I now need 1 x Wi-Fi Bridge PER LOCK (£50 each).
QUESTION
Does anyone know of a compatible Wi-Fi Bridge which works with Yale AND can handle multiple connections (ie 5 all 5 of my locks) ?
THANK YOU
Hello,
I had an iCOMEN boiler switch that worked for many years. And I used iCOMEN app on my phone to manage it. Short time ago app started to have an error message that it cannot connect to the server, and after some time the device also stopped working.
Some of you may know that I took at shot at building an alternate geofencing solution for Vera. The core of it was system agnostic, using the OwnTracks application and AWS lambdas to track devices and keep a central data, then disseminate that to the Vera via a websocket-based plugin. It worked with other apps as well, including Tasker and GPSLogger, but of the dozen people that were testing it, most used OwnTracks.
A lot was learned in the process, not the least of which is that the success of any such solution is highly dependent on the phone and its settings. Phone manufacturers love to set things up for the longest battery life, of course, but that's usually very anti-geofencing behavior. In the case of at least one brand, it was unusable and the settings could not be modified. It was also cost-prohibitive to maintain on Amazon, as AWS grabs a dime here and a dollar there and before you know it, it added $100/month to my AWS bill, which my wife deducted from my Scotch budget. Unacceptable.
But it's quite reasonable to use OwnTracks to a local endpoint, and I could pretty easily replicate the functionality as a local application, or maybe even as an additional endpoint built into MSR's API (still separate port and process, but in the package).
So the question really is... would you do it, or would you be too concerned about the security risks associated (e.g., dynamic DNS and NAT mapping in the firewall necessary for the phone to contact the service when not on LAN)?
Hello forum instigators.
Not sure who host/runs the forum software but a couple of challenges:
The chat is not currently usable, as the scrolling is all not right and it's not possible to read chats or send chats reliably.
There are a lot of female members that should perhaps be on another forum; where they can advertise their skills more appropriately. Note: I agree it's a job, like any other.
Whoever you are - thank you for your invaluable work.
I run a B&B and am looking for a way to turn the lights off whenever a room is unoccupied for X amount of time. The guest should still be able to turn the lights on and off manually, but should not be able to disable the auto turn off feature if the room is unoccupied.
I guess I am looking for a light switch with a built in presence sensor? I guess a presence sensor would be better as if it is a motion sensor, the lights may go off unwanted if the guest fails to make sufficient movement e.g. if the guest is lying down watching a film.
Are there any products on the market that would work for my application?
Hello,
I am in search of a device capable of using Bluetooth to connect with a smartphone and serve as its primary sound source on demand. This device should function similarly to conventional Bluetooth headphones, which automatically become the phone's sound output upon activation. However, this device should differ in that it transmits the audio signal to an amplifier via a jack, SPDIF, or similar connection. Alternatively, it could be an integrated amplifier that directly sends the signal to passive speakers.
The control of this process should be manageable through an API such as MQTT, REST, MODBUS, or similar. Are you aware of any devices that operate in this manner?
The concept is as follows: upon entering the bathroom, I would press a wall-mounted switch. This switch would send a signal to the Bluetooth device, prompting it to connect to my smartphone and seamlessly continue playing the audiobook I am currently listening to. Instead of using the phone's speakers, it would seamlessly start playing through ceiling-mounted speakers.
Many thanks 🙂
Hi folks,
I currently have some cheap Zigbee hub and some Amazon Alexas running my smart home which mostly consists of Zigbee power strips and Zigbee battery powered switches.
It all worked OK originally, but now whenever I press a Zigbee switch the light in the corresponding plug switches on then immediately off again.
If I ask Alexa to turn the light on it works fine. Likewise if I switch it on from my phone.
Any ideas what the issue could be?
I've tried unplugging the hub a number of times but that doesn't seem to fix it.
I was thinking about getting a Homey Pro 2023 to speed things up (tmas the Zigbee hub seems to be really slow now as well, for some reason) but I'm not sure about that either.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated!
Looking for a recommendation:
Locksmith is trying to talk me into the Yale Assure Lock Touchscreen with Wi-Fi and Bluetooth - the original 1st generation because they said it's built better than the Assure Lock 2. Any thoughts on this? Which would you recommend?
I see Mul T Lock makes a cylinder (KW-KIDYRL) for Yale Smart Locks. Would this fit the 1st gen Assure Lock, as well as Assure Lock 2? Has anyone tried replacing the cylinder with this on either lock?
Other smart lock I was considering is the Schlage Encode Plus.
Thanks!
Hi. So when I had my house build I ran a bunch of stuff, one of which being two pairs of speaker wires to each bedroom and to 4 spots around my living room… Over the years I have used them here and there with different success.. But today they sit in my walls just unused.
I converted all the cat6 or 5e (I don’t remember) over to basically eithernet jacks. The cable coaxial well it’s there but now unused. But I was thinking there has got to be some use for two pairs of speaker wires to each room. Can I make them usb plugs? Not sure so looking for ideas.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this.
Kevin
Hey guys...
We are replacing the heat pump and furnace this week and I will also need to replace my nest thermostat at the same time 'cause Nest is ending the cloud thing end of the month.
Anyway, I'm looking to use the
That's what the heat pump installer recommend BUT, using Nest I was also using it to control the home humidifier using a single wire connected to nest... but no low voltage thermostat is able to do that, I checked all of them...
So I need some help on how I can do that, to connect the home humidifier using zwave also....
Hi
We are looking for a solution where we can detect presence of a «thing» (people , car , dog, cat, and more..
We need:
fast detections, 1-3 seconds in range from 0 to 20 m from «base» fysical «client» , chip , transmitter , unit. base , receiver placed at a door, gate, house, etc uniq Identifying wirelessThe client:
no need for pressing any thing (no buttons) battery , hoply 2-5 years battery time.Have someone done anything like this?
What technologi will be best?
Hey everyone, I'm currently working on developing a bed sensor that can detect when you're out of bed. It could be used to trigger other smart home gadgets, like lights or blinds, temperature etc.
The sensors are placed under the legs of your bed post. Should look and feel like "smart furniture pads" with size 2 inches in diameter and 1/4 inch thick.
Before we go any further, I'd love to get your thoughts on this - would a bed sensor like this be something you'd find useful? We're still in the early stages of development, so any feedback you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
@DesT, fenced code blocks display differently after the upgrade.
abc defThe above should display as abc and def on two separate lines. This works. But this fails:
verbose: true config: data: "auto"The above should display as three lines, verbose: true, config: and data: "auto", but this fails. In order to make it display properly, I now have to open the fenced code block with ```text (specify language, generic text). This displays without highlighting. The words yml and yaml (and the all-caps versions) don't seem to be recognized. I can also use js to get JavaScript highlighting, but this isn't great for YAML. Here's the same block with the language (text) specifier added (no other changes):
verbose: true config: data: "auto"Sure, we can start adding language specifiers to our new posts, but I suspect if we start digging around old posts, we're going to find a lot of broken display of the fenced code blocks (plain ``` at the start with no language specifier) in the thousands of old posts in these forums, upon which people still rely for answers and information.
Log file snippets also get similarly brutalized:
[###BUILDVERSION###]2023-04-26T19:41:51.683Z <ZWaveJSController:NOTICE> ZWaveJSController#zwavejs added file logger to zwavejs.log [###BUILDVERSION###]2023-04-26T19:41:51.747Z <ZWaveJSController:WARN> zwavejs_capabilities defines x_zwave_device_cfg, which is not consistent with the recommended naming [###BUILDVERSION###]2023-04-26T19:41:51.747Z <ZWaveJSController:WARN> zwavejs_capabilities defines x_zwave_mfg_spec, which is not consistent with the recommended naming [###BUILDVERSION###]2023-04-26T19:41:51.747Z <ZWaveJSController:WARN> zwavejs_capabilities defines x_zwave_device_ver, which is not consistent with the recommended naming [###BUILDVERSION###]2023-04-26T19:41:51.747Z <ZWaveJSController:WARN> zwavejs_capabilities defines x_zwave_values, which is not consistent with the recommended naming [###BUILDVERSION###]2023-04-26T19:41:51.837Z <ZWaveJSController:INFO> ZWaveJSController#zwavejs connecting to ws://192.168.0.10:3000 [###BUILDVERSION###]2023-04-26T19:41:51.874Z <ZWaveJSController:NOTICE> ZWaveJSController#zwavejs connected [###BUILDVERSION###]2023-04-26T19:41:51.874Z <ZWaveJSController:INFO> ZWaveJSController#zwavejs sending connection initialization [###BUILDVERSION###]2023-04-26T19:41:51.931Z <ZWaveJSController:INFO> ZWaveJSController#zwavejs greeting from server: [Object]{ "type": "version", "driverVersion": "10.16.0", "serverVersion": "1.28.0", "homeId": 3631280043, "minSchemaVersion": 0, "maxSchemaVersion": 28 } [###BUILDVERSION###]2023-04-26T19:41:51.932Z <ZWaveJSController:INFO> ZWaveJSController#zwavejs performing initial inventory [###BUILDVERSION###]2023-04-26T19:41:52.325Z <ZWaveJSController:INFO> ZWaveJSController#zwavejs manufacturer-specific data for 134 (AEON Labs) from package ver 22315.1 [###BUILDVERSION###]2023-04-26T19:41:52.328Z <ZWaveJSController:INFO> ZWaveJSController#zwavejs configuring node 1 endpoint 0 (entity "1-0") [###BUILDVERSION###]2023-04-26T19:41:52.339Z <ZWaveJSController:INFO> ZWaveJSController#zwavejs manufacturer-specific data for 543 (Elexa Consumer Products Inc.)I think this is going to be a problem. Is there a way in NodeBB to configure the default language for fenced code block markdown for the entire forum so that these display more as they did before the upgrade?
EDIT: Examples below of old posts with corrupt formatting now:
https://smarthome.community/topic/1101/dynamic-groups-controller-filter-expressions
https://smarthome.community/post/11362
This last old post is interesting, because the first block displays incorrectly, but the second block is OK. In playing around, there seem to be triggering character sequences, suggesting that the markdown processor is trying to "guess" the language but not getting it right, perhaps:
Can anyone help with the MIOS UI5 weblink? Not the getvera one.
Still running UI5 on a couple of sensors & lights and need to tweak PLEG but for the life of me I can't remember the link to tunnel back to the trusty machine....
The wifi on my router is turned off, and wifi around the house is provided using a mesh - 3 units altogether (one connected directly to the router) that are spread around the house.
I would like to start automating certain tasks around the house and intend to try adding a few smart sockets to my setup.
The mesh system I have supports both 2.4GHz and 5GHz, and does not provide me with the option to control them - i.e. turn one or both on/off, give each a different SSID, etc.
The devices I wish to purchase/use only support 2.4GHz.
Will turning the mesh units off and temporarily turning the 2.4GHz wifi on the router to allow me to set them up be enough? Will I then be able to return to my usual setup and everything will work as it should?
Many thanks in advance
ChatGPT samples:
Me:
Tell me about an iot program called openLuup.
It:
OpenLuup is an open source home automation system that is built on the VeraLuup platform. It is designed to be easy to install and configure, and provides users with a powerful and versatile way to control their home automation devices. OpenLuup offers a wide range of features, including support for many popular home automation devices, scheduling, scripting, and integration with other services. OpenLuup is designed to be customizable, allowing users to create their own home automation systems. It is an excellent choice for those looking to create their own home automation system without spending a lot of money.
Me:
Write an iot program using openLuup.
It:
--openLuup IoT Program-- -- Initialize Variables -- local device_id = "MyHomeDevice" local temperature_sensor_id = "MyTemperatureSensor" local temperature_threshold = 75 -- Create Devices -- luup.create_device("OpenLuup Temperature Sensor", 0, device_id, "D_GenericSensor1.xml", "I_GenericSensor1.xml", "S_TemperatureSensor1.xml", "") luup.variable_set("urn:upnp-org:serviceId:TemperatureSensor1", "CurrentTemperature", 0, device_id) -- Start Timer -- luup.call_delay("check_temperature", 10, "", false) --Function to Check Temperature-- function check_temperature() local current_temperature = luup.variable_get(temperature_sensor_id, "CurrentTemperature", 0) --Check Temperature Threshold-- if current_temperature >= temperature_threshold then --Send Alert-- luup.call_action("urn:micasaverde-com:serviceId:HomeAutomationGateway1", "SendTextMessage", {PhoneNumber="1234567890", Message="ALERT! Temperature exceeded threshold!"}, 0) end --Reset Timer-- luup.call_delay("check_temperature", 10, "", false) endMe:
Write an iot program using openLuup.
It:
Write an iot program using openLuup. -- openLuup IOT Program -- -- Variables local lampState = false local lampTime = 0 -- Functions function lampTimer() if lampTime > 0 then lampTime = lampTime - 1 if lampTime == 0 then luup.variable_set('urn:upnp-org:serviceId:SwitchPower1', 'Status', 0, lampDeviceID) lampState = false end end end -- Setup luup.call_delay('lampTimer', 60, 0) -- Main Loop while true do -- Check for motion if luup.variable_get('urn:micasaverde-com:serviceId:MotionSensor1', 'Tripped', motionSensorDeviceID) == '1' then if not lampState then luup.variable_set('urn:upnp-org:serviceId:SwitchPower1', 'Status', 1, lampDeviceID) lampState = true -- Set lamp timer to 5 minutes lampTime = 300 end end luup.sleep(1) endWhat??
luup.sleep(1)Not good - looks like I still have some semblance of a job to fulfill.
Me:
An iot program called openLuup was written by akbooer. Who is akbooer?
It: (note: answer redacted and as I understand it, also incorrect re: AltUI):
akbooer is the pseudonym of the software developer and home automation enthusiast. He is the creator of the openLuup home automation software, which is an open-source version of the Vera home automation system. He is also the creator of the AltUI graphical user interface for openLuup.
Me:
Who created of the AltUI graphical user interface for openLuup.
and
Me:
Who created of the AltUI graphical user interface for the home automation system Vera.
Names two different people - mmmm.
Regardless very impressive - give it a few more years.
I'm bored :D
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For me I just removed the vera which I used as pure ser2net device for zigbee and replaced it with a conbee 2 stick. The idea is first to consolidate my 2 zigbee network and get rid of the philips hue 2 hub which would enable me to have only 1 zigbee mesh. If this is successful then I would work on bypassing home assistant for zigbee network control and bridge openLuup into deconz.
If you really want a big project, you could look at doing deep neural video processing. This is a very large topic I invested a couple of months on and enabled me to replace video movement detection with specific object detections along with facial recognition. All done locally of course. Coding is done in C or Python. I know that C is right down your alley!
A little further down the road I am thinking about replacing all my amazon echo with a local version likely based on Rhasppy when that project gets a little bit more mature and I find the time and courage to make the jump.
Other than that, everything just works... I have had no need to touch or tinker with anything...
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My once four, then three, and recently only two-Vera home system is now down to one, with Vera hosting my beloved four-button MiniMote hand Controllers, a few lights, and a couple of meter readers. About to clone this to a UZB and see how that goes. Shelly now doing some switches, lights, and timed thermostats.
I really need a replacement (WiFi) for the MiniMotes, but don’t see anything suitable. May have to make my own (3D printer anyone?)
Other than that, the Prolog-based plugin for openLuup HA logic is coming along very slowly.
Not doing anything right now, though, since we have a power outage (internet runs on UPS.)
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I invested in a 3D Printer...eventually.
Turns out there not that expensive after all. +1 to a Ender V2. Easy to put together and great youtube support.
The hardest part has been learning CAD- Autodesk, probably should say the most frustrating part, but now fairly conversant and can design complex designs.
That was my winter, now we are looking at Spring & Summer and the end of lockdown.
The EnderV2 is turning out adapters and wall brackets, quality is better than good and is merchantable. -
The problem may be that we are all caught in liminal time due to COVID.
I had thought I would get the Sonos system to issues voice commands to Alexa but I'm not sure what the point would be, except for some idle amusement.
Something else I would like to know; how to calculate the R value (insulation effectiveness) of our house (metric units only please). It seems to me that when you get a step change in the outside weather, which can be a significant step change where I live. Then the inside temperature decays exponentially to meet the new outside temperature. Depending on the R value of the house the decay will be rapid (poor insulation) or slow (good insulation). Any idea how to calculate the R value, given the outside temp step change delta and the inside temperature change that results after x time? A few points: assumes the outside weather changes abruptly. No heat sources inside the house or though windows. Convection of heat may affect results.
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Lately, I've
- built an integration with SmartBot push buttons (with retry, ack and battery and status report back to luup)
- bought a Kuando BusyLight and integrated into my routine (so, when I'm on a call, it automatically turns to red)
- built an app with integrated notifications on my home PC (dark, entryways, etc) via MQTT.
- built a couple of new wifi-based sensors (light, temp, humidity and distance)
- finished my tablet dashboard
- built a system to track electrical consumption, in preparation for solar
- built a new system to rotate my exterior color lights (milight+hue)
@rafale I'll probably do some image recognition for the cams (I did for a customer, but it was in cloud) and a couple of more sensors.
@akbooer finding a wifi remote is not easy. because wifi isn't really suited for battery operated devices.
@a-lurker summer here in South Italy wasn't bad as I was expecting. we managed to do very good, even if cases are rising again lately. I never got so much spare time for sure, since I used to travel a lot for work (and pleasure) and I'm at home, beach excluded, since my last vacation in Miami+Bahamas in February. I have voice enabled announcements via Alexa and my wife loves them. I have a good insulated house (very new), but I'm not sure it'd be easy to do.
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@therealdb said in I'm bored
:because wifi isn't really suited for battery operated devices.
Indeed so. Curiously, this was the promise of ZWave - that is was low power. Ironic, then, then many of the major failings of Zwave (certainly in the Vera world) were based around battery devices (polling, or not, etc.)
There are low power WiFi devices and (single) buttons, but truly hard to find anything more capable. Maybe that's the one things that will keep my Zwave system going (albeit on ZWay, not on Vera.)
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I would not confuse the vera failures with zwave failures. Battery operated devices operate brilliantly with zwave. Vera's problem was around the background "maintenance" they thought was going to make user configuration easier. It just made it a complete nightmare.
There are now cheap low powered wifi devices but... I would still prefer not to mix up low bandwidth network for home automation with the high bandwidth of wifi as it will (at least until full wifi6 implementation is effective) eat up wifi bandwidth. It is more of a scalability issue than anything else. Once you start having a lot of devices, the wifi band airtime will start getting congested which is why for these types of appliances, I try to avoid wifi. The amount of wifi channels is also very limited as the trend is to broaden channels to allow more per device bandwidth and to also to use more and more channels to support more devices simultaneously...
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This winter I will work on my project to get small ESP sensor connected to a RPi to warn me if the plans needs some water, in planning for several years. I will also as @therealdb work with the tablet dashboards- And integrate some electronics into my Millenium-Falcon, Tie-fighter models. (Yes, I'm still married)
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Finally fixed Mrs C's iPhone locator. Adding some more logic now we're actually going out of the house (for a while)
What I'm toying with now is some ideas for
a) Smart shower (assuming I get another job that means I need to get up and get in the shower)
b) IR control for scene setting per my old Philips Pronto and (to a lesser extent) my Harmony. The Harmony hub is the obvs choice, and given my Harmony One is on its last legs this may be first.C
